ACROSS THE CONTINENT, WESTWARD TO COBAN. 77 
we pleased. Mosquitoes were as bad here as anywhere 
on the Polochic; and while Frank slept on the dining- 
table without a net, I had a very dirty bed and a net 
full of mosquitoes and other things ; so in the morning 
we could not decide which had had the least comfort. 
With light usually comes a more cheerful feeling ; and 
a good breakfast^ to which the officers of the steamer in¬ 
vited us ? made us feel at peace with all men, and I even 
took the trouble to ask if the soldier I had pitched into 
the river was drowned. The rain having ceased; we 
started for the town; ferrying ourselves over the creek in 
an old canoa half full of water. 
As the comandante had not recovered from his over¬ 
night debauch; we went about the little village to do 
some necessary shopping and arrange for our journey 
to Coban. The town was small; but neat and attractive. 
A clear brook ran over a limestone bed, and in one place 
it fell over a ledge into a pool where washing is done 
both of persons and garments. An old Spaniard was 
bathing here; and; although half a dozen women were 
washing clothes or soaking maiz in the same limited 
bath-tub; he invited us to join him. Near by, a man was 
dressing an oxhide by pegging it to the ground and then 
salting the inside. 
At the Comandancia we found; not the chief; who was 
still too drunk; but two very polite officials; with whom 
I had a pleasant chat; I then wrote my name, resi¬ 
dence; and all the titles I could ever lay claim to, as well 
as those of Senor Don Francisco, my u Secretario.” The 
impression was so marked that our lawless neglect of 
Izabal was overlooked, and we were given a full permit to 
land our luggage. Once more we returned to the river, in 
