East Bridgewater Dahlia Cardens ]. K. Alexander , East Bridgewater , Massachusetts 
Dahlias should be harvested shortly after their 
foliage has been killed by frost. I find from ex¬ 
perience that as soon as the frost kills the foliage 
the strength of the stalk recedes back into the 
bulbs. If they are not harvested shortly, each 
bulb sends forth a sprout which becomes a shoot, 
and if left sufficiently long, a stalk. As there is 
danger of severe frost any time after the first 
frost, no matter how long left, it can never grow 
long enough to reach maturity and blossom before 
being killed. This sprout or shoot is new, brittle 
growth, not hard and woody like the stalks. 
When the clumps are harvested, if the sprout is 
only two or three inches long, it is generally left 
to remain, if a foot or so long is cut off, the same 
as the stalk; in either case this new and brittle 
growth lacking substance, and not having suffi¬ 
cient substance to carry it through the winter, 
commences to decay, oftentimes causing the whole 
clump to decay. However the case, the plant life 
and vitality required to grow this is wasted, be¬ 
cause it is taken from the clump. This same life 
and vitality should be used in the spring, when 
it would be ten times as valuable. By digging 
two or three days after your plant has been killed 
by frost, your clumps are in a perfectly dormant 
condition; having no sprouts, and keeping per¬ 
fectly all winter, sending forth sprouts in the 
spring, which is the proper time. 
Dahlias may be dug with fork, spade or plow. 
In digging or harvesting the clump, great care 
should be taken, dig them, and dig very care¬ 
fully, do not pull them up. You have a large 
cluster of bulbs or clump; each bulb has a neck, 
which is the small portion between the bulb and 
where it joins the stalk. The clump should be dug 
or lifted carefully, so not to break the necks of 
the bulbs; if you crack, girdle, or break a neck, 
sometimes they will dry up, other times decay; 
however, when the clump is divided, the bulb with 
a broken neck is weak and not as good, and re¬ 
quires longer for the bulb to become established 
before they commence to grow after they are 
planted in the ground. After removing the clump, 
shake gently to remove what soil 
that would naturally fall off. Cut 
off top within two or three inches 
above top of clump ; allowing them 
exposed to the sun and air for only 
an hour or two. Do not allow them 
to stay out two or three days to dry 
up, then wonder why they are with¬ 
ered and fail to sprout. Pack in a 
cool, frost-proof place, where ex¬ 
tremes in temperature may be avoid¬ 
ed, a place having an average tem¬ 
perature of about 45 degrees. Do 
not cover, or pack in any material 
or with any substance; cork, saw¬ 
dust, shavings, coal ashes, sand or 
earth, all hold and retain a damp¬ 
ness or moisture, something un¬ 
natural ; are too close, compact and 
damp, causing them to start, to 
mildew, or to decay. Would you 
pack your potatoes in any of the 
above ? Simply pack clumps one- 
top-of-the-other, placing each clump 
upside down. Undoubtedly you are 
aware that the Dahlia stalk is hol¬ 
low and that this hollow contains a 
watery substance or acid. If you 
pack your clumps with the stalk up, 
the acid will flow back into the 
crown of the clump, causing decay; 
whereas, if you turn your clumps 
upside down the acid must flow out, 
and clump will remain in a per¬ 
fectly dormant condition. Pack 
clumps upside down, in boxes or 
barrels, packing one-top-of-the-other. 
Dahlias in an old-fashioned cellar 
will keep first-class without any 
covering; in a cellar having a ce¬ 
ment bottom, or heat, the boxes or 
barrels should be lined with heavy paper, and 
covered with paper or burlap. Covering with 
paper or burlap excludes the air and preserves a 
more even temperature. In heated places the cir¬ 
culation of air, and heat, causes the bulbs to 
shrivel and dry up; a covering of this kind pre¬ 
vents the roots from shriveling. 
DIVISION OF CLUMPS. Although I divide 
clumps all winter, it is because of the number of 
clumps I have to divide; I recommend that the 
amateur wait until spring before dividing. Dahlias 
keep during the winter much better in clump form. 
In the spring the clumps commence to send out 
sprouts, which aid in dividing properly. Divide, 
using a sharp knife. Separate, leaving each bulb 
separately, first dividing the clump in half, then 
divide to one bulb. Plant only one bulb in a hill; 
never plant more than two bulbs. In dividing, 
great care should be taken, and a portion of. the 
crown or stalk should be left on each bulb; it is 
on the crown that the sprotit starts, and if the 
bulb has no crown, the bulb is worthless. 
SIZE OF BULBS. The size of the bulb or tuber 
does not in any way designate the size or quality 
of the flower. Some varieties of Dahlias always 
produce very small bulbs, while other varieties make 
large ones. Do not consider small bulbs worth¬ 
less, for they are equally as good, and in many 
cases better than large ones. Medium and small- 
sized bulbs more often produce the finest and 
highest colored flowers, and in many cases . the 
best and most effective plants. The only requisite 
of a Dahlia bulb is, be sure that your bulb has 
one or two eyes or sprouts, whether large or small, 
and with proper cultivation success is generally 
assured. A clump, root, bulb or division of a 
clump, pot-root, cutting, sprout, and even a Dahlia 
seed, will grow, and blossom, all equally well; it 
is not the size, but the care and cultivation—culti¬ 
vation is the principal requirement of the Dahlia. 
CONCLUSION. There are no set rules to follow 
invariably by all, or even by any one grower year 
after year. In fact, each soil, location, climate or 
Dahlia Clump, Showing Proper Method of Dividing. 
