JOS. W. VESTAL (r SOn 
Box 871 'Ij/tL' j-Ccik.. hL-nj) i/. t. 7 ( 
HOW TO GROW ROSES 
For more than sixty-five years Vestal & Son have been growing 
roses for Southern homes and Gardens. Bach plant, each bud has 
received the careful attention which insures sweeter fragrance, 
more delicate coloring and more perfect shape. 
Thousands of garden-lovers throughout the Southland have 
realized the superiority of Vestal Roses. You will find them 
gracing nooks and corners around beautiful homes in many states. 
You will see their rare crimson, pink and yellow tints contrasted 
against the dark green of Vestal shrubs, lifted above the restrained 
hues of Vestal’s Spring flowers. 
With few exceptions. Vestal’s Roses are grown on their own 
roots. Roses of this type are never troubled with wild shoots 
coming up from the roots which most generally is the case with 
grafted or budded plants. Every new cane, whether from below 
or above the ground, will have blossoms of the true variety, so 
in growing own root roses do not be afraid of the strong vigorous 
canes that come up from below the ground; for they are from 
the original plant. 
Another advantage of Vestal Roses is that they are shipped 
with a ball of dirt on the roots. This extra feature enables them 
to be set out with perfect safety at any time. Our two-year 
plants are potted in the early fall, plunged in the ground in cold 
frames outdSdrs during the winter months where they harden and 
mature slowly and evenly. 
One-year roses are greenhouse grown plants and are not sub¬ 
jected to outside weather conditions until planted. For this reason 
they should not be planted out of doors in the open, unless given 
protection, until after severe freezing weather is over. 
WHERE TO PLANT The average home grounds can usually 
furnish several available spaces for rose 
beds. Choose a place where the sun will shine for at least one- 
half the day. and, if possible facing to the South or Southeast. 
Avoid planting too close to trees or hedges as they take the 
nourishment away from the roses. Select a well drained place, 
both surface and underground: roses do not like wet feet. Try 
to combine in your location as many of these conditions as pos¬ 
sible. because, while no point is absolute, all are important; but 
don’t give up the prospect of growing roses for the lack of some 
one of them. If you are earnest in your endeavor you can soon 
provide the essentials. 
SOILS Any soil that will grow vegetables or other crops will 
grow roses, but they like a rather stiff, clay soil that 
is at the same time porous. They will also grow in sandy soils 
to which a portion of clay loam has been added; and likewise, if 
the soil is too heavy, a little sand may be mixed with it for better 
drainage. Some soils are too acid for best results for roses and 
need an application of ground limestone. The application of lime 
will benefit most soils but will not harm any. Apply at the rate 
of one pound per square yard of surface. If hydrated lime is used, 
apply only half as much. 
PREPARING THE SOIL Having selected the location and de¬ 
cided upon the size and shape of your 
beds, you are ready to prepare the soil. The results you obtain 
in growing roses will depend to a great extent on the thorough¬ 
ness of this operation. Eighteen inches is not too deep to spade 
or fork the soil, as the roots of roses often extend even deeper 
than this in their search for food and moisture. After the soil 
has been worked u» level with a rake, at the same time pulveriz¬ 
ing the soil as much as possible to make all the plant food available. 
PLANTING Planting roses is not a serious or complicated job; 
on the other hand, it is amazingly easy. When 
ready to plant remember again that the roots must be kept from 
the wind and sun. The best plan is to keep the roots covered 
with a damp piece of burlap or of other packing material. Un¬ 
wrap each plant just before placing it in the ground. The size 
of the rose bed may be any width, length, or shape as desired, 
but in planting the 
roses allow two and 
one-half to three feel 
apart each way for 
each rose bush. This 
allows plenty of room 
for nronor develop¬ 
ment. If only a 
single row is 
ed. they may 
two feet apart in 
the row and still 
have plenty of room. Too deep Too shallow Just right Right &. banked 
Make the holes in & set wrong for winter 
the bed plenty big enough to accommodate the roots in a natural 
and uncramped position, neither too deep nor too shallow (see 
illustration). If pot-grown roses are being planted, set about 
one inch deeper than the surface of the pot and do not break 
the ball of earth that holds the roots. Settle well pulverized soil 
in around the roots, so as to fill up every air space, and so that 
every single root will be entirely enclosed in soil. When the hole 
is half filled, and roots covered, press the soil down firmly with 
the hands; then fill the hole with water and let it drain away; 
fill in level with soil, and tamp it carefully but firmly, then give 
a final covering of soil, which should be about level with the sur¬ 
rounding turf, but not high enough to let the water run away 
when it rains. 
