To Our Friends and Customers, 
Greetings: 
We present our offerings of lilies and other bulbous plants for the autumn 
of 1934. We hope this modest little catalog w'll prove interesting and instructive 
to you. It has been our endeavor to accurately describe the various kinds with¬ 
out overstating their virtues or disregarding their faults. 
Above all things it is our desire to deal honestly with our customers and with 
all men. If in spite of our diligent efforts to grow and ship only good clean 
stock, true to name, there should be any cause for d : ssatisfaction, we hope you 
will be prompt and frank in telling us about the matter. Be assured that we 
shall meet all complaints in the spirit of fairness and stand ready to correct what¬ 
ever may be our mistake. 
Many of you have written to express appreciation of our stock. Others 
merely show their approval by ordering repeatedly year after year. To all of 
these, we are very grateful. We hope to merit a continuance of your patronage. 
Notes on Lily Culture 
Accompanying the descriptions of the various lilies, we have set forth the 
cultural requirements of each except the very easy sorts. In general, lilies are 
not more difficult to grow than other herbaceous perennials, some of which 
may be grown under a wide variety of conditions and others of which require 
special treatment to thrive. Usually it is comparatively easy to provide the 
needs of the more exacting varieties when these are understood. 
An ideal soil for most lilies is one which is sufficiently porous to permit 
fast drainage of winter rainfall but rich in humous which will retain moisture 
for the plants during the summer. Heavy soils may be improved by liberal 
additions of sand and leaf mold. On low ground, it is often advisable to throw 
out the soil to a depth of two feet and place at the bottom a layer of old cans, 
brick-bats or other material which will provide under-drainage. In back-filling, 
sand can be added to the soil if needed. 
The common idea that the stem rooting lilies are the only ones that need 
deep planting is a fallacy. Many of those that root from bulb only, will do 
much better if planted 10 to 12 inches deep where the moisture content is 
greater and there is more protection from winter cold. Additionally, the rootless 
stems need the greater depth of soil to hold themselves erect without staking. 
In districts where late spring frosts are common, it will be well to select a 
sheltered spot with the protection of low-growing shrubs or ferns. The shade of 
these helps also to keep the ground cool and moist later on which is very 
beneficial. A mulch of leaf-mold will retain moisture and provide just the sort 
of plant food lilies need. Wherever possible, avoid