Cultivating and Watering 
Most everyone knows that it is important to keep the 
soil in a Rose-bed loose and aerated. A summer mulch of 
peat moss, tobacco stems, grass-clippings, or other clean 
litter is always beneficial. We like to see the peat moss 
hoed and worked into the upper soil-layer. Roses do not 
need to be hoed or cultivated deeply so long as the job is 
done regularly and thoroughly. 
Never allow Rose-beds to become dry throughout the 
entire growing season from early spring until late fall. We 
know of many instances where Roses are suffering, espe¬ 
cially during July and August, from lack of water. In many 
cases the gardener imagines his problem is one of feeding, 
whereas all that is necessary is a thorough soaking. The 
theory that Rose-gardens must be especially well drained 
has been carried to the extreme in this country. It is 
different in the Pacific Northwest and in foreign countries, 
particularly England, where climate and atmosphere are 
continually moist. Therefore, our recommendation is 
always to water, and water plenty, during prolonged dry 
spells. 
Diseases and Insects 
BLACK-SPOT. There are two main general diseases to 
which the Rose is subject; viz., Black-Spot and Mildew. 
The former, as its name indicates, appears as a black or 
brownish spot on the foliage. It rarely puts in an appear¬ 
ance until about the close of the first blooming season in 
June. It always appears first on the lowest foliage and 
works upward. As a result, this disease will often practi¬ 
cally defoliate the bush. It will not kill the latter but will 
check the growth and bloom for the season and so weaken 
the plant that it may die back over winter. 
MILDEW. This is shown in a grayish, crinkled appear¬ 
ance of the foliage. Like black-spot, it is of a fungous 
nature, the spores fastening themselves on the bottom of 
the leaf and spreading rapidly unless checked. It is most 
likely to occur where the air-circulation is defective or 
confined and particularly after cold nights following 
warm days. 
Treatment of Both. The two diseases may be prevented 
by the use of the Massey Dust, a preparation consisting of 
nine parts of a very finely prepared sulphur (not flowers of 
sulphur) and one part lead arsenate. This is now manu¬ 
factured with the addition of a green coloring matter to 
make it inconspicuous on the foliage, to increase its 
fungicidal value and is sold as Pomo-Green, with or without 
nicotine. With the nicotine sulphate added, it is a com¬ 
plete fungicide and insecticide combined. We have used 
Pomo-Green on our extensive Rose-plantings for the past 
eight years. During this time we have also experimented 
with many other commercial fungicides, but none have 
prevented black-spot and mildew so easily as Pomo-Green 
used as a dust. We therefore recommend it highly and are 
pleased to offer it as a direct service to our Rose patrons. 
Current prices in spring upon request. 
Another very good commercial fungicide and insecticide 
is Triogen. This must be used as a spray and prevents 
black-spot and mildew. Prices in spring upon request. 
When to Apply Dust or Spray. Best applied in early 
morning or late in the evening when the air is quiet. Since 
prevention rather than cure must be the spirit of complete 
control of black-spot, it is essential that you start dusting 
or spraying as soon as the plants are in active growth, 
when the leaves are fully open and the new shoots are 
taking on height. Apply approximately every ten days, 
but less frequently during prolonged hot, dry spells in 
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