HINTS ON SOWING FLOWER SEEDS 
When sowing; seeds, bear in mind the fact that every fertile seed contains a 
living plant in embryo. The germ of life is there in a state of suspended ani¬ 
mation and only awaits favorable conditions to quicken and develop. Water, heat 
and air are the all-important factors, and a happy combination of these must be 
the object of all preparations. 
WATER. As a general rule, a seed requires to take up a quantity of water 
equal to its own bulk to enable the germinating processes to commence. After 
they have once started, germination must go on, and growth continue, or the 
embryo will perish. 
TEMPERATURE. Experiments have proved that seeds of hardy plants give 
the best percentage of germination if sown in a temperature of 45 degrees to 
50 degrees. Half-hardy subjects should be given 10 degrees more, while Cucum¬ 
bers, Melons, Bananas and the like, which revel under tropical conditions, should 
be afforded a seed bed temperature of 70 degrees to 75 degrees. 
AIR. Seeds breathe, giving off during the germinating processes carbon 
dioxide, and unless this can readily escape, germination is materially hindered, 
hence the advisability of using an open sandy compost that air can readily 
penetrate. 
SEED SOWING UNDER GLASS. Seeds of any type sown under glass in 
pots or boxes should be sown very thinly, and be just lightly pressed into the 
soil with the aid of a piece of board. The soil should have been previously mois¬ 
tened and allowed to drain, and after sowing, cover the seed with three times 
its own diameter of fine sandy soil. By this method the seed is enclosed in a 
moist bed, from which loss of water by evaporation must be checked by covering 
the pots, etc., with sheets of glass, and shading from direct sunshine with paper 
until the seedlings appear, as the soil must on no account be allowed to become 
dry after sowing. If possible, avoid any further watering until the seed has 
germinated, but should it appear necessary, water is best applied by standing 
the pot or pan in water up to the rim. 
SOWING SEED OUT-OF-DOORS. Outdoor sowings are less under control, 
but the careful cultivator will usually be able to get a satisfactory seed bed. 
This is of the utmost importance, as much good seed is ruined by being sown 
when the soil is in an unsuitable condition. Good results can never be obtained 
by sowing in a pasty soil; the land should work freely without “balling/’ a 
condition that can often be obtained early in the season by lightly forking over 
and leaving to dry for a few hours in the sun and wind before attempting to 
rake down. 
SOWING HARDY ANNUALS. Seeds of Hardy Annuals can be sown direct 
into the position in which the plants are to bloom; making both spring and 
autumn sowings, the best months being March and April — September and Octo¬ 
ber, respectively, for most types. Prepare the positions thoroughly, sow the seed 
very thinly and cover with fine sandy soil. Many species, including such favor¬ 
ites as Mignonette, Clarkia, Godetia, Nigelia, Schizanthus and many others, 
transplant readily, and an earlier supply of bloom may be obtained by sowing 
these subjects in boxes in gentle heat during early March, hardening the plants 
prior to transplanting to their flowering positions during April. The first men¬ 
tioned is popularly supposed to be a difficult subject to transplant, but this will 
not be found to be the case if transplanting is firmly done when the soil is in 
fairly moist condition; the plants should not be watered in, but may be fresh¬ 
ened by spraying with a syringe, or fine rosed can, should the weather prove 
dry and sunny. 
SOWING HALF - HARDY ANNUALS. Such as Asters, Phlox Drummondii, 
Salpiglossis, etc., should be sown in boxes or pots on a mild hot bed during first 
or second weeks in April, and grown on steadily during the six or eight weeks 
that must elapse before it is safe to put them into their flowering quarters. The 
more tender types usually grown for greenhouse decoration, as for instance, the 
Thunbergias, Celosias, Torenias, etc., should be sown in good time, say April at 
the latest, or the season will be far spent before they are in bloom. 
HARDY BIENNIALS. Should be sown at an earlier date than is usually the 
case; much better plants can then be obtained and the wealth of bloom these 
will give in the spring will amply repay. A good general rule to adopt, and one 
that will provide a useful, timely reminder, is to make a point of sowing seeds 
of Hardy Biennial plants for the following year’s supply at the time the current 
year’s plants are in full bloom. 
HARDY PERENNIALS. Seeds of these should be sown during spring and 
early summer, and where the convenience exists it is a good plan to sow in pots 
or boxes in a cold frame, transplanting when large enough to handle into nursery 
beds until the autumn. Otherwise, the seed may be sown in the open ground, 
observing the precautions already advised as to conditions of soil, etc. Shading 
is important and the seed beds should be protected from full sun until the seed¬ 
lings are well established. o 
