Valuable Peony Information 
The Peony is of such simple culture and so easy to grow 
that but little instruction will be necessary in order that 
the beginner may produce the finest blooms provided you 
begin with solid, healthy roots with known blooming 
qualities. 
Preparing the Ground 
Spade deeply, and allow to settle, any good piece of 
garden soil that has successfully grown other flowers or a 
good crop of vegetables. Where such a soil is not available, 
a layer of old cow-manure may be placed in the bottom 
of a hole 12 to 18 inches deep. Cover with clean, fresh 
soil so no manure comes in direct contact with the roots. 
About a pint of raw coarse bonemeal may be mixed with 
the soil in which Peonies are set. 
Please do not worry about a lot of elaborate soil-prepara¬ 
tion. Peonies resent heavy fertilizing before they are 
established one or two years. 
Never plant the Peony in soil in which Peonies have 
grown before. Disregard of this will result in complete 
failure. 
When to Plant 
From the middle of September until the ground freezes 
is ideal Peony-planting time. After a dry summer, our 
roots are in better condition for digging and planting 
during early October. The farther south, the later the 
planting should be made. 
The Peony is sent to you in the form of a dormant root 
(see page 51) on the crown of which are seen pinkish white 
“eyes” which send up next year’s flowering shoots. 
Peony roots can be shipped safely and easily anywhere. 
Depth and Distance to Plant 
Set so the eyes on the crown of the root are only 
2 inches beneath the final level surface of the soil. 
Tamp freshly spaded soil before planting so roots will 
not settle. Deep planting means lack of bloom. 
Set roots 3 to feet apart, according to room at one’s 
disposal; 3 feet apart is good distance for a border or hedge. 
Watering 
It is always best to water or soak newly planted Peony 
i roots. An established Peony plant will apparently stand 
a lot of drought, although it is most important to water 
during dry spells in July and August when next year’s 
flowering eyes are being formed underground. Also soak 
the beds when the buds are forming in spring. 
Later Fertilizing 
Established plants need an application of a quart of 
unleached hardwood ashes and raw, coarse bonemeal, 
hall and half, in summer after the flowering season. The 
same may be applied in early spring. Other commercial 
! fertilizers may be used, but follow directions carefully. 
Never place manure directly over the crowns, but feed in 
a circle as wide as the foliage. 
Hoe and cultivate freely. 
Wintering 
Never apply a mulch of any kind after the first year. 
Peonies are “cold weather” plants and like to be frozen in 
hard for a long dormant period. Better blooms are pro¬ 
duced after cold and severe winters. 
