1868.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
207 
with barrows, cultivators, or plows. The two-horse 
eultivatoi-s are fast taking the place of hovse-lioes 
of the old patterns, and greatly simplify the oper¬ 
ation of hoeing corn, by leaving so little for the 
hand hoes to do. The harrow should boused upon 
potatoes until they are fairly up, and the field is 
green. After this, light plows and cultivators do 
the work, There is no crop which requires more 
thorough weeding than potatoes, and none more 
generally neglected and more damaged by them. 
Worlc isa Hike Horticultural 8>e- 
pariinentj«. 
It usually makes hut little difference how un¬ 
favorable the spring months have been, the middle 
of Juue generally brings matters in the different 
departments to about the same point. The skillful 
gardener will have replanted where the cold rains 
have brought failures, and made up by extra 
care the delays caused by untoward weather. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
Shoots will push on old and young trees just 
where limbs are not wanted. Remember that the 
now tender shoot will soon be a hard, woodj r 
branch. A slight rub will now remove it, but if 
left a year, the knife must be used. Rub off 
these shoots when young and save cutting hereafter. 
Pruning may be done this month, especially if 
large limbs are to be removed. Cut the limb close 
to tiie one from which it starts, and do not leave 
any stubs. Pare the wounds smooth, and brush 
them over with melted grafting wax. 
Grafts will need looking to, and if two were in¬ 
serted where one would be better, remove one of 
them. If some of the shoots on a graft are getting 
the advantage of the others, pinch them back.— 
Budded Stocks will often push such vigorous 
shoots as to need staking until they become strong. 
Cultivation in the orchard has a twofold effect—it 
destroys the weeds, and leaves the surface in that 
light, mellow condition which enables it to answer 
the purposes of a mulch. Young orchards, with 
crops between the rows, should be cultivated with 
as much an eye to the trees as to the crops. 
Mulching around newly planted trees should be 
put on before dry weather comes ou. It is espe¬ 
cially beneficial to cherries and other stone fruits. 
Seed-Bccls will need shading, as noted last month. 
Young evergreens will often rot or “ damp off,” 
without any manifest cause. Sprinkling fine sand 
or dry earth over the bed will often check it. 
Nursery Stocks , intended for budding, should be 
kept in growing condition by good cultivation. 
Thin the Fruit. —It is not often that this is done 
as thoroughly as it should be, and it is seldom that a 
tree bears a decent crop which would not have been 
better had half of the young fruit been removed. 
Bisects will demand attention this mouth. See 
notes given in May. One great trouble with insects 
is that thej' are left too long without molestation, 
and most people do not notice their ravages until 
the mischief is done. Whoever loves trees will be 
frequently among them, and observe the condition 
of each. A colony of caterpillars may often be 
disposed of in a few minutes, which, if left for a 
week, would prove a troublesome enemy. 
Borers mostly lay their eggs this month ; these 
are usually deposited on the bark of the tree near 
the ground, and the young grubs when hatched 
eat their way into the tree. Be sure that there are 
no grubs already in the tree, and some of the many 
preventives may be used. One of the most efficient 
of these is to wrap the trunk at the base with stiff 
paper, drawing away the earth around the tree, 
and replacing it to cover the lower edge of the 
paper. We have already given other expedients. 
Curculio is only effectually managed by jarring 
the trees and catching the insects. On large trees 
a limb may be sawn off, to leave a stub which may 
be struck with a wooden mallet, but small trees 
can be easily shaken by a sudden jar with the hand. 
The Slug which appears on the leaves of pear 
and cherry trees is killed by dusting with air-slaked 
lime; it is said on good authority that dry dust 
of anj r kind will answer the same purpose. 
Plant-Lice, often troublesome on trees, are killed 
by the use of an infusion of tobacco or of quassia. 
Fruit Ciarden. 
The Bisects mentioned above, and others, will need 
close attention here ; they are more easily managed 
in the fruit garden, as the trees are, or should be, 
dwarfs. Much can be done by hand-picking, 
which is, indeed, the only way of managing some 
of the larger ones that infest the grape. 
Currants will need care to protect them from 
the currant worm. See article on page 185, last 
month. Many useless shoots will appear upon 
the bushes, which may be rubbed out. Green cur¬ 
rants often bring a higher price than ripe ones, 
and where this is the case it is better to dispose 
of a portion of the crop in the green state. 
Strawberries will now demand attention. The 
rows should be mulched, if not already done. Straw 
or coarse hay is best. Saw-dust and tan-bark soil 
the fruit. Keep the runners cut where close cult¬ 
ure is practised, and pull up large weeds. Some 
hints on picking are given on page 224. 
Blackberry Bushes should have the new growth 
pinched at the higlit of 4 or 5 feet, to make them 
throw out side branches for next year’s fruiting. 
Grape Vines .—The management of young vines 
has been sufficiently treated of in articles upon the 
grape in the preceding numbers. The future suc¬ 
cess of the vine depends upon getting a good strong 
cane to start with, and already sufficient directions 
have been given for securing this. Superfluous 
buds will appear, which should be rubbed off 
Young vines will be apt to be injured from over¬ 
bearing, and one or two bunches are enough to a 
cane. If mildew appears, use sulphur. Keep the 
young growth carefully tied up to the trellis. 
MiScIaens C>5siu*«len. 
