THE ATLANTIC COAST AND ITS CONNECTIONS. 31 
chairs. A tablecloth served also for napkins, and the 
dishes were of many patterns, colors, and degrees of 
dirtiness. It seemed absurd to call for a clean plate ; but 
we did so, to see what would happen. Besides our 
own party of four, we had a padre and an Italian as 
fellow-boarders; and a little observation of the habits 
of these polite friends helped us much in our new 
circumstances. 
A large tame duck used to waddle under my chair, 
and at last would take bits of tortilla from my hand. 
Several mangy dogs and cats had to be driven out when¬ 
ever we sat down to eat; but the hens were not disturbed, 
for they contributed so much to our larder that they 
were privileged, and one nested in an old felt hat on a 
corner shelf, while another came cackling out of one of 
the dark bedrooms that opened on either side. In spite 
of all these drawbacks, we liked the cookery, and did 
ample justice to it. 
As the ancient Romans in their luxury had entertain¬ 
ment for the eye as they reclined at meat, we in our 
simplicity had a constantly moving panorama at our 
street door. Stout Carib women, straight as one could 
wish, walked by, with every burden, however insignifi¬ 
cant, balanced on the head. Half a pound of sugar or a 
dose of salts would be placed above the turban as surely 
as would a heavy jar of water or a house-timber. Some 
fine forms, both of men and women, made part of this 
procession; and the latter wore garments short at either 
end, fastened over one shoulder only, and displaying the 
bust perfectly. A soldier came along once in a while, 
but only his cap and musket told his class. Boys wrest¬ 
ling but seldom fighting, dogs fighting for a bone, all 
