Handling Small Evergreens 
The joy of watching baby trees grow up is a lasting one. In its earlier stages an 
evergreen requires some attention, but nothing which cannot be readily learned and prac' 
deed by an amateur. The following notes are designed to acquaint the beginner with the 
fundamental facts. For prices on small sizes refer to inside pages. For more detailed inf on 
mation, see the back cover for technical books, or write us for advice. 
Seedlings (“S”) 
Many varieties of evergreens are raised from 
seed until they are two or three years old. 
These very small plants must be handled with 
extra care. They should be planted about four 
inches apart in beds. The beds can be four 
feet wide and as long as is necessary—up to 
100 or 150 feet. Here they are left two years 
and for the first year, during the heat of the 
first Summer, should be shaded by a lath 
screen, rested on posts driven into the ground. 
They are hand cultivated frequently if satis¬ 
factory growth is to be obtained. In the Aut¬ 
umn, mulch with dead leaves three inches 
deep to prevent frost-heaving. At the end 
of two years, they should be taken from the 
beds and treated as transplants. 
Transplants (“X”) 
Evergreens that have been moved from one 
position to another, or that have had their 
roots pruned, tend to throw out extra roots 
near the stem, forming a close compact ball 
of fibrous roots that can be easily dug up 
when the tree is ready for its permanent loca¬ 
tion. This thick root system increases the 
chances for success enormously. 
Transplants under six inches are so small 
that they can best be handled in the same 
way as seedlings, except in reforestation plant¬ 
ings. But over six inches in height the trans¬ 
plant is sufficiently sturdy to be planted out 
in the open field in rows four feet apart, and 
a foot or more apart in the rows, depending 
on the size of the transplants. Here the roots 
have room to grow, and the tops have room 
for shapely development. They should be cul¬ 
tivated to encourage a good growth, and being 
planted in rows, a power cultivator can be 
used. 
Forestry 
Transplants and even seedling of the hard¬ 
ier types Spruce, Pine, Fir, etc.—can be set 
out immediately in their permanent positions 
where a large acreage is to be forested or 
where a screen or mass effect is desired. A 
space one foot square should be cleared and 
the tree planted carefully and firmly. Such a 
planting requires no further care except for 
occasional clearing away of weeds. However, 
when first planted each tree must be thor¬ 
oughly watered and for the next month should 
be further watered if rain is not normally 
plentiful. 
Watering 
Note well: an evergreen dies if its roots dry 
out. Whenever a shipment of evergreens is 
received, the roots should be examined and 
immediately soaked if they prove at all dry. 
They should then be planted at once if pos¬ 
sible and well watered after planting and still 
once more two or three days later. 
Heeling in 
If it is impossible to plant evergreens im- 
medately, they should be “heeled in.” Dig a 
trench in a shady spot deep enough to hold 
the roots and open all bundles and spread 
the roots naturally in the trench. The earth 
is carefully thrown in over the roots and 
tramped down, water heavily. Evergreens may 
safely remain here two or three weeks until 
it is convenient to plant out. 
Rooted Cuttings (“R.C.”) 
Many evergreens do not come true to type 
from seed. These are propagated by cuttngs 
of branches rooted in sand. It is a difficult 
process, requiring months in a greenhouse 
under exact barometric conditions. In the case 
of the Yews, often two years is required. For 
this reason, cuttings are much more expensive 
than seedlings. They require the same care 
(for the first year) as seedlings, but once they 
have passed a Winter in the beds they can be 
treated as transplants, except for a few special 
varieties. 
Grafts 
Some trees which do not come true from 
seed will not even take root readily. These 
varieties are grafted on established roots of 
related species and when the graft is healed 
are perfectly hardy and can be treated as 
transplants. But during the first year, while 
the graft is healing, they must be carefully 
tended. Plant in beds and provide lath shad¬ 
ing, removing on dull days so that the ground 
is not too wet. Mulch carefully in Winter 
and if possible place a wind protection around 
each bed. Once a Winter is safely passed out- 
of-doors, the danger is over. For this reason 
it is best to buy grafted varieties one year old. 
See pages 2 and 3. 
How Many Trees in a Bed? 
In a bed 4 feet wide and 10 feet long the 
following table indicates the number of trees. 
In a four-inches-apart planting and a bed 100 
feet long, for instance, there would be 3,600 
trees. 
Distance Number 
4x4 inches .360 trees per bed 
6x6 inches .160 trees per bed 
8x8 inches .......100 trees per bed 
How Many Trees per Acre? 
Rows 3 feet apart, trees 1 foot apart 14,520 
Rows 3 feet apart, trees 2 feet apart 7,260 
Rows 4 feet apart, trees 2 feet apart 5,450 
Rows 5 feet apart each way. 1,745 
Rows 6 feet apart each way._ 1,210 