Do not let disappointment from rotting of seeds, 
killing by late frosts, or bad luck of any kind, pre¬ 
vent from trying again. Those who have been 
deterred, by a press of work, from giving proper 
attention to the garden, can do considerable even 
now. It is true, the products will not be early, but 
they will be better than none. Seeds sown in the 
warm soil come on rapidly, and with a little exertion 
Tomato, Cabbage, Pepper, and other plants, can be 
had, and a pretty fair family garden yet be enjoyed. 
Asparagus. —The rule is to stop cutting when 
peas become plenty. If the bed has become weedy, 
hoe it, over carefully, give a dressing of manure 
or compost, and let the plants grow. 
Beans .—Plant succession crops of bush beans. 
It is early enough in most places for Limas, on 
the cultivation of which see note on page 225. 
Beets and Carrots. —Thin and weed. See article 
on the subject last month, on page 188. The thin¬ 
nings of beets are excellent to u$e as “greens.” 
Cabbages .—The early sorts, in the best-managed 
gardens are ready for use or sale this month, but 
in most family gardens there are no facilities for 
early plants, and those from an open air seed-bed 
are now transplanted. Keep the ground loose 
among young plants by the use of the rake. If the 
plants are troubled by cut-worms, look for their 
holes (usually covered by a leaf) and dig them out. 
Celery. —The seedlings should be thinned and 
weeded. Henderson, in his article on celery, recom¬ 
mends shearing off the tops of the young plants, to 
make them grow stocky. The main crop is best 
set in July, but early plants may be set in well- 
manured trenches as soon as large enough. 
Corn. —Sow at intervals of two weeks, and have 
a good supply for drying for winter use. 
Capsicums or Peppers .—Put out in a well-manured 
bed in a warm place, and give good cultivation. 
Set in rows 2 feet apart and 15 inches between. 
Cucumbers. —Set out the plants started under 
glass, and sow seeds in the open ground in well- 
manured hills, which should be about four feet 
apart. Keep off the striped bug by some of the 
means mentioned in the article on page 222; 
Egg Plants. —These are warm weather fellows, 
and do but little until the soil has become well 
heated. Give a rich spot, hoe often, and eacli plant 
may yield six or eight large fruits, or only one. 
Endive. —Sow for a late supply, and transplant, 
when large enough, to a foot apart each way. 
Lettuce .—The India is the best sort for summer use. 
Melons arc to be treated as directed for cucumbers. 
Onions .—Keep clear of weeds, and thin. It pays 
to sell onions long before they are ripe. 
Parsnips. —Thin and hoe, and keep the bed clear 
of weeds until the leaves meet between the rows. 
Peas in field culture simply have the earth drawn 
towards the vines to form a ridge. Put brush early to 
the tall-growing sorts, and plant succession crops. 
Radishes, if relished so late in the season, may 
be sown at intervals of a week in unoccupied spots. 
Rhubarb should not be pulled so freely when 
fruits come; let the plants recover. Cut the flower 
stalks as soon as they appear. 
Ruta-Bagas, if sown in the garden, may be put in 
at the end of the month. Dust with plaster and 
ashes or lime as soon as the plants are up. 
Salsify, a most excellent vegetable and often called 
“ Oyster Plant,” is grown in the same way as car¬ 
rots. It is not too late to sow seed this month. 
Spinach. —A succession crop may now be sown. 
Squashes .—Treat the bush sorts as directed for 
cucumbers. Winter varieties must have room to 
run; give them plenty of manure; put in hills, 8 
feet apart each way ; keep off striped bugs as direct¬ 
ed on page 222; hand-pick squash-bugs; keep the 
ground clean until the plants take possession of 
the soil, after which do not disturb them. 
Sweet Potatoes. —At the North it is not too late to 
plant in well-manured ridges,as directed last month. 
Tomatoes. —Set out, if not already done. Iu field 
culture the plants get no support, but in gardens 
it conduces to neatness and fruitfulness to have 
some kind of trellis. One cheap form for individual 
plants was given iu last mouth’s “Basket.” 
Weeds will need constant attention; they are 
easily managed when young, and are very stubborn 
when large. The free use of the rake or the prong¬ 
ed hoe will keep the garden in order, with 
much less trouble than a periodical spell of hoeing. 
Flower harden and JLsiwsi. 
The tender annuals sown the first of June will 
do quite as well, or better, than if put in the ground 
earlier. So with the majority of bedding plants, 
which are often seriously checked in their growth 
by chilly nights, and arc a long while in recovering. 
Green-House and other plants in pots are often 
used with good effect in decorating the grounds. 
They may be turned out of their pots into the bor¬ 
der, or the pots may be plunged up to their rims. 
In the latter ease, put some coal ashes under the 
pot, to prevent worms from finding their way in. 
Oleanders, Oranges, Crape Myrtles, and such shrubs, 
may be turned out with benefit, provided they are 
taken up and potted early enough in the fall. 
Fuchsias make good border plants if they have 
been grown sufficiently tall, and are placed where 
they will have shade in the hotter portionsof the day. 
Bulbs. —To have the best flowers of Hyacinths 
and Tulips, the bulbs should be taken up when the 
foliage begins to wither, dried, and kept until time 
to plant in fall; but in most gardens where special 
care is not given they are left out for several years, 
the bloom decreasing in size and beauty each year. 
Annuals. —Transplant or thin out the seedlings. 
Many kinds will do well if planted now. We gave 
a list of good sorts ou page 187, last month. 
Roses of the perpetual sorts should have the faded 
flowers removed, and their small branches shorten¬ 
ed, to induce a new crop of flowers. Slugs must 
be treated to whale-oil or cresylic soap. Train up 
some strong shoots of the climbing varieties to re- 
