98 
GUATEMALA. 
serves the species. The wing-coverts and tail-feathers of 
the male are of a superb peacock-green, changing to in¬ 
digo, the inner breast scarlet, and the wings very dark. 
We went to the campo santo, on a hill westward of 
the town, which is reached by a flight of a hundred and 
sixty concrete steps; the whole was built at the cost of 
one pious man. Several shrines on the way up made 
convenient resting-places for those who used those steps, 
— like the Golden Stairs at Rome for knee-worship and 
penance. In one of these shrines was a lamp of native 
make, in form of a bird with many necks. The chapel 
on the top was small, and the doorway so low that 
I struck my head violently in coming from the dark 
interior. 
Except the noble pine-trees on the top, there was 
nothing attractive in this last resting-place. Some grave¬ 
diggers were making merry over a small and shallow 
grave they had just finished, and we gladly turned from 
the calvario to the fine views townward. At night the 
regimental band gave us some agreeable music (perhaps 
national airs, certainly unfamiliar tunes); and as the 
music died away in the distant streets we fell asleep, to 
be awakened at day-break by the drums and fifes calling 
the men of military age to the regular Sunday inspection. 
We were present at the roll-call in the Plaza; and of 
all absurd military sights, this was the chief ! Soldiers 
in every costume and of all sizes stood in line, much as 
they arrived at the rendezvous, and solemnly answered 
to their names. Would that I could present a photo¬ 
graph of this “Falstaff’s Regiment” to my readers! 
After coffee Frank and I went to church. The Indian 
women were all kneeling on the tiled floor, and formed 
