from quezaltenango to THE PACIFIC. 155 
have been duly baptized into the Church, to induce them 
to act as good citizens and cliristianos. 
The Jefe had promised me his mule, and Frank was to 
have the horse of the alcalde, as his mare, Mabel, had a 
sore back from the breaking of the tenedora, or crupper, 
on the journey to Solola. We secured for a dollar and 
twenty-five cents two mozos to take our luggage — much 
increased in weight by the cloths we had purchased in 
Quezaltenango — as far as Antigua, and at noon we 
started. Frank’s little mare was a character. She took 
the saddle all right; but when he tried to bridle her, she 
rose on her hind-legs and proposed a boxing-match. 
Frank very naturally declined, as he had no fists to match 
hers; and as Santiago and the mozos had been sent ahead, 
we hardly knew what to do, until an old Spaniard kindly 
came to our aid and taught us a trick. He tied some 
rope around the creature’s left ear, — a proceeding to 
which she made not the slightest objection, — and insert¬ 
ing a stout stick and twisting the rope so as to have a 
firm hold of the ear, I was able to keep her down while 
Frank put on the bridle. She was perfectly still as long 
as her ear was in limbo, and did not seem to suffer; but 
it was useless to try to hold her by mane force or by 
the nostrils. Every time she was bridled we had to go 
through the same process. 
We first rode down a very steep grade, sixteen hundred 
feet, to Panajachel, — a pleasing village a league and a 
half from Solola. Here are cultivated fields on the 
borders of the lake far surpassing anything of the kind I 
saw elsewhere in the republic. They are completely irri¬ 
gated by the water of many brooks, some of which make 
cascades by the wayside. Panajachel is the garden of 
