ESQUIPULAS AND QUIKIGUA. 
207 
Incense-burner. 
modern shrine; and Frank found a very curious incense- 
burner, which certainly did not give evidence that the 
second command¬ 
ment had been 
broken. As we 
stayed only an 
hour for our al- 
muerzo and comida 
combined^ we did 
not see much be¬ 
sides the Plaza and 
the main street; 
we followed the 
latter out of the 
town, fording a stream of some size, with gravelly bed 
and bordered with fruit-trees. 
We were now in the picturesque valley of the Hondo, 
— a winding, clean*, and generally rapid stream ; our path 
sometimes crossed it, and again was high above it on the 
cliffs. We passed through San Jacinto about dusk and 
camped a few miles beyond, having to go a long way 
after dark, as both sides of the road were fenced, — 
a most unusual thing. We at last stopped at a very 
unsuitable place, kindled a fire which guided Santiago 
to our camp, and then decided to have our mozo and 
his family w T ith us for an early start in the morning. 
Frank took his revolver and went back nearly two miles, 
where he found the Indio sound asleep in a house. Father, 
mother, and child were quickly routed out, and when 
they came up w r e comforted them with some hot coffee. 
Towards morning it rained, but not through our blankets; 
and before the morning mist had risen quite above the 
