226 
GUATEMALA. 
handled^ I suppose the photographs I took will soon be 
all that is left of them. Clay whistles modelled in 
grotesque form, which also sound three notes, may be 
found to-day in the plazas for sale; hut the material and 
workmanship of these ancient terra-cottas surpasses any 
of the work of modern Indios. 
During the night we were awakened by the noise of 
the surf on the beach ; but when I went out on the 
piazza there was no wind. Before morning the “City of 
Belize”—the very steamer that had nearly finished our 
journey in the Rio Polocliic — arrived from Pansos. At 
daybreak I found that the bats had ruined my raw-hide 
lasso, the reins of my bridle, and had eaten the seeds of 
some toranjas , or shaddocks, which we had carefully 
saved for planting. We hung all these articles from the 
ceiling to avoid rats or cockroaches. 
Frank and Santiago had no end of difficulty in getting 
our animals on board the steamer; but it was done at 
last, as everything else that Frank attempted, and just 
before noon we started, after an excellent breakfast on 
board, in which Senor Gomez, the newly appointed Jefe 
politico, joined us. We were now back to the land of 
rains; and as we steamed across the lake to Santa Cruz 
we had a tropical downpour. As the steamer was out of 
fuel, we coasted the lake to a place about a league above 
Castillo de San Felipe, where, after getting some three 
cords of wood on board, we tied to the trees for the 
night. At daybreak we took on more wood, and then 
went on to the old fort, where the comandante had some 
wood to sell, and used his authority to press the soldiers 
and bystanders to load it. As it was Sunday there were 
plenty of loafers around ; but one dandy who had on a 
