Cultural Directions 
Try Wrapping Newly Planted Climbers in Straw 
This operation will keep the wood green and plump until the 
roots have functioned enough to raise the sap into the branches, 
then you should get flowers the first season if planted early. 
Location —Choose the best position in your garden, where the 
air w T ill circulate freely yet protected from strong winds. Do 
not plant near trees and keep away from hedges and shrub¬ 
bery. Roses do not require constant sunshine, but do much 
better when they receive the morning sun. Do not plant 
annuals near your roses, they resent it. 
Soil —Roses are by no means arbitrary as regards to soil, or 
how could they come so universally good from widely different 
soils and locations. The ideal soil, a clay loam, suits them best. 
This soil should be of an adhesive nature, yet porous enough 
to permit drainage. Roses do not do well in all black soil as 
it contains too much acid. You will find that roses winter 
much better in heavy soil. Never elevate your rose bed except 
if its location is low. Elevated beds dry out rapidly. If your 
soil is sandy you can dig out holes where the roses are to set, 
about a foot square and 15 inches deep and fill in with heavier 
soil, mostly clay, to surround the roots, as the roses require 
heavy soil to cling to. 
Planting —-Our roses are all low-budded and should be planted 
with the union one inch below the ground level. This is most 
important. Too shallow or too deep planting means failure. 
By all means plant firmly by treading the soil around the 
plant. When filling in the soil after planting, give one good 
watering to firm it. Dormant roses, when planted early, re¬ 
quire little moisture until active growth starts. Hybrid Teas 
should be set eighteen inches apart, Perpetual or one crop 
roses, two feet apart. 
Pruning —Roses should be severely cut back, especially when 
planted in the Spring. Your best blooms come from the low 
eyes, being larger, near the base of the plant. Always cut the 
thinnest canes shortest, and all weak wood entirely away. 
Cut the strong branches to six or eight inches and the smaller 
branches to half that length. 
Thinning Out —It frequently happens as the season advances, 
that several small shoots appear on some plants. These should 
be cut off. The plant will then branch from the bottom and 
throw out strong canes, producing beautiful blooms. 
Planting Time —The bulk of our roses are shipped out to be 
planted in early April for spring planting and the beginning 
of November for fall planting. We also ship during March, 
to sections further South. 
Fertilizer —Nothing is better for roses than cow manure. It can 
be used more liberally, besides holding more moisture than 
other manures. New horse manure is too heating and should 
be used as a winter mulch. When one year old, it can be 
thoroughly mixed with soil. If manure cannot be secured, 
bone meal can be used with the addition of slacked lime or 
land plaster; this will sweeten the soil. 
In cities where cow or horse manure are not available, pul¬ 
verized sheep or cattle manure may be had and used quite 
heavily as a top dressing. Use at the rate of 50 lbs. for 50 roses. 
Diseases and Insects —Aphis, or green fly, little insects which 
infest the new growths in countless numbers, are best dis¬ 
lodged by gently spraying with the garden hose. This at the 
same time cleans the plant. Tobacco dust, usually to be had 
at seed stores, dusted on the plants in the morning when 
covered with dew, is further recommended when conditions 
require it. 
Green Worm —(Those that eat the leaves.) Apply hellibore 
with a small powder bellows early in the morning when dew 
is upon the plants, about three or four applications a season 
will suffice. Both the tobacco dust and hellibore will tem¬ 
porarily disfigure the plant but it can be washed off by 
spraying with the garden hose the third day after application. 
Brown Canker —Described and illustrated in 1927 Rose An¬ 
nual. A fungus affliction controllable by spraying copiously 
with Bordeaux Mixture in Autumn—and frequently in early 
Spring before the foliage appears. In some gardens frequent 
losses occur which is attributed to winter-killing but which 
in reality is Brown Canker. The disease is detected by the 
appearance of brown spots surrounded by a purple rim. Re¬ 
move the affected parts and spray frequently. 
Mildew —Detected by a grayish appearance of the foliage. 
Usually starts on the newer growths, frequently caused by 
closeness in day-time and cold nights. May be held in check 
by applying dry sulphur in the early morning. During late 
summer, do not water your roses in the evening as this induces 
mildew. 
Black Spot —Appearing as the name applies upon the leaves 
usually on the base of the plant. This fungus disease makes 
its appearance in late Summer and can be prevented if pre¬ 
caution is taken in time. Apply Pomogreen with bellows or 
blower every ten days from May to August and your roses 
will be clean of spot. 5 lb. cans cost $2.00. Must go by Express. 
Winter Protection —Earth, hoed up about six inches around 
your plants is the best protection. This sheds the water, thus 
preventing the plant from heaving up. It also keeps the plant 
at an even temperature. This method is much better than 
applying heavy manure directly against the plant. Apply the 
manure between the mounds. It can then be dug in Spring. 
Do not apply the manure until after several hard frosts, as 
mice may harbor there and bark your roses, if applied early 
in the season. 
IMPORTANT! Do not order your roses sent by Express if 
you live beyond the limits of express delivery. Include 
postage if you live beyon delivery. Every year we receive 
notices from Express Company stating addressee not 
within their limits. 
Why Order Early —All orders are filled in rotation as received. 
Last season hundreds of late orders were returned. Acknowl¬ 
edgment of your order will be made at once. 
We Ship by Express and Parcel Post, the latter being the most 
satisfactory. Customers wanting roses shipped by Parcel Post, 
kindly remit 50 cents per dozen plants in 1st, 2nd and 3d 
zones and 80 cents in 4th and 5th zones when ordering. This 
applies to all orders east of the Mississippi River. 
Fall Shipments usually despatched in early November. 
We Reserve the right to omit an item, to balance a shortage in 
remittance due, also to add to your order if you have over 
remitted. 
C. O. D. Orders must be accompanied by at least 25% deposit. 
Complaints must be made upon receipt of goods, and will be 
rectified if we have made any mistake. 
Guarantee —We guarantee our plants true to name and to 
reach you in good growing condition. If found otherwise they 
must be returned to us immediately and we will return your 
money. 
Second Choice —Kindly name a few additional varieties in 
case we are sold out of some sorts. This is important when 
orders are received late in the season. 
Our Nursery is situated on Main Road, one mile east of 
Williamsville, a suburb of Buffalo, N. Y. Busses pass our 
door. They leave Main and Niagara Streets, Buffalo, on the 
hour and half hour. 
Late Orders —Each year we receive hundreds of late orders 
calling for specified varieties which neither we nor any other 
firm can possibly fill at such a late date. A large number of 
these customers fail to realize that certain sorts must become 
exhausted as the season advances. We would deem it a favor 
if permitted to fill such order, using our best discretion as 
to similar colors. 
OUR QUANTITY RATES 
Varieties priced at 75 cts. each are $7.00 per 10 or $65.00 per 100. 
Varieties priced at $1.00 each are $9.00 per 10 or $75.00 per 100. 
15 
THE DUBOIS PRESS. ROCHESTER, N. Y. 
HORTICULTURAL PRINTERS 
