“OUR BUSINESS IS GROWING” 
29 
Personal Opinions 
Quite often we are asked for our opinion on certain varieties and customers sometimes desire 
that we make recommendations. The value of these recommendations is doubtful, no matter 
from what source they come. We find some of the most competent Glad growers differing sharply 
concerning many of the best-known varieties. However, we offer the following ramblings for 
what they may be worth. 
By knowing the country of origin of a variety we may get some inkling as to its character¬ 
istics. American breeders seem to be more varied in their aims than those of most countries, how¬ 
ever, as a whole, they try to especially meet the demands of their patrons for large size of flower. 
Our American introductions have been rather shy of good yellows, whites and blues, most of the 
outstanding varieties of these colors beine of foreign oriein. In fact, most of the best of these 
shades have been supplied by the great German firm of Pfitzer, which is near the top in other 
colors as well. The English strive for excellence of form and color and favor the smaller-flowered 
varieties more than Americans do. The French place color first and are especially fond of con¬ 
trasting blotches. Of late years, progressive firms have kept a careful eye on Australia and New 
Zealand. Some of the introducers from “down under” have not been as careful in selection of colors 
as they should have been, but many wonderful new ones are coming from that part of the world. 
Some of these are of mammoth size while others open more florets than any others ever introduced. 
No one country has a corner on all the worthwhile kinds of Glads. 
Now for variety recommendations. In whites, we favor Jonkheer Van Tets, Mammoth White, 
and Maid of Orleans. Blues—Blue Admiral, Pelegrina, Ave Maria, Aida. In yellows, Yellow Per¬ 
fection and Canberra, with Golden Chimes making a bid to be classed with the leaders. How 
about reds? Commander Koehl, Red Lory, Lucifer, Pfitzer’s Triumph, and Dr. Bennett, while in 
the black ones we choose Marocco. Lavenders: Minuet (of course), Berty Snow, Dr. Moody. 
Pinks, salmon pinks, etc., include so many that it is hard to make a choice: Mrs. Douglas, W. H. 
Phipps, Picardy, Mildred Louise, Coryphee, Mrs. Rattray, Jessie, Esme Desailly. Orange: Mrs. 
Errey, Tawhaki, Betty Nuthall. Purple: Troubadour, Rameses. Smokies: Marmora, Mother 
Machree, Bagdad. 
After reading over the preceding list we wonder if these are the ones we would choose if we 
could not have others, too. There is room for doubt, but we know they are safe to recommend to 
others. But notice some we overlooked: Moondara, Frederick Christ, Mrs. Langford, Nerissa, Paul 
Deschanel, Our Selection, Paul Cambon, Netherlands Prince, Pride of Portland, Queen Mary, Red 
Phipps, Roi Albert, Emile Aubrun, Salbach’s Orchid, Spirit of St. Louis, Sultan, Smiling Maestro, 
Wolfgang von Goethe, Yvonne, Moorish King, Le Habitant, Libelle, John Ramsay, Heathfield, 
Hercules, Helen Jacobs, Veilchenblau, Gertrude, Director, Dr. Shook, Charles Lindberg, Big 
Nan, Blue Danube, A. H. Woodfull, Aflame, and dozens more probably as good. It is almost a 
hopeless task to select the best dozen or even the best hundred. The choice is up to you and you 
probably will like many that we do not place so highly. 
Still having a little space, we will pass on a little growing information for the inexperienced 
grower. 
The three essentials of Glad growing are: good bulbs, good soil with sufficient water, and good 
culture. 
The first may be obtained from any reliable dealer. 
The soil may vary in composition and still be good. Some grow Glads in sand, some in peat 
and others in various other kinds of dirt. It is necessary that the ground be clean (that is free 
of pests or conditions conducive thereto), that it have sufficient strength to give good growth, 
and that it be well drained. Too heavy clay soils are not recommended. Shade and tree roots should 
be avoided. 
Good culture covers a lot of things: Soil should be thoroughly prepared before planting, put 
in best possible condition. Treatment of bulbs for disease is a good precaution, either one of the 
patent preparations or common lye (one can to 25 gallons of water) being recommended. Naph¬ 
thalene flakes are suggested as thrip treatment, but our experience is that they seem to damage 
lye-treated bulbs. Treatment is dangerous to bulbs starting to sprout roots. Depth of planting 
varies from 2 to 6 inches, depending on size of bulbs and kind of soil. Bulblets should be cracked 
or soaked before planting. Cultivation should be thorough but not too deep. Don’t keep patch 
wet all the time. Go easy on irrigation early part of season and increase when spikes start up. 
Fertilize if necessary but avoid overdoing it. Dig your bulbs before tops die down in fall. They 
deteriorate if left in wet ground too long. Store in cool, dry place in shallow containers. Further 
cultural advice will be given on application but please be specific in asking questions. 
