Dahlia Catalogue For 1913. 
3 
HOW TO KEEP CUT BLOOMS OF DAHLIAS. 
Cut the flowers in the early part of the day if possible, especially Cactus, 
Decorative and Single varieties, and plunge the stems at once, nearly their 
entire length, into water as hot as can be borne by one’s hand. Let them 
remain in the water until it cools, after which they may be placed in cold 
water in the usual manner but with the addition of a quarter-teaspoonful 
of salt to a quart of water. When the stems are particularly hard and wiry, 
water near the boiling point may be safely used with good results. Freshly 
cut flowers, treated as above, will keep considerably longer in good condi¬ 
tion than when treated in the ordinary manner. Flowers that may have 
become wilted are always greatly revived, and when their condition is not 
too serious, are often entirely restored in appearance by this treatment. 
Try it and be convinced, but do not make the mistake of submerging the 
flowers nor the foliage, but regulate the depth of water to the length of the 
stems. 
READ THIS. 
I find many of my friends and customers who, after reading my Cata¬ 
logue, find it very difficult and complexing to select from the large list of 
varieties kinds that are most suitable for their purpose. In this case I 
would be pleased to assist you to the best of my ability, and while I cannot 
guarantee firsLclass results on account of poor locations, and the indiffer¬ 
ence in cultivation which may exist through the inexperience of any cus¬ 
tomer, I will exercise my best judgment giving you the benefit of my experi¬ 
ence in selecting varieties that I consider the very best, although I should 
like to have the customer state plainly the type preferred. 
INSECT PESTS. 
I find that many of the Dahlia lovers are troubled with insect pests at 
the present time, and the two insects which seem to affect the Dahlia most¬ 
ly are the Chintz Fly and the small green Fly or Lice. These green flies 
seem to work wholly on the under side of the leaf, and a light spraying of 
tobacco water or whale oil soap solution will check them from working. In 
most cases we find that if wood ashes are shaken on the plants when the 
dew is on them it will check both kinds of pests from working. Wood ashes 
are also very effective to use around your plants when they first come 
through the ground, it will prevent cut worms, also borers, from working 
on your plants. These two pests first mentioned do most of their work 
just before the plant gets large enough to flower, and in many cases if not 
attended to will destroy the first buds and check the plants from flowering 
in the early part of the season. 
IN THE INTEREST OF THE GENERAL PUBLIC. 
I have made quite a thorough canvass in past years to find out the way 
the general public have been planting their Dahlias. I find that only about 
20 per cent, of the public understand how to grow the Dahlia. The other 80 
per cent, do just the opposite to what is most necessary for the growth and 
the production of the plant. In the first place I find that most people plant 
too many bulbs in a hill and expect by so doing they will get the best re¬ 
sults, but this is directly opposite from what should be done. One bulb with 
an eye or sprout is far better than any more. If you grow over two sprouts 
you are getting too much plant and not enough flowers. The general ama¬ 
teurs in planting Dahlia bulbs, stand their bulbs up straight in the ground 
in place of laying them flat six inches under ground so the sprout when 
grown will be fully six inches deep. At the base of the crown where the 
sprout starts is where all the new bulbs form and make growth. If you 
plant them not more than an inch or two deep, as soon as it becomes dry 
weather the plants become blighted and are not apt to flower the rest of 
the season. If planted six inches deep in most any soil there will be 
moisture enough to keep the plant continually growing without artificial 
watering. 
