PUDOR’S, INC., Puyallup, State of Washington 
Plant Perennials in the Fall 
By Amy Hore 
September is the best month of the year in which to plant perennials, and 
October is the next best. If they become well established before winter, they will 
be all ready to start into growth the first thing in the spring, and you will have 
better plants and earlier and larger flowers than if you wait until spring to move 
them. Moving plants always checks them more or less, and in the spring they 
have not time to fully recover before they need all their strength for blooming. 
This is especially true of those that start into growth very early, such as Pyreth- 
rum, Columbine, Viola, Lupines and Delphiniums. 
You will have no trouble in keeping them over winter provided your beds 
are well drained. Poor drainage is responsible for most of the winter killing of 
plants. Cold will not hurt them, but wet soil in the winter is fatal. 
If you want your perennials to do well, prepare a good bed for them. The 
most important thing (much more important than rich soil) is to dig deep— 
at least 18 inches by actual measurement and as much deeper as you have patience 
for. Fertilize with well-rotted manure if you have it. If you can’t get it, use 
bone-meal or sheep manure and plenty of humus. Never use fresh manure. And 
be sure that whatever fertilizer you use is well mixed with the soil. 
After the ground is frozen, which is usually not until December, cover the 
beds two or three inches deep with oak leaves or salt hay (the best of all) to 
prevent the ground alternately thawing and freezing. 
PUT A PARASOL OVER YOUR PLANTS DURING THE COLD 
WINTER MONTHS —NOT AN OVERCOAT! 
Experience has taught the gardener that protection is best given after ground 
is frozen and the plants are completely at rest. He has found that autumn leaves 
placed over his favorite perennials are soon matted tightly over them and that 
the leaves ferment early in spring, often injuring the plants by starting them 
from their sleep too early. The best way to protect the plants is first to place 
branches of trees or garden trash, such as corn fodder, over the beds; then the 
leaves may safely be used, for they cannot pack down into an air-tight covering. 
As someone well said: “The protection for winter should be more like a 
parasol than an overcoat,” because winter injury is caused either by alternate 
freezing and thawing in spring, due to no protection; or by too early growth in 
spring, resulting from the heat generated by thick coverings of fermenting 
leaves. Protection is not needed to prevent freezing. 
SUCCESS WITH PERENNIALS 
1. Prepare soil deeply, thoroughly. A perennial bed must remain for some years. 
2. Use plenty of fertilizer. A complete fertilizer or bone meal will result in 
strong plants and abundant flowers. 
3. Arrange plants so they are suited to space allotted; put tallest ones at back, 
using such sorts as may be depended upon for a good foliage background. Let 
some of taller sorts extend toward front, especially in wider parts of bed or 
border. This avoids monotony and gives interest. Provide for choice edging 
plants which are compact in growth. 
4. Select plants which produce an abundance of bloom throughout a long season 
for the main stand-bys of the border. Tuck a few choice or lesser known 
sorts in the spaces between the dependables. 
5. Choose colors with care. Avoid close association of different reds, combin¬ 
ing scarlets, oranges and salmons together, but not near crimsons, magentas 
and lavender-rose colors. Use white flowers to separate doubtful colors; but 
do not use white too abundantly. 
6. Be sure to buy Bordeaux Mixture in March, so you are prepared to start spray¬ 
ing Peonies, Phlox, Hollyhocks and Delphiniums early. Spray plants and soil 
as soon as growing starts; repeat weekly. Use according to directions on can. 
7. Have arsenate of lead and nicotine extract on hand. Use spray or dust of arsen¬ 
ate of lead for all insects or caterpillars which chew holes in leaves. Use nico¬ 
tine sulphate or tobacco extract for various plant lice, aphids or other sucking 
mouth-part insects. With latter class it is necessary to hit insects with spray. 
8. Cultivate the soil between the plants so that there is a constant layer of loose 
soil about them. This will help to eliminate the need for watering perennials. 
9. Transplant each sort when it becomes greatly crowded, or seems to be ill- 
adapted to the location. Most sorts can be divided into several pieces to 
increase the number of plants. 
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