CHAPTER III. 
ACROSS THE CONTINENT, WESTWARD TO COBAN. 
r T^HE last days of October, 1883, promised good weather 
X for the hill-country, and Frank and I again left 
Livingston in the only way one can leave it, — by water. 
Our route was as before, — up the Rio Dulce ; but this time 
we had no comfortable but heavy “ Progreso.” We had, 
however, a better craft for our voyage, — a fine native 
canoa, cut from a single log of a wood they called cedar 
(which it is not); its length was thirty feet, and its beam 
five and a half. With two masts and triangular sails, 
this canoa could show good speed with a fair wind; but 
we cared little for her sailing qualities on the present 
voyage. As there were no ribs, and the thwarts were 
easily removed, we made the after part, which was 
floored, quite comfortable with a temporary roof, or 
toldo; our luggage was stowed amidships, while our 
captain and two men had their quarters forward when 
not rowing or paddling. We had our coffee-pot (as neces¬ 
sary a travelling companion in Central America as an 
umbrella in England) and a supply of food for a week; 
although we hoped our voyage might last less than five 
days. 
The cliffs on the Rio Dulce were as beautiful as ever. 
Theirs is a beauty which never fades with the fading 
year; and yet the changes are very marked. I never 
