1868.] 
AMERICAN AGPJC ULTURIST, 
167 
spring grain early in the month, with very good re¬ 
sults. Sown alone on well-harrowed follow soil, 
they will do well also. Old “ hide-bouud ” or mossy 
meadows, full of weeds, or bare of grass, may have 
new life put into them by a thorough tearing to 
pieces with a harrow, giving a dressing of 25 or 30 
bushels of lime, followed by yard manure or com¬ 
post, and a fresh seeding with clover and grass. 
Weed*. —The warfare begins this month—push it 
forward. “Whenever you see ahead, hit it,”—as 
is the order of the day at a Donnybrook fair—or 
better yet, wherever you can find a root, kill it. 
Remember, weeds may be killed in the seed-leaf by 
thousands, with the same labor and less thought 
than will be required to kill them by scores after 
they have grown. When very small, even stirring 
the soil in moist weather kills many; when large, 
unless great pains is taken, though up-rooted, 
a slight rain will revive them, and they will 
mature seed as if transplanted for their own good. 
Birds and Insects. —Some birds may still be at¬ 
tracted by bird-houses, though most have their 
nests already built. Do all possible to encourage a 
feeling of security on their part. They are our best 
allies in the warfare against insects of all hurt¬ 
ful kinds. Look out for the nests of the tent- 
caterpillar; destroy when the worms are housed. 
Work isi tlie Horticultural l>e« 
]>artments. 
To the majority of our readers this month will 
bring a press of work. If the season has been an 
early one, the young seedlings of some crops will 
need attention, and if the spring has been a late one, 
with chilly nights and cold rains, much of the work 
set down for last month must be done now. In 
late seasons, nothing is gained by hurrying. Wait 
patiently until the soil is in working condition. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
Tree planting is generally over, but where trees 
have been heeled-in and shaded, they will be in a 
good condition to set out. Observe notes in pre¬ 
vious months on the treatment of nursery trees that 
have become dried or have started in the packages. 
Grafting , if done after growth has commenced, 
will need care not to injure the trees. The bark at 
this time easily slips, and there is danger of peel¬ 
ing it if the limbs are not cautiously managed. 
Cions. —Meehan says that if any valuable cions 
have beeu left over, that could not be used in graft¬ 
ing, they should be set out like cuttings. This will 
keep them plump and moist until the bark will ruu 
on the stocks, when they may be used to furnish 
buds for insertion, just as buds of the present sea¬ 
son’s growth are put iu. Worth remembering. 
Cultivating the Orchard, especially if a young or¬ 
chard, is necessary to get a good thrifty growth. 
Very few will cultivate the ground for the sake of 
the young trees alone, aud it is well to put between 
the rows of trees such crops as require manure 
and frequent working. Potatoes, carrots, or 
whatever will leave the soil in as good condition 
as to fertility as it was before, may be used. 
Mulching cannot be too frequently advocated. It 
prevents the soil from drying and becoming hard, 
and keeps down weeds. Almost any litter will do. 
Leaves from the forest are excellent. Saw-dust is 
sometimes used, but is objected to by some on the 
ground that it undergoes fermentation, and becomes 
sour and injurious to the trees. It will pay to 
mulch bearing pear trees, if for nothing else but to 
save the fallen fruit in good condition. Those near 
the coast use “ salt hay.” Bog hay, sedges, and the 
like, will answer equally well. If no mulch cau be 
had, the next best thing is to stir the surface of the 
soil frequently. The mellow, recently stirred sur¬ 
face soil keeps that below from dryiug rapidly. 
Nursery Trees. —Those budded or grafted last sum¬ 
mer will be disposed to throw out suckers from the 
stock. These arc to be rubbed off as soon as they 
appear; do not let them get large enough to 
require to be cut away. The same care must bo 
given to small or large stocks grafted this spring. 
