8 
ALLEN’S BOOK OF BERRIES—1921 
We cannot emphasize too strongly the importance of planting 
early. In this section the last two weeks in March are the ideal 
planting days. We cannot get our entire plantings out during 
those two weeks, but the ones we do get out then always start 
quicker, grow better and make better beds than those planted 
later unless conditions are very favorable. 
Early Planting will pay big. We know this because with our 
large plantings we cannot get them all set at the ideal time. 
Often an advantage of ten days to two weeks in time of planting 
will more than offset the benefits'of a good dressing of fertilizer 
on later plantings. This is not theory. It has happened in 
our experience a number of times. It was true this year. 
When a plant grower in the latitude of New York or Massachu¬ 
setts can dig plants, berry growers in those sections should be 
setting their plants. This is a big advantage we can give growers 
in those latitudes. We can dig and ship plants earlier and have 
them right at hand for early planting. 
Setting the Plants. Just before planting, the ground should 
be harrowed and made as level as possible. Then mark out the 
rows and you are ready to plant. There are a number of different 
methods of,planting, but an ordinary garden or trowel or a flat 
dibble are tfie best tools to use. Whatever tool is used try to have 
the roots of the plant spread out fan-shaped, and be sure to have 
the crown at the surface of the ground—not below nor above. 
In some sections where large acreages are planted, a small 
three furrowed list or row is run up with a plow and then leveled 
off with a rake or drag. This gives a nice soft planting bed, but 
unless the ground is quite moist the rows should be run up two 
or three days before planting to allow the moisture to rise, and 
then rake off just before planting. Plowing, harrowing thor¬ 
oughly, and marking off rows is the best for small fields and gar¬ 
dens. It is best for larger fields unless the grower is familiar 
with other methods that have worked well under his conditions. 
Methods ol Training. The matted row, hill, and hedge row 
systems are most commonly used. We advise the hill and hedge 
row methods only for those who have used them and found them 
satisfactory or for those who know of others nearby who have used 
those methods successfully. They require more time, trouble, 
and expense. It is claimed for them that they make a larger 
yield of fine berries. 
We prefer the matted row for both garden and for field culture. 
The extra foliage protects the fruit from scalding, makes them 
less sandy after a rain, and with us the yield of large, well-shaped 
berries is usually greater than with any other system. It is not 
so important to keep the row narrow, especially if the ground 
contains plenty of moisture. Varieties with large plants like 
Big Joe, Ekey, Chesapeake, Wm. Belt, Early Jersey Giant, Paul 
Jones* etc., rarely get either too wide or too thick. Very vigorous 
growing varieties that have small plants as. Senator Dunlap, 
McAlpin, Warfield, etc., on rich ground will set too thickly for 
fruiting purposes if not kept thinned. 
Probably 90 % of all the strawberries grown in this country 
are grown in matted rows. Under average conditions and es¬ 
pecially with present labor shortage we would not want to use 
any other system. 
Cultivation. Young plants should be cultivated frequently 
after they begin to grow. This is done not only to keep down 
weeds and grass, but also to save more moisture. After heavy 
rains the soil will become hard and “bake,” causing it to dry out 
quickly and be very cloddy when cultivated, unless the cultiva¬ 
tion is done while soil is still damp. So it is best to cultivate as 
soon after a rain as condition of the soil will permit. 
In seasons of severe drought constant cultivation keeps a 
“dust blanket” over the soil and prevents evaporation. So, 
even if no weeds or grass have started, it is advisable to cultivate 
frequently. 
Never Got Any Except First Class Plants. 
Allegheny County, N. Y., January 14, 1920. 
Will you kindly send me your 1920 catalog. I wrote for one last year, 
but failed to get it, and I bought plants of the--— Co. They 
substituted, and the plants they sent were not fit to set and did not amount 
to anything. I bought plants of you the first year you were in the business 
when the only catalog you had was a single sheet folded. I lived at Lima, 
N. Y. # at the time. I have had plants from you at times ever since, and 
never got any but good first class plants. 
Lloyd S. Cbandall. 
