Schling’s Choice Flower Seeds 
Toassist in making selections, our Flower Seeds are grouped under three separate headings: 
1. Annuals.—Flowers which bloom from seed the first season and last but one year. 
2. Hardy Perennials.—Plants which are hardy, and will last for years. 
3. Greenhouse Plants.—Tender plants suital)le for pot culture in the greenhouse. 
How to Grow Annual Flowers from Seed 
All annual flowers are easily and most successfully grown from seed. In buying flower seeds it is a matter of 
greatest importance to you to know that the seeds you are getting have been produced from the best plants— 
those bearing the finest flowers. It is only through great care in breeding, constant and most careful reselection, 
that plants and flowers are brought up to and kept at a high standard of perfection. Our seeds are secured only 
from such strains. 
Sowing of Annuals 
All annuals can be sown in the garden in May when the ground is warm, either in a seed-bed or directly in the 
spaces where they arc to grow. There are some annuals, such as Poppies, Eschscholtzia, Mignonette, Centaurea, 
and the like, which, on account of lack of fibrous roots, cannot be transplanted without a great set-back to the 
plant. These should be sown, either broadcast or in rows, in the location desired. Most of the annual flowers, 
however, benefit by being transplanted, as it develops for them a better root-system. These are better started in 
a coldframe or a specially prepared seed-bed of rich soil, deeply dug and finely sifted on top. Sow the seed in shal¬ 
low drills or in squares of a convenient size, partitioned off with laths. Most flower seeds are small and can only 
be covered with about J^inch of soil; the very fine seeds are simply pressed into the soil. Water carefully through 
a fine rose so as not to wash the seed out and keep the soil moist constantly. On warm, sunny days some shade 
should be given during midday. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be transplanted 1 inch 
apart into another seed-bed, or if they are not too close together, they may be left in the original bed until large 
enough to transplant into permanent places. Always remember that flowers need rich soil, an open sunny situation, 
and sufficient space between plants for proper development. 
Starting Seeds in Hotbeds and Greenhouses 
Snapdragons, Stocks, Asters, Begonias, Carnations, Celosia, Cosmos, Cobsea, Dahlias, Dianthus, Heliotrope, 
Loljelia, Pansies, Myosotis, Petunias, Phlox, Salpiglossis, Salvia, Vinca, Verbena, if sown outside do not bloom 
until quite late in the summer, but you can have them early if you sow the seed in the hotbed. March is the best 
time to sow, except for Lobelias, Begonias, and Stocks, which can be started as early as February. Sow either directly 
in the hotbed in shallow drills or in pans or boxes. The soil should be light, finely sifted, and well watered before 
sowing. Scatter seeds evenly, but not too thinly. Even here it is to be remembered that “in union there is strength,” 
for the fine seeds especially, when sown too thin, very often have not the strength singly to break through the soil. 
After sowing press the soil down with a flat board and cover the boxes or pans with newspaper to prevent too 
rapid evaporation. This covering must be removed as soon as the seedlings are up. Always water through a fine 
rose, and only when necessary, with tepid water and as much as possible in the forenoon or midday on bright 
sunny days, for if the soil is too wet over night, the small seedlings will become chilled and damp or rot off. When 
seedlings have four leaves, transplant in similar boxes 1 inch apart or singly into small pots (paper pots are excel¬ 
lent for this purpose). Ventilate more or less according to the weather and gradually harden the plants, preparatory 
to setting them out when all danger of frost is past and the soil is warm. Cultivate frequently; hoe your beds 
often; and stimulate plant growth by applying a top dressing of a good fertilizer at frequent intervals. This will 
keep up a steady, vigorous, healthy growth. Keep seed-pods removed; never allow withered flowers to remain 
on the plants if you want them to bloom right through the season. We give complete and specific cultural 
directions on each package of our flower seeds. 
Showing how a hotbed is made 
Space at highest part 12 in., lowest 
part 6 in., depth of soil 4 in., depth 
of manure 2 ft. 
THE HOTBED. March 1 is early enough to start one. Excavate to a 
depth of 2J^ feet, fill with 2 feet of fresh horse-manure, to supply heat; tramp 
it down solid. Set your frame on the manure and bank up with soil all around 
the outside to make it air-tight. Inside, place on top of the manure from 4 to 
5 inches of loose, mellow soil. Level it nicely and cover frame with sashes. 
Plunge a thermometer into the soil to test the temperature, which may rise 
above 100 degrees in a few days. When 
it recedes to about 90 degrees the bed 
is ready for seeding. 
THE COLDFRAME. Same direc¬ 
tions as for the hotbed, except for the 
manure, only you cannot start so early, 
as you have no artificial heat; wait 
until the sun gives more warmth. The 
last week of March or April 1 is a safe 
time to start to sow the coldframe. 
Showing how a coldframe is made 
Space at highest part 12 in., space 
at lowest part 6 in., depth of soil 5 in. 
Everhot Electric Hotbed Heaters. 
Electricity germinates seeds more quickly than can manure. 
It is cleaner to use and comparatively economical. 
Here is a permanent installation, always ready for use, and 
dependably efficient. Problems of ammonia fumes, drainage, 
and radical climatic changes are entirely eliminated through 
the use of electricity. 
To prepare an 
electric hotbed, the 
soil is excavated for 
a depth of from 12 
to 18 inches and 
filled with cinders. 
Then cover the cin¬ 
ders with a thin 
layer of sand. Dis¬ 
tribute the wire of the Everhot Heater over the sand. Place frame and sash in position. 
Attach terminal box to frame. Fill the frame v^th 6 inches or more of soil over the lead 
cable. Connect the Heater cord to lighting circuit. 
Model 610. For 3 X 6-foot frame (120 watts) $4.50. Model 615. For G X 6-foot frame (240 watts) $6.50. 
Model 611. For 3 X 6-foot frame, with Thermostat, $9,50. Model 616. For 6 X 6-foot frame, with Thermostat, $11.50. 
The outfits consist of lead-covered resistance wire, connected with a waterproof and rust-resisting terminal box. A rubber- 
covered Heater cord with connector leads out of the box and is for connection with the lighting circuit. 
Does your soil need lime? Hellige Soil-Tester tells you. See page 103 
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