East Bridgewater Dahlia Cardens J. K. Alexander , East Bridgewater , Massachusetts 
CARE OF PLANTS. Give thorough cultivation, 
deep at first, and continue once a week until the 
plants commence to flower. After they commence 
to blossom do not cultivate, as then is the time 
the new roots are forming, and you are apt to 
cut off the new tubers, weakening the growth of 
the plant. . Do not fail to stir the soil after every 
rain, keeping the soil from forming a crust on 
the surface or baking; and conserving the moist¬ 
ure in the soil; thus avoiding the necessity of 
watering. 
As the shoot or plant commences to show itself 
above ground, care should be taken at this time 
for the prevention of cut worms, and other pests 
that destroy the young shoots, and I recommend 
Vermine, Aphol, Cut Worm Food, or Tobacco 
Dust, as the best preventatives for these pests. 
As soon as the. plants attain a height of eight 
to ten inches it is time to commence to “train” 
your plants. 
There are three systems from which you must 
choose:—the Staking System, the Branching 
Method, and the Massing System. 
The Staking System is the most popular, many 
amateurs finding it the most successful. Dahlias 
under this system should be planted from two to 
four feet apart, according to the amount of space 
you have to devote; the larger, the more robust 
the plants. Stakes should be set when the dahlia 
is planted. As soon as plants attain a height of 
from two to three feet they should be secured to 
the stakes, thus protecting them, and preventing 
the brittle stalks from being blown over or getting 
broken. 
The Branching Method. This system is ad¬ 
vocated by many professionals; and does away 
with staking. Plant in hills or rows^ from 
eighteen to thirty inches apart. When your plant 
has two sets of leaves, pinch off or cut out the 
whole top of the plant; at each leaf a branch will 
start, thus making four branches, one at each 
leaf. Do not pinch off your plant but once; as 
this system makes your plants two weeks later in 
flowering; but you receive four flower stalks, 
each of which will blossom equal to the one stalk 
which you would have received, had you left 
your plants grow without pinching. When the 
plant is grown it will have a short, strong, 
single stalk, which comes only an inch or two 
above ground, with four branches or flowering 
stalks. The plant is short, and has a neat branch¬ 
ing appearance; the branches are self-supporting 
and are not easily blown over by the winds. 
The Massing System. The system I use in 
planting my immense fields;—avoiding the extra 
labor and expense of staking, the woodeny effect 
of stakes in your garden, and giving a solid 
mass of foliage and flowers, more beautiful and 
effective than where nature’s beauty is broken at 
each interval with a stake. Plant bulbs in rows, 
from ten inches to two feet apart, according to 
the amount of space you have to devote. The 
plants are self-supporting; each plant supporting 
and protecting the other. 
After the plants attain eighteen inches in height 
an occasional spraying of Arsenate of Lead, Nico- 
Fume Liquid, Nicoticide, Tobakine, Whale Oil 
Soap Solution, or some other first-class solution, 
will kill and keep away the Aphis or Green Fly, 
which often infests Dahlias. 
__ Both Wood Ashes and Lime are good at all 
times, and in addition to being good fertilizers, 
are effective as preventatives against insect pests. 
To obtain the largest and most perfect flowers, 
only the best and largest buds should be allowed 
to mature; the others taken off, enabling the full 
strength to develop those into exhibition blooms. 
DISBUDDING. Some varieties of Dahlias re¬ 
quire thinning and disbudding to produce the 
best flowers. _ Varieties having an excessive 
amount of foliage and small growth should have 
a considerable part of their • branches removed, 
while those having more buds than can be proper¬ 
ly developed or matured should be disbudded. The 
operation in no way endangers the plants, and 
anyone can do it. Thin and disbud if necessary, 
moderately or severely as conditions may seem to 
require. 
Taking a budded stalk or branch;—you will 
note the large or first bud on the stalk, and also, 
that at each leaf all the way down the stalk new 
shoots or bud-stalks form; these in turn produce 
buds and flowering stalks, which over-top the 
first bud. The first bud on every stalk is always 
the largest, and produces the largest and best 
flower, ordinarily; before the first flower is in full 
blossom, the first two side shoots have formed 
buds and burst into flower; these in turn be¬ 
come passe, to be replaced by flowering shoots 
from the next set below, or the second pair of 
side-shoots. 
On most varieties the first flower has a short, 
stiff stem; we disbud to lengthen the stem and 
to secure larger flowers. 
The proper way to disbud: When the first bud 
is small the first set of side shoots should be re¬ 
moved with a sharp knife. This forces all the 
plant life that under ordinary conditions would 
have developed the first two side shoots, into the 
first bud, making the first flower much larger, 
and giving it a good long stem. Removing the 
first set of shoots also forces ahead the second 
set, and they in turn burst into flower. 
As you cut and remove your flowers, your plant 
sends forth new flowering stalks from the bottom 
of the plant; the more flowers you cut, the more 
will grow. 
Disbudding is more generally used for flowers 
for exhibition purposes; and when wishing the 
largest flower possible, for exhibition purposes, 
you can disbud every side shoot down the entire 
length of your stalk, forcing all plant life into 
the one flower; thus growing one flower of gigan¬ 
tic size; and this disbudding in addition to forcing 
with manure, taken up under forcing, insures you 
much greater success at exhibition. 
Anyone can grow Dahlias of exhibition quality 
if they will digest these remarks, study plant re¬ 
quirements, and then act accordingly. 
After your plant has been blossoming continu¬ 
ally, and flowers commence to grow smaller, then 
is the logical and proper time to fertilize. Apply 
any good fertilizer broadcast, or any kind of 
manure available, but it is better to make two 
moderate applications than too much at one time. 
FORCING. To produce the finest flowers for 
exhibition purposes. Plant three to five feet apart, 
using a liberal amount of manure or fertilizer; cul¬ 
tivate frequently; apply at each or every other 
hoeing, fertilizer or manure, broad-cast or liquid 
form; and disbud. “Nitrate of Soda” proves very 
effective for forcing; apply in liquid or crystal 
form, when plants are in bud; make applications 
often, but do not use too much at a time. Nitrate 
of Soda is very powerful, and if too much is used 
it will burn up your plants, or force them to such 
an over-growth that the roots will decay during 
the winter. Apply Nitrate of Soda in crystal form 
on top of the ground, or in liquid form, using one 
tablespoonful of Nitrate of Soda crystals to a gal¬ 
lon of water, using sprayer or watering can. 
When the flower buds appear, only one bud 
should be allowed to come to maturity, enabling 
each branch to produce one exceptionally fine, per¬ 
fect flower. The flowers, for quality, must not be 
allowed to receive the drenching rains or scalding 
sun, when nearing full bloom, and should be pro¬ 
tected from such. 
It is always advisable to cut flowers that are to 
be exhibited as late as possible at night, when the 
dew is on them; placing them in water, and keep¬ 
ing them as cool as possible over night, thereby 
enabling them to withstand handling, packing and 
transportation. 
WATERING. Although I wish it understood 
that I do not believe in watering, and find from 
experience it is unnecessary, a judicious watering 
of your plants proves very helpful. Watering 
plants in beds or various places, especially near 
trees, on lawns, along walks, etc., proves beneficial; 
but, when you water, do it thoroughly. It is that 
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