FERTILIZER Closely related to the preparation of the soil i3 
the proper kind of fertilizer to use. Much has 
been said for and against barn yard manures, but no fertilizer 
has been found that will give better results in growing roses than 
half rotted cow manure; and especially when the rose beds are 
first prepared. A three-inch layer spread on the top of the bed 
and thoroughly mixed with the soil will give wonderful results. 
If barn yard manure is not available, any other good commercial 
fertilizer is the next best. Apply at the rate of two ounces for 
every plant to be planted. Ground bone meal may be worked in 
at the time the roses are set or applied any time thereafter. It 
is slow acting, from which you get results for several months 
and years afterwards. One pound may be applied to every square 
yard of bed surface. If possible, all fertilizers, except those used 
in after years as a food, should be applied several weeks before 
the roses are planted. Roses require liberal applications of fer¬ 
tilizers. and it is not often that two much manures are used. 
However, when manures have been applied for a long number of 
years to the same beds, there is danger of the soil becoming too 
light, and firing or burning of the roses results. 
TIME TO PLANT This depends on the section of the country 
in which you live. With us in the South 
and Southwest, roses may be planted any time from the first of 
October until the first of June, excepting those periods during the 
colder winter months when the ground is frozen. Pot-grown roses 
may be planted at any time of the year if water is available to 
firmly establish them in the ground and allow the new roots to 
take hold. Autumn and early Spring planting of roses, however, is 
preferred because the roots get established before hot weather. 
TREATMENT ON ARRIVAL As soon as you receive the pack¬ 
age from the express office or 
postman, unpack at once and place in a shady place. Do not 
unwrap the roots until ready to plant. Do not expose roots to 
the sun or wind. If unable to plant the roses as soon as they 
arrive, “heel them in’’ in the garden until vou are ready to plant 
them. If “heeled in.” press the soil cover firmly around the roots 
to keep down evaporation. 
CULTIVATION AND WATERING As a general rule. Mother 
Nature attends to her 
job of watering the trees and plants, but weather conditions vary 
and roses need plenty of water as well as sunshine, so it is well 
to aid Mother Nature by man-made methods, and when dry 
weather comes, resort to artificial watering. Make a good job of 
watering your plants. Don’t just soak the surface of the ground 
for an inch or two. Soak the dirt well all the way down below 
the roots. Late afternoon is the best time to water as evaporation 
is not so great as it is during the hotter part of the day. As soon 
as the surface of the bed has dried out enough to allow cultivation, 
scratch the entire surface about an inch deep and leave in a finely 
pulverized condition. Frequent cultivations are more beneficial than 
watering every day. Cultivate at least once a week and oftener 
if possible, and always as soon after watering or a rain as the 
soil is in a condition for cultivation. Keep all weeds and grass 
out of the rose beds and do not plant other flowers in the same 
bed with roses. 
MULCHING This serves to retain the moisture and also to 
preserve a suitable temperature. A dust mulch 
is maintained by frequent hoeing and is perhaps the best method, 
although during the hot months a strawy cow or horse stable 
manure, that will not heat, is very beneficial. Heat moss may be 
applied three or four inches all over the rose beds during the 
summer months. It keeps the soil cooler and stops weed growth. 
This may be removed in the fall to be followed by a mulch of 
manure for winter protection and an early spring feed. 
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