Sweet Peas and How To Grow Them 
Since the introduction of the Countess Spencer variety in 1904, Sweet Peas have undergone the most 
remarkable improvement in both form and size, as well as the number of flowers carried on a stem, and today 
we have the wonderful long-stemmed Spencer varieties carrj’ing from three to four and even five gigantic 
flowers, often measuring 2 inches and more across, beautifully waved and frilled. With this improvement 
naturally has come renewed interest in this lovely 
flower, and now a row of fine Sweet Peas in his garden 
is the pride of every garden-lover. 
While Sweet Peas are of comparatively easy culture 
if their requirements are understood and followed, there 
are, nevertheless, many failures reported every year, 
and the question is often asked, “Can we really grow 
fine Sweet Peas in our own gardens?” There is no ques¬ 
tion but that we can if we know and follow the require¬ 
ments. It is often said that Sweet Peas will not grow in 
this or that locality or that the soil is not suited. This 
is a mistake. We can all grow fine Sweet Peas with 
lovely long stems if soil and growing conditions are right, 
and it is within our power to make them right, 
SO if you have been disappointed take new cour¬ 
age and try again. 
The absolute essentials are: 
First. Good seed. 
Second. Rich soil, deeply dug. 
Third. Early sowing. 
Fourth. Early staking. 
Fifth. Frequent stimulation to insure healthy, 
rapid, and continuous growth. 
Sixth. Frequent use of hoe or cultivator to keep 
the soil loose and porous. 
Sow early. The moment the ground can be worked, select 
an open, sunny spot in the richest part of the garden, and when 
you have decided how long the row shall be, apply a thick layer 
of well-rotted barnyard manure or cow manure (3 to 4 inches 
thick is none too much) about 18 inches wide. Remember that 
Sweet Peas are deep-rooting plants, so the soil must be deeply 
and thoroughly worked. Spade the manure in as deep as the fork 
w'ill go and turn the soil over three or four times, so that the 
manure becomes thoroughly mixed with it, then 
level, and your bed is ready for planting. Sow in 
double rows, that is, open two drills to about 8 to 
10 inches apart and from 4 to 5 inches deep and 
scatter the seed liberally, but not too thick (about 
1 ounce to 15 running feet), then cover. The 
brush, or whatever support you wish to give, is 
placed in the center of the two rows to act as a 
support to which the vines from both sides can 
cling. Stake early. This support should be in 
place as soon as the seed breaks through the soil so 
that the plants can cling to it as soon as the small 
tendrils form, for nothing checks the vines quicker 
than to allow them to sprawl all over the ground looking for support without finding it. 
Success with Sweet Peas necessitates a rapid, healthy, and vigorous growth, and your plants must 
be thoroughly and deeply rooted and must make this growth during the cool weather of April and early May, so 
we must take care that the plants do not become checked at any time. Usually, the latter part of April or the 
first part of May, when your plants are about 2 inches high, they will be in the greatest need of your help, for this is 
the most critical period, and success depends much on your action at this time. Usually the first part of May 
brings its frequent weather changes—cold rains and cold nights—all inducive to check and set back the plant. 
To overcome this, a quick-acting stimulant should be applied. Nitrate (Floranid) is best. 5 lbs. 90 cts. It is 
quickly soluble, containing 46 per cent available nitrogen for the roots to take up. Dilute at the rate of a 
teaspoonful to a pail of water (about 3 gallons) and pour along both sides of the rows, about 6 inches away 
from the plants. Repeat this again in two weeks, but do not touch the vines with this solution or you will 
burn or spot the foliage. 
Sweet Peas require moisture and sufficient plant-food at all times, and you will find that a top-dressing of sheep 
manure or bone-meal, applied regularly eveiy two weeks and hoed in, will help greatly to produce strong, healthy 
vines. When the Sweet Peas are nearly their full height, and when the dry weather sets in, it is well to mulch the 
soil with salt hay or grass clippings. This will preserve the moisture in the ground and keep the soil from bak¬ 
ing. If watering is necessary do it thoroughly. If you simply sprinkle the top of the ground, the result will be 
that the feeding roots will turn upward for this moisture and will afterward be dried up by the sun, but, if you 
water thoroughly, the roots will penetrate deep into the soil. 
Assuming that the ground has been well manured from the start and that a top-dressing of fertilizer has been 
given regularly, you will have a good, healthy, rapid growth—strong, robust vines about 3 to 4 feet high before 
the buds begin to show, and you can count on fine flowers with long stems. 
Of course, we all know that dead flowers should not be allowed to remain on the vine, for if you allow seed-pods 
to form, they will shorten the life of the plant very quickly. The more you pick, the more flowers you will have, 
and remember to stimulate regularly and you will have fine blooms for a long period. If you grow for exhibition 
and wish to get some real early blooms, sow from two to three seeds in small pots of rich soil in the house in Mareh 
and set the plants out in April and then follow directions ^ given above. 
About the only insect that is liable to cause serious injury is the aphis or green fly. Being the color of the foliage. 
New Improved Spencer 
Sweet Peas 
78 Sanitary Balsam Wool Tree-Bands stop caterpillars from crawling up your trees. See page 109 
