I can prove these claims false from the records of the Canadian Department of Entomology 
which has gone to the trouble of very careful investigation of this entire problem. 
Last Spring we had our crops planted on two very large farms at Brant, N. Y. but 
even though our plantings were a considerable distance from nearby residences, we treated 
free all bulbs that we thought would be planted within a zone that might prove unsafe, 
and it was very cheap crop insurance. 
I do not think that growers on large farms will have much danger of migratory 
insects. This hazard is met mainly on town lots and small farms where many small 
individual plantings are near to each other. The only way to play safe is to preach to all, 
the simple, safe, cheap and effective naphthalene treatment. The cost is so low as to 
mean nothing at all, and last summer while at Cornell College, I found them using the 
crude naphthalene with just as good results, perhaps just a little better than the flakes. 
The latter is a cheap treatment but the crude form costs only a fraction of what the flakes 
cost. We can now supply both the crude and the flakes. 
If you think that nearby plantings are likely to cause you trouble, after your plants 
are about four inches high, spray about once a week with the following formula. There 
are many other sprays in use but this one has been proven to be cheap and one of the 
most effective; recommended by the Department of Entomology. Prepare as follows: To 
three gallons of water, add one and one half pints of molasses and two heaping tablespoons 
of paris green; mix thoroughly and keep well agitated while spraying as the poison is 
heavy and has a tendency to settle to the bottom of container. Apply as a fine spray 
with considerable force, keeping nozzle near to plants. It has been reported to me that 
infested plants have been kept clean and free of thrips by the VIGOROUS USE of the 
garden hose, where water is available under pressure to use on the plants. The idea is to 
give the plants a short but vigorous spraying of cold water several times weekly, using 
the nozzle near to the plants, applying the water with much force. It has been stated 
that infested stock has been kept clean by this method as it is a well known fact that 
where irrigation is frequently used or in very wet weather thrips increase so slowly as to 
do but little if any damage. The real danger from thrips is NUMBERS. If you read 
our 1932 Catalog you realize how one or two insects can, under favorable conditions, in 
a very short time increase to millions. Hot, dry weather favors their rapid increase. 
RESISTANCE OR IMMUNITY: Thrips favor certain varieties more than others, 
and some writers have claimed for certain varieties, including Giant Nymph, that they 
were immune to damage, but I know of one man who lost 10,000 Giant Nymph last 
season from thrips damage, it is our opinion that they will damage all varieties when there 
is not much to discriminate between, the so called resistant varieties are left for last, if 
infestation is light, they are not likely to show any damage whatever. 
I have not touched on other control methods, as the larger growers who wish to use 
them can get all the information they need from the U. S. Department of Entomology. 
For the average person, naphthalene is the most practical. Hot water is simple and 
effective, but it is somewhat difficult to maintain the proper even temperature for the 
twenty minute treatment. If you do use hot water, do not let it drop below 112 F. or go 
much above 115 F. at any time as it was proven at Cornell College last season that hot 
water, when used above 120 F. caused serious damage and weakened growth of plants. 
We recommend a fall and a spring fumigation with naphthalene, and if you dip 
for “scab control,” use the lye treatment. One 10c can of common lye, such as you buy 
in the grocery store, to every twenty gallons of water. Let bulbs in this for ten to twelve 
hours. It will make them look dark, but that will do no harm. Better let them dry off 
before you plant, as it is a “messy job” to handle fresh treated, wet bulbs. The lye 
treatment for scab is thought to be helpful as a thrips treatment also, although entomolo¬ 
gists have not admitted this. Use wooden container for lye mixture. 
NOTE: When fumigating in spring, do so before sprouts or roots grow out. Bulbs 
should be dormant. 
— 26 — 
