4 
THE W. F. ALLEN CO., SALISBURY, MD. 
Cultural Directions 
Strawberries will thrive in any type of soil that is not dry sand or waterlogged clay. They will often 
give good crops in soils that have been given poor preparation. But, like other crops, they respond quickly 
to good cultivation. 
One of the first essentials in producing a crop of berries is plenty of moisture. Springy land that is well 
drained is therefore the best type of soil. But on other types water can be conserved by cultivation or 
by mulching, or in most cases there may be enough natural rainfall at fruiting time. 
Preparing the Land 
Potatoes, tomatoes, beans, cabbage, and other 
truck crops usually leave the ground in excellent 
condition for Strawberries. This is because they 
are kept well cultivated for a good part of the season 
and are usually well manured and fertilized. All 
of this is good for the Strawberry crop following. 
Also any of the leguminous crops, such as clovers, 
beans, peas, vetches, etc., are excellent to precede 
Strawberries. They add humus and nitrogen to the 
soil. Barnyard manure is the very best fertilizer for 
Strawberries and it is sometimes spread broadcast 
over the land before plowing, with very good results. 
The manure or cover crops should be plowed under 
in the fall or as early in the spring as possible and 
the soil thoroughly harrowed. Rolling the ground 
is sometimes desirable, where the soil is lumpy or 
heavy. An advantage of having a cover crop to 
turn under is that it keeps out many of the weeds 
and leaves the ground cleaner, necessitating much 
less hoe-work. In all cases, sod land should be 
avoided for Strawberries, as the white grubs winter 
over in such land and cut off young plants when set 
the following spring. If you have no other land 
available, plow the land during the fall and many 
of the grubs will be killed out during the winter. 
Time to Plant—Important 
In the extreme South stock plants, free from 
nematode and rust, should be planted in February, 
March, or early April. In the middle states, March 
and April are the best planting months. In the 
North—April. Plant in early spring, just as soon as 
you can get your ground in condition. This gives 
plants as long a growing season as possible and the 
plants are set and growing before hot dry weather 
comes on. Be sure to have your plants on hand 
when you are ready for them. Have your plants 
shipped early (not later than April 15 to 20—earlier 
if possible) and heel them in in some protected place 
and cover with straw until you can plant. Read 
this: 
LOST NOT ONE OUT OF 150,000 
Out of the 150,000 plants bought of you this spring, I don't 
think I have lost a single plant. Coming in at the time they 
did, during that extremely cold weather, I think it is remark¬ 
able. I will be in the market for about the same number next 
spring, and hope to be able to use your plants, for they are 
certainly fine. Thanking you for your kindness in this matter. 
—Lynn A. Hayes, Knox County, Tenn., April 24, 1917. 
His plants were sent in three or four shipments, 
from February 5 to March 7. Have plants shipped 
in cold weather. In these days of congested trans¬ 
portation, it is hot weather, not cold, that causes 
plants to spoil in transit. Mr. Hayes says not a 
plant was lost out of 150,000. We can do it every 
time, if you’ll let us ship your plants before warm 
weather. If it is not convenient to heel them in, 
just put the crate in a cool, protected place. Mr. 
Ward, of Emmett County, Michigan, kept them 
several weeks in a snow bank in fine condition. He 
ordered his shipped in March. Early spring is the 
safest, most economical, and most successful sea¬ 
son for setting Strawberry plants in the North. 
Setting the Plants 
Just before planting, the ground should be har¬ 
rowed and made as level as possible. Then mark 
out the rows and you are ready to plant. The 
planting is sometimes done with a regular “trans¬ 
planter,” which requires two horses, driver, and 
two men to separate the plants and “feed” them. 
This method is quite successful where the size of the 
fields makes it practical and where the land is 
perfectly clear of stumps or other obstructions. 
Hand-setting is usually best and most satisfactory. 
A dibble, or trowel, is necessary for making the 
holes. A flat dibble is best, as this makes an opening 
that allows the roots to be spread out flat (fan¬ 
shaped). After pushing the dibble in, it should be 
worked a little to make the opening of proper size. 
Take the plant in the left hand and put it into the 
hole, so that the crown comes just at the surface. 
Then remove the dibble and insert it again about 2 
inches away and pull the soil firmly against the roots. 
When you get right down at this work, you can 
