Jackson’s Selected Roses 
Our own-root Roses are grown in pots in cool, clean, well-ventilated greenhouses, and 
may be set out in the garden any time except in severe winter months. For nearly 50 
years we have made a specialty of growing own-root Roses, noted for their sturdy, splen¬ 
did growth. They make amazingly rapid growth when transplanted into the open 
ground and grow and bloom 100 per cent. 
Our field-grown Roses are No. 1 grade, 2-year-old, vigorous stock from the open ground, 
budded on Rosa multiflora japonica understock. The plants are dormant and are shipped 
with the roots bare. All our Roses are guaranteed to please you. 
Roses will grow in any ordinary fertile ground but they are particularly fond of a 
heavy clay soil, liberally enriched, well drained, and cultivated. The ground should be 
well spaded and pulverized to the depth of 18 inches or more, and enriched by replacing 
one-third its bulk with well-rotted cow-manure. This well-rotted manure, with heavy 
clay soil, is one of the secrets of fine Roses. It must be thoroughly mixed through the 
soil from the bottom of the bed up, and then the bed lightly packed, unless it be prepared 
long enough in advance of planting for rains or watering to settle it. When the plants 
are set out, a trowelful of bonemeal may be worked in the surface of the ground around 
each Rose. If Roses are not planted in beds, the hole for each Rose should be prepared 
2 feet deep by 3 feet in diameter. Do not plant them in small post-holes and expect 
decent growth. 
CULTIVATION AND CARE OF ROSES 
Planting. As explained above, when the 
ground is well prepared, fine and in nice condi¬ 
tion, set the plant slightly deeper than the old 
soil-line indicates it was previously planted. 
Cover with fine earth, taking care to settle and 
draw it closely around the roots and main stem, 
and pack firmly. It is important that the earth 
be tightly pressed on roots. After planting, 
water sufficiently to settle the soil, and if hot or 
windy, it may be well to shade for a few days. 
If, in delayed transportation, the soil around 
own-root Roses has become hard and caked, it 
should be broken and loosened gently, so as not 
to break the fibrous roots. Keep Rose roots 
covered at all times, never exposing them to air 
or sun. 
Cultivation. Roses need continuous culti¬ 
vation during all but the winter months. The 
ground should not be allowed to bake or become 
hard. It should be stirred frequently, but never 
deeper than 2 inches. A 3-inch mulch of tobacco 
stems, in the spring or early summer, is bene¬ 
ficial. It aids in keeping the earth cool and dis¬ 
courages aphis. 
Watering. Water Roses once a week during 
the growing season if the weather is dry. This 
means a thorough soaking, not a sprinkling. It 
is best accomplished by letting a slow stream 
from the hose run on the bed, moving the hose 
from time to time until the whole bed is thor¬ 
oughly soaked. 
Feeding. Each spring more well-rotted 
manure should be thrown on the bed and lightly 
dug in. A trowelful of bonemeal and one of 
sheep-manure may also be worked around each 
plant three or four times during the growing 
season. Or about a quart of liquid cow-manure, 
diluted to the color of strong tea, may be applied 
twice each month until autumn. This feeding 
should be greatly reduced for one-year Roses 
during their first season. 
Pruning. The proper time to prune the 
Everblooming class is early in the spring before 
growth commences; all winter-killed and weak 
or exhausted wood should be removed, as they 
flower in early summer on new shoots from the 
root and remaining old wood. The best flowers 
come from the lowest 6 inches of the bush. 
Hybrid Perpetuals and Hardy Climbers 
should be pruned vigorously immediately after 
they have finished blooming in early summer. 
The new growth, which then starts from the 
old wood and roots, produces the blooming wood 
for the next year. Teas and Hybrid Teas may 
be planted 12 to 18 inches apart; Perpetuals 2 
to 3 feet; and Climbers 4 to 6 feet. 
Protection. This is not necessary in the 
South, but in severe climates where the tempera¬ 
ture reaches and remains below or around zero 
for long periods, Roses should be protected by 
hilling soil 7 to 8 inches high up around each 
plant late in the fall. After the ground has 
frozen, cover the entire bed with straw or leaves 
held in place by evergreen boughs. This cover¬ 
ing should not be thick enough to smother the 
plants and should be gradually drawn away 
during the spring. 
Prevention of Black-Spot and Mildew. 
Beginning in early spring and continuing until 
fall, carefully dust over and under the leaves of 
your plants every two weeks with a dust made 
of nine parts dusting sulphur and one part 
arsenate of lead. It should be applied with a 
dust-gun, or simply shaken from a sack at any 
time when the air is quiet. Prompt and thorough 
applications are necessary. If black-spot 
actually shows up, spray with Fungtrogen or 
Bordeaux Mixture, keep all affected leaves 
picked off, all fallen leaves picked up, and 
burned; and persist in careful routine spraying 
and dusting. For green aphis, or plant-lice, 
spray with a solution of Black-Leaf 40. 
Cultivating Roses thoroughly, which does not 
mean deeply, and cutting the flowers with 
liberal stems, produces vigorous growth and 
protects them against both insects and diseases.. 
