CHAPTER IY. 
FROM COBAN TO QUEZALTENANGO. 
B Y Wednesday we had captured two mules; and 
these, in addition to our mare, — all being well 
shod, — enabled us to leave Coban accompanied by a 
capital mozo de cargo, who carried my photographic outfit. 
Santiago rode one mule, I the other ; and Frank had the 
mare, who was a little wild at first, but soon became 
very tame and attached to us by kind treatment. After 
trying to get away for three days, we started early in 
the morning, and nearly forgot to look at the barometer, 
which was my constant companion ; but after we were 
in the saddle the little dial was consulted, and the needle 
indicated an elevation of forty-four hundred feet. No 
barometer was needed to mark the elevation of our spirits 
on getting on the road again. As far as Santa Cruz 
we retraced our steps. Our mozo kept up with us, car- 
rying our photographic and cooking utensils easily. And 
now this little town, in the early morning, was far more 
attractive than when, wet and hungry, we came to it be¬ 
fore. On this visit there was more to eat, and from*a 
tree by the wayside we bought twenty-five oranges for 
three cents, and also some good bananas. Our breakfast 
was very satisfactory, although eaten in a dirty house full 
of filthy children. At two we started on a good road 
for San Cristobal, where we arrived in an hour and a 
