TRUE-TO-NAME STRAWBERRY PLANTS 
5 
realize the value of our large, healthy plants with 
their wonderfully developed root-system. When you 
see such plants properly planted you wonder how 
they can fail. They won’t. With a little practice a 
man can set from 2,000 to 2,500 plants in this way 
in ten hours. 
The Spade Method is also widely used in setting 
Strawberry plants and differs from this only in 
that two men work together, one using the spade 
and the other handling the plants and firming the 
ground after plants are set. 
Whatever method is used in setting the plants, 
it is important to have the roots of the plants wet 
when they are put in the ground. This is especially 
important when planting during a dry season. 
It is often helpful to cut off about one-third of 
the roots for convenience in planting. Where the 
roots can be put down their full length without 
doubling them up, this is not necessary. 
A final caution in planting: Have the crown just 
at the surface of the ground—not below nor above. 
Methods of Training 
There are three general systems of training Straw¬ 
berries—the hill system, the hedgerow, and the 
matted row. No one system can be called the best 
in all cases, since the best method is that which 
most perfectly fits the climate, soil, variety, and 
method of culture. 
All of these methods have their distinct variations. 
1. The Hill System. This is an intensive system 
of Strawberry-growing, plants being set on a square 
or rectangular plan at distances most convenient 
for cultivation, the rows being 15 to 30 inches apart 
and the plants in the row 12 to 15 inches apart. 
All runners are removed and no new plants 
allowed to set, which permits individual plants to 
grow very large and have many crowns. This sys¬ 
tem requires heavy manuring and fertilizing and 
constant cultivation and training. The fruit from 
such plants is usually of good size and fine appear¬ 
ance, but the labor costs are greater than with 
other methods. 
Sometimes two, or twin rows of hill plants are set 
6 to 18 inches apart, with a wider interval for till¬ 
age between the pairs of rows. This double row, or 
twin row, is used merely for convenience in tillage 
and is not distinct from hill training. 
Hill plantings are more easily heaved out in freez¬ 
ing weather; the blossoms are more liable to injury 
from frost, and plants suffer more from drought. 
However, the fruit ripens more evenly, and there is 
less rotting in wet weather. 
This method is used in Florida, parts of the Gulf 
states, California, and in garden sections having a 
nearby market, or for special fancy local trade. 
2. The Hedgerow Methods. In the single hedge¬ 
row method the plants are set in rows 2 to 3 feet 
apart, the plants 20 to 30 inches apart in the row. 
Each plant is allowed to produce two runners, and 
only one plant is permitted to develop on each 
runner. These plants are layered in line with the 
original rows. All other runners and plants are 
clipped off as soon as produced. 
. The double and triple hedgerow methods are 
similar to the single hedgerow, the difference being 
that the mother plant is allowed to set either four or 
six plants, instead of two. The plants are trained 
to form two or thret rows, one in line with the parent 
plant and a row on each side of*the mother-plant 
row and parallel to it. The advantages of this sys¬ 
tem are that it eliminates crowding, the plants are 
easily cultivated, and it gives a heavier crop of 
large berries than the single hedgerow. 
The spaced-row method differs from the triple 
hedgerow chiefly in the matter of alignment. In¬ 
stead of being kept in line, the runners are layered 
all around the mother plants and spaced approxi¬ 
mately equidistant, so as fully to occupy the ground. 
This gives a cart-wheel appearance, the mother 
plant being the hub, and the runners radiating from 
it the spokes. The advantages are the same as for 
the triple hedgerow. 
3. The Matted Row. More Strawberries are now 
grown in narrow matted rows than by any other 
method of training, especially in the northern and 
central United States. With the exception of the 
extreme southern states, the matted row is the 
general rule and the other systems are exceptions. 
This system is used where berries are grown on large 
commercial plantations and where labor is scarce 
and unreliable. Less labor is required in setting 
and caring for the plants and the crop of fruit is 
usually larger. With this system the rows are from 
3 to 4 feet apart and the plants from 18 to 20 inches 
apart in the row. The plants may be set and treated 
so as to make wide or narrow matted rows, the latter 
usually being preferable. The disadvantage of this 
system is that a large number of plants are some¬ 
times allowed to set too close together, resulting in 
somewhat smaller fruit. Proper thinning of the 
plants in too heavily set matted rows will obviate 
this disadvantage. 
The matted row requires less labor and the yield is 
usually greater than in any of the other systems. 
When the row is kept thinned, you have the advan¬ 
tage of the other systems in producing large, well¬ 
shaped fruit; you have a greater number of plants to 
produce the fruit; and you have ample foliage, which 
you dp not have in other systems, to protect plants 
from scajding. Plants in a matted row do not heave 
out as quickly in freezing weather, the blossoms are 
better protected from the frost, and dry weather 
will not hurt them as much as in other systems. 
The narrow matted row will produce the largest 
quantity of berries, the largest in size, and the most 
uniform, especially if given equal fertilization, culti¬ 
vation, and attention with other methods. Immense 
yields are often secured with the hill system, but 
these are the result of heavy fertilization and inten¬ 
sive culture ratlr r than method of training. 
Cultivation 
Young plants should be cultivated frequently 
after they begin to grow. This is done not only to 
keep down weeds and grass, but also to save more 
moisture. After heavy rains the soil (except very 
sandy soil) will become hard and “bake,” causing 
it to dry out quickly and be very cloddy when 
cultivated, unless the cultivation is done while soil 
is still damp. So it is best to cultivate as soon after 
a rain as the condition of the soil will permit. 
In seasons of severe drought constant cultivation 
keeps a “dust blanket” over the soil and prevents 
evaporation. So, even if no weeds or grass have 
started, it is advisable to cultivate frequently. 
A hoe and 12-tooth cultivator are the best tools 
to use. In general, the patch should be cultivated 
every ten days, or two weeks anyway. Skilful use 
of the cultivator will make necessary much less 
hand-hoeing. The hoe can be used to advantage in 
keeping the plants thinned out when necessary. 
Young plants, set out in early spring, will blossom 
freely at the regular blossoming season and, if not cut 
off, will set and bear quite a few berries. But it is 
best to cut these blossoms off so that the plants can 
make a more vigorous growth and be in better shape 
to bear a full crop of fine fruit the following spring. 
