178 
GUATEMALA. 
as Government offices. This metropolitan cathedral is 
about two hundred and seventy-five feet long, with some 
architectural pretensions, but belittled by its front tow¬ 
ers, which were added a few years ago. The colossal 
statues of the four Evangelists which guard the platform 
in front detract from the effect of a good facade. The 
interior is plain. In a vault beneath the church repose 
the remains of Rafael Carrera, the former President of 
the republic. On the evening of the seventh of Decem¬ 
ber the whole front was illuminated with small lamps in 
honor of the Immaculate Conception. Within was a large 
doll dressed to represent the Virgin Mary, “ sanctissima , 
jpurissima , caramba! — carissima” as we heard a young 
heathen exclaim. She stood on a blue ball spangled 
with stars, and trod the culebra grande as at Escuintla. 
All the choir-boys wore scarlet robes. It seemed as 
though the attendants rather hustled the gauze angels, 
which trod on snakes in imitation of Madonna. The 
other churches were numerous, and the more imposing 
date from the days of the Spanish domination, when all 
good things, including plenty of money, were in priestly 
hands. Perhaps the most curious of all the churches is 
that one on the Cerro del Carmen which antedates the 
city. Santiago carried my camera out to the distant hill, 
from which I not only brought away a picture of the 
church, but also chose that position for a view of the 
city, after patiently waiting for the clouds to roll away 
from the volcanoes of Fuego and Agua. The church it¬ 
self seems more a fortress than a temple of the Prince of 
Peace. The heavy gates stood ajar, and we entered the 
courtyard of two centuries agone. In the midst stood a 
round tower, seemingly solid, and decorated by a filkt 