Seed-beds must be looked to. Young seedlings, 
even those of our hardiest trees, are very readily in¬ 
jured by the hot sun. The beds may be shaded by 
a lattice-work of laths, a rough frame covered with 
evergreen boughs, or any other contrivance may 
be used that will break the force of the sun. 
Insects will begin their work as soon as there is 
any young growth to work on, aud if uot checked 
continue it to the iujury of the trees. Don’t stop 
to write us, to ask what shall be done, but kill the 
insects when first discovered, by some means. We 
have written in these past years enough about the 
tent-caterpillar to fill a small volume. We have 
shown its eggs, and set forth the importance of re¬ 
moving these. Where this has been thoroughly 
done, there will be but little trouble. Where it has 
been neglected, they will not “ fold up their tents 
like the Arabs,” but keep spreading them all the 
time. Wherever a nest or tent is seen, no matter 
how small—and they are very conspicuous when the 
dew is on them in the morning—do not rest until 
the nestis destroyed. Bend down the limb, climb 
the tree, get a step-ladder, or iu some way reach the 
nest, and pull it out aud crush the young brood. 
Some use swabs charged with soft soap, petroleum, 
or other substances. These will do if faithfully ap¬ 
plied, but to our notion there is nothing as sure as 
pulling the nest off by hand, and putting it uuder 
foot. The squeamish may wear gloves. Borers are 
to be probed or cut out. We haven’t much faith 
in squirting any preparation into their holes. The 
curculio will now begin its work, and must be met 
at once. Avoid all vaunted remedies and washes, 
but follow the only sure plan yet known—jarring 
the trees, catching the insect on a large cloth, and 
killing it. The white grub will often make sad 
havoc among seedlings and young nursery stock. 
When a young tree iu the row wilts, dig down and 
find the borer and kill him. Lice or aphides will 
appear on the young growth. If the trees are small, 
bend down the ends of the infested twigs, and im¬ 
merse them in tobacco water or quassia water. 
Fruit Garden. 
Many of the hints given in this and the previous 
months, under the head of “ Orchard aud Nursery,” 
have an application here, and need not be repeated. 
Finish up all uncompleted planting, and keep the 
surface of the soil always free from weeds. A 
pronged hoe, or hoe-fork—especially IJexamer’s 
—will be found preferable to the common hoc. 
Grape Vines. —So much was said last month iu an 
article on the vine, concerning the treatment of 
young vines, that we need only refer to that, and 
to an article in this paper, on page 186, for all need¬ 
ed directions. If vines removed from the trellis 
are yet to be fastened up, they will need careful 
handling after the buds have started. Vines trained 
with arms should be curved, i. e. the extreme ends 
of the arm bent downwards to insure an equal start¬ 
ing of the buds along the whole length of the arm. 
Vines may readily be propagated by putting down 
Layers of last year’s wood. Make a well-prepared 
trench, 6 inches deep, and lay the cane down in it, 
and hold it there by means of pegs. As the shoots 
start, gradually fill the trench, by adding soil. 
Currants. —Keep the ground clean or well mulch¬ 
ed. The principal insect enemies to currant 
culture are sufficiently treated of on page 185. 
Strawberries.—' Though late, these may still be 
planted, and better than iu autumn. Plants set this 
spring are often disposed to bear. It is better to 
remove all the flower-stalks, and let the plant be 
preparing for a good crop next year rather than 
waste its strength in perfecting a few berries. Put 
on a mulch of straw, bog hay, or corn stalks, before 
the fruit begins to ripen. Saw-dust and tan soil 
the fruit, and thus defeat one of the objects of 
mulching. Where the beds are not mulched, keep 
them clean, and do not disturb the roots iu work¬ 
ing. If any hoeing is to be done, let it be only on 
the surface. Pull up all the large weeds by hand. 
Picking and marketing should be provided for. 
Baskets and crates should be bought and marked. 
