GRAFTING 
There are many different reasons for the grafting of one 
species of cactus upon a different species but it is generally done to 
produce a stronger and more rapid growth and an increased flower 
production in the grafted species. The operation is simple and if done 
with accuracy, rapidity and cleanliness is almost uniformly succes.s- 
ful. A very sharp, thin-bladed knife, a few cactus spines and some 
small rubber bands are the only implements needed. 
The host plant is called the stock and the plant grafted into 
it is called the scion. The main requirement for success is to get-and 
to maintain-for a week or two an exact approximation between the 
freshly cut surfaces of stock and scion so that they unite exactly as 
do the edges of a cleancut flesh-wound when properly sutured. In 
grafting one of the globular cacti on a cylindrical species, such as 
Trichocereus spachianus or Acanthocereus pentagonus, select a stock 
of approximately' the same diameter as the scion and cut it squarely 
across at right angles to the line of growth with one sweep of the 
knife. Cut off the base of the scion in the same manner and place 
the two cut surfaces together immediately and skewer the scion to 
the stock securely with two or three long slender spines. Pass the 
rubber band around the base of the stock bringing one end through 
the other, draw tight and bring the resulting loop up over the top 
of the scion so that it holds the scion tightly against the stock. Two 
or more bands may be used if necessary to an exact and firm approxi¬ 
mation. Most stocks have sufficient spines to hold the lower loop 
from slipping upward and the spines, ribs, nipples or irregularities 
bn the upper surface of the scion are enough to prevent the upper 
loop from slipping off. I prefer the rubber bands to twine as their 
elasticity keeps up a steady pressure while the twine may stretch, 
also the contraction of the rubber compensates for the slight shrinkage 
of the two cut surfaces and holds them together steadily and con¬ 
tinually. In this type of grafting I have not found it necessary to 
protect the top of the scion with a pad of cork or paper. 
Other forms of grafting are the “stab graft”, the “saddle graft” 
and the “wedge graft”. The stab graft is used in grafting one of 
the thicker cacti upon a slender and more or less woody stock such 
as Pereskia pereskia the diameter of the scion being double or more 
that of the stock. In this case the tip of the stock is shaved down on 
either side into a thin slender wedge and forced into the scion until 
the cut surface is completely buried. In scions with a thick and hard 
outer surface it is better to make a slight incision to facilitate the 
entrance of the wedge. One spine through scion and stock is suffi¬ 
cient to hold this graft. 
In case the scion and stock are of about the .same diameter 
the saddle graft may be used. This is very similar to the stab graft 
but with a wedge corresponding to the wedge on the stock cut out 
of the end of scion. One spine through scion and stock is required 
and the base of the scion should be firmly bound with a rubber band 
both above and below the spine. 
The wedge gna.ft is the reverse of the saddle graft, the end of 
ihe sci'on is given the wedge shape and inserted into a corresponding 
cut in the stock, the rubber band being placed around the upper end 
of the stock. In grafting some of the ,very thin species, Epiphyllums 
Zygocactus, Schlumbergeras etc., it may not be necessary to do more 
than make a straight cut in the stock but the scion should always be 
shaved down to a fine edge. 
A very satisfactory variation of the wedge graft requires a spe¬ 
cial knife made somewhat like the old fashioned apple-corer but tap¬ 
ering to a slender point. With this knife a slender cone is cut from 
the top of the stock, the scion sharpened like a lead pencil, inserted 
and held by a spine. This is a very satisfactoiT method to use in 
grafting Wilcoxias, Rhipsalis and other vei’y slender species. No wax 
is needed in cactus grafting but for some time I bave practiced sprinkl¬ 
ing Seniesan saturated sand over all exposed cut surfaces and believe 
it has a very marked effect in prevention of rot. 
>r 
Do not allow water to come in contact with fresh grafts and 
keep them in the shade for the first week. The rubber bands may be 
removed in from four to seven days but unless they show evidence 
of being too tight and strangling the plant it will do no harm to leave 
them longer. 
Almost any cactus will “take” if grafted on a species of its 
own genus or of a genus further back in the evolutionary chain. Most 
species take well on Pereskias, Epiphyllums thrive wonderfully on Nm 
paleas and the rank growing Opuntias. Trichocereus spachianus and 
Nyctocereus serpentinus are excellent stock for Echinocerei, Echin- 
opses, Coryphanthas and Neomammillarias. Wilcoxias and Peniocereus 
greggii grow rapidly on Harrisia martini. The most satisfactory stock 
that I have found for all purposes is Acanthocereus pentagonus. 
W. E. Lowry, Sr., M. D. 
PAGE 20. 
