Another of our Rose fields 
Hardy Climbers 
J 
Although Hardy Climbers bloom but once each year, they produce 
such an enormous crop of flowers at that time, as to make their cost 
insignificant, and their slight care a pleasure. Climbers can be trained 
against buildings, on fences, posts and pillars, over arches, pergolas, 
banks and walls, or to screen a porch, cover a tree stump and conceal 
small outbuildings. There is no other splash of color in the entire field 
of horticulture that arouses humdrum humanity, like the gorgeous spec¬ 
tacle of blooming Climbing Roses. 
ALBERTINE —Two-toned. Inside of petals copper-yellow, reverse side 
coppery-rose. A hardy and strong grower and a profuse bloomer 
with beautiful glossy foliage on reddish stems. A very handsome 
climber which blooms in midseason. 
AMERICAN BEAUTY CLIMBING —Vermillion-pink. It has large, 
fragrant flowers that are splendid for cutting. This is considered 
an old variety, but it is still as wonderful and popular as ever. It 
is an early bloomer. 
JACOTTE —Brilliant coppery-salmon, on saffron-yellow. Large beau¬ 
tiful flowers that make a wonderful show because of the profusion 
of bloom. The foliage is shiny and hollv-like, making the bush very 
attractive, even when not in bloom. This variety is considered the 
best hardy yellow. It makes a marvelous combination when planted 
together with Albertine. It also blooms in midseason. 
MME. GREGOIRE STAECHELIN —The petals are delicate rose color, 
with the outside striped with red. The large blooms come on very 
long stems, fine for cutting. It is also fragrant. This is a newcomer 
in the rose field, and one of the loveliest ever discovered. It blooms 
early in the season. 
MARY WALLACE —Delicate salmon-rose, very much like Lady Ash- 
town. The blooms are very large on long stems. It is a strong and 
most vigorous grower. It blooms early. 
PAUL’S SCARLET CLIMBER —Bright scarlet, tinted with crimson. 
The flowers are fairly large, coming in clusters, making the most 
vivid splash of color in the gar¬ 
den. The color does not fade, but 
holds clear and true till the 
petals drop. The plant is a 
medium grower and is, therefore, 
used extensively for pillars, or 
posts for which it is highly 
adaptable. 
HOW TO GET TO 
OUR NURSERIES 
We are located at Jenners- 
ville, one mile southwest of 
West Grove, in Chester 
County, Pa., on Route No. 
1, the Baltimore Pike, be¬ 
tween Philadelphia and Balt¬ 
imore; 40 miles southwest of 
Philadelphia and 60 miles 
northeast of Baltimore. 
We have nurseries both at 
Jennersville, and Kelton, one 
mile away. 
Dutch Windmill near our office 
PLANTING AND CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
Roses require sun, at least one-half of the day. Protection from 
strong winds is also desirable. The beds should, also, be placed where 
the soil is naturally well-drained. The soil should be good garden loam. 
If it is poor, it should be replaced with good top-soil for a depth of 
twelve inches, and allowed to settle well before planting. The Roses 
should be planted 12 to IS inches apart each way. The distance can 
be varied somewhat, depending on the vigor and spread of the varieties 
selected. 
HOW TO PLANT 
Do not expose the roots to the air or sun. The roots should be 
kept covered at all times, and can be dipped in a pail of water while 
planting. Dig the hole large enough to enable the roots to be spread 
out naturally and comfortably, and deep enough to bring the “bud” just 
below the top of the bed. Work the soil well in among the roots, and 
after the roots are covered and the hole fairly well filled with soil, 
TRAMP with the heel of your shoe, until the soil is firmly packed down 
all around. Then fill the hole with water several times, allowing it to 
drain away well each time. Fill the balance of the hole with loose dirt. 
If planting in the Fall, hill up the soil immediately to a height of 
S inches or more, even to covering the entire plant. In the Spring this 
soil can be leveled off, and the surplus carried away. If planting in the 
Spring, no hilling-up is necessary, just leave the ground level. 
All plants should be placed in the ground as soon as received. If 
delayed more than one week, remove them from the bundles, and hill 
in or bury entirely in a shady and moist place, until wanted. 
CARE OF ROSES 
Fertilizing: No fertilizer of any kind is required after planting in the 
Fall. Neither in the Spring immediately after planting, if good top soil 
has been used, as required. After the plants have started to grow, borne 
their first crop of blooms and had a short rest period, apply a good 
quantity of fresh cow manure or good chemical fertilizer to the top of 
the bed. In future years, apply a heavy dose of cow manure (well- 
rotted or fresh) in early Spring. 
Watering and Mulching: During the hot, dry spells throughout the 
summer, water well every other day, either in early morning or late in 
the evening. Mulch with well-rotted manure or peat moss about July 1. 
Winter Protection: Just after planting in the Fall, hill the soil 
around the plants to a height of eight inches or more, even to the extent 
of covering the entire plant. Established plants should be hilled up, in 
similar fashion about the end of November or before freezing weather. 
Spraying or Dusting: Either method is effective. With large beds 
or gardens, spraying is usually cheaper. Use Bordeaux Mixture or Sul¬ 
phur Dust for Mildew, Black Spot, etc. All diseased or injured branches 
or leaves should be removed and burned. For insects, we recommend 
Red Arrow mixed with a good soap spreader. 
Pruning: Hybrid Teas should be pruned in March. Remove all 
dead, broken or weak branches. Shorten all other branches to within 
6 to 8 inches of the ground. (Older and very vigorous plants need not 
be trimmed so far). Make all cuts clean just above an “eye,” leaving 
only clean, healthy canes on the plant, arranged so as to make a neat, 
symmetrical bush. Climbers should be trimmed just after blooming. 
All very old, weak or diseased canes should be removed. Those remain¬ 
ing should be shortened or cut back to good, healthy side shoots and all 
new canes from the base left to grow. 
The Radiances 