Recollect that these things sometimes fail to be 
promptly returned, and it is necessary to guard 
against a short supply of packages by providing an 
abundant stock. Wc cannot reply to the question, 
“Which is the best basket?” as the customs and 
prejudices of different markets vary so much. The 
commission dealer is the best judge of the basket 
which meets with the most favor from buyers. 
Insects will infest the fruit garden. Some of these 
have been mentioned elsewhere. Those which 
trouble the grape vine at this season are mainly 
the flea-beetle and the rose-bug. They are both 
regular “ hard shells,” and do not seem to yield to 
ordinary treatment. The flea-beetle does its work 
on the buds, and the rose-bug is mainly destructive 
to the blossoms of the vine. As yet, hand picking 
is the only known help; or, what is the same thing, 
they may be shaken off when torpid, early in the 
morning, and caught ou a cloth. One who is con¬ 
stantly among his vines can do a great deal of 
thumb and finger work in destroying insects and 
their eggs. The leaf-rolling caterpillar must be 
treated by hand, as it is shielded from any liquids. 
Kitchen Garden. 
This month usually brings the first products of 
the garden. Those who had the forethought to 
have winter spinach, have enjoyed that delicious 
vegetable ever since the snow disappeared, and so 
with salsify, horseradish, and others. But from 
this spring’s sowing, even in the most favorable 
situations, radishes, lettuce, cress, and, it may be, 
early turnips and carrots, are the first returns re¬ 
ceived from early sown seed. To our notion, no 
vegetable that comes afterwards—is eaten with 
half the zest as these, the first fruits of the garden; 
Asparagus. —It is a good thing to have a bed just 
now; it, like all other good things, costs some 
trouble and forethought, but whoever has an estab¬ 
lished bed has a ready supply of a most delicious 
and healthful vegetable. Cut according to the 
weather, once iu two or three days, or even daily. 
Use a sharp knife, and be careful not to injure the 
numerous buds still ou the plant. The beetle is so 
destructive in some localities that asparagus has 
been abandoned. Its caterpillar is small, blackish, 
and about half an inch long. An experienced cul¬ 
tivator tells us that a dusting of air-shaked lime 
will kill them. If this does not answer, cut and 
burn every shoot, large or small, that is infested. 
No half-way measures will answer iu this case. 
Beans. —Plaut as soon as danger of frost is over. 
If the first planting has done well, put in another 
for succession ; if it failed, replant. Limas should 
not be put in the ground until the cold rains are 
over. Set poles 6 or 8 feet high, 4 feet apart each 
way, in warm, light, rich ground, Put 5 or 6 beaus 
arouud each pole, pressing them into the soil eye 
downward, and covering an inch. Limas that have 
been started in hot-beds on sods, may be set in 
the open ground as soon as the weather is settled-. 
Beets and Can-ots.— Those sown early are to be 
weeded and thinned. See article on page 188. Sow- 
ing may still be done. Where the ground is mod¬ 
erately moist, it is sometimes an advantage to 
sprout the seeds. Soak them iu water over night; 
pour off the water, and keep the moist seeds cover¬ 
ed in a warm place until they sprout. When the 
germ shows itself, dry off with plaster, and sow; 
Cabbages, Cauliflowers, aud the less cultivated Broc¬ 
coli, Brussels Sprouts, and Kohlrabi, are to have 
much the same treatment. Kohlrabi does best sown 
in place, and the others transplanted. The early 
crop should now be ■well started, and will need fre¬ 
quent hoeing. A heavy sharp rake or a hoe fork is 
better to work among the plants than an ordinary 
hoe. Keep the ground stirred often, and the weeds 
will be kept down. If insects appear, use lime. Sow 
seeds of early and late sorts in open ground. Wiu- 
ningstadt is one of the best medium. Do not for¬ 
get to have a plenty of the delicious Savoys. 
Celery.— Sow, if not already done. As soon as the 
plants are large enough, keep them weeded, and 
the soil loose around them. Turnip-rooted celery, 
prized by many for soups and salads, may be sown. 
Cress or Upper grass is to be sown every week, 
