Portion of a well-planted Rose-garden 
Climbing Roses—and here we refer to the Wichuraianas 
and the new Australian climbers that produce their large 
flowers singly or in clusters on long stems—need very little 
pruning the first few years, except to see that the old 
flower-stems, provided they have not been used for cut- 
flowers, are cut back to within one or two eyes from the 
main branch. It must be remembered that this class flowers 
only on wood of the previous season’s growth. On most 
varieties even the old, hard canes, provided they are 
healthy, will produce a bountiful crop of flowers year after 
year. At any time, preferably during early summer after 
blooming, some of the old canes may be removed entirely 
if the plant is becoming too large or growing out of bounds. 
In other words, prune them for shape and symmetry and 
train them wherever and whichever way you want them 
to be, either on trellises, pillars, fences, pergolas, arches, 
etc. Greater profusion of bloom results when the new 
canes are bent or trained in different directions instead of 
being allowed to grow straight up. 
The old Rambler type, like Dorothy Perkins and 
Crimson Rambler, whose small, double flowers are borne 
in clusters, must be pruned each year so that the canes that 
have flowered are removed. This allows the new strong 
shoots coming from the base of the plant to grow and 
develop flowering eyes for next year’s flowers. 
In pruning Polyanthas, simply remove the faded flowers 
during the summer and prune lightly in spring. 
SUMMER PRUNING. At the end of the first or main 
blooming season, which in this latitude comes in late June, 
a medium pruning will result in a more bounteous crop of 
bloom later on. Where the flowers were not cut with a 
liberal stem, the latter may now be cut back two-thirds or 
so of their length; this allows two or three sets of leaves to 
remain on each strong stem. Do not, however, cut all 
growths back nor prune severely as advised in the spring. 
So severe a pruning will disturb the balance between top 
and root and will seriously check the growth. 
We do not advise later summer pruning nor fertilizing 
since both will have a tendency to promote late growths 
which will not have time to ripen or harden for the winter. 
AUTUMN PRUNING. The question has been asked us 
many times how or what to do about pruning before hilling 
up with soil for winter protection. Very little, if any, is 
necessary except to remove some of the tall branches on 
varieties like Radiance, Lady Ursula, etc. This may be 
done roughly and is mainly recommended to prevent un¬ 
necessary evaporation when so much of the plant is exposed 
to strong winds and sun. 
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