GUATEMALA TO ESQUIPULAS. 
199 
pilgrims who journey to the sacred Sanctuario de Esqui- 
pulas. At six o’clock we camped in a fine pine-forest 
high up in the mountains. No human habitation was 
near, but a few cattle were seen here and there. The pas¬ 
turage was good between the scattered trees of this grand 
park. We built a roaring fire, which cast curious shadows 
from the trees, pegged our bestias securely, enjoyed 
a good lomilomi , or Hawaiian massage, and both fell 
asleep. Suddenly I awoke with the strong impression 
that something was wrong. There was no noise, not 
even the cry of a night-bird; only the soft sough of the 
night-breezes in the pine-tops. Frank was breathing 
quietly at my side, the fire was out, and the night was 
cold outside the blankets. As I sat up to look about, a 
dark object caught my eye in the dim distance, and 
without much thought or reason I went towards it, 
simply because I felt impelled to do so. There was no 
consideration of personal danger, but an overpowering 
feeling that all was not as it should be. The first 
thought as I got near the black object, which seemed to 
move towards me, was amusing, — it looked like the 
devil; there were the short, straight horns, the hoofs, 
and I saw the switch of a tail. It was very like a 
dream. I had seen the 66 father of lies ” in many a 
human form, but never so undisguised; and I was filled 
with curiosity. The next moment a joyful hinny dis¬ 
covered our mare Mabel, who recognized me before I 
could plainly see her. Putting my arm around her 
neck, I found the remnant of the horse-hair lariat with 
which Frank had fastened her. I tried to return to 
camp, more than an eighth of a mile away, but could 
not orient myself in the dark, and had to call to Frank. 
