FROM QUEZALTENANGO TO THE PACIFIC. 157 
last to a plain. Here the good resolves never to travel 
in this country after dark, made when we lost the road 
at Encuentros, were renewed and strengthened ; for every 
now and then we saw in the dim gray path what looked 
like ink-puddles, but, to our horror, as we were about to 
ride through one, we found it to be the head of an im¬ 
mense barranca which was gradually 
eating its way into the plain over 
which the road extended. The walls 
of this barranca were perpendicular, 
and apparently thirty yards deep; and 
it was only one of a dozen intersecting 
our path. I have never since then 
passed a dark spot in the road at night 
without thinking of those awful abysses 
lying in wait to entrap the unwary 
traveller. Evidently few here travel after dark. In 
places were hedges of agave, and we saw here and there 
a house; while the barking of dogs became more frequent, 
and we at last, about half-past nine, rode into Patzun. 
We had no little difficulty in finding where the posada 
was; for Santiago, who led Mabel, did not like to leave 
the road, and the burden, as usual, fell on Frank, — who, 
fortunately, was well able to bear it. The inhabitants 
were all in bed; but he at last aroused a man to direct us, 
and we found a good posada, with a comfortable room, 
clean beds, and hot chocolate. 
We slept long, and did not get our early meal until 
eight. Santiago added to his disrepute by failing to find 
any sacate (green fodder) for the animals, while Frank 
found a supply at once. We always had to buy or pay 
separately for our sacate and corn; seldom was either to 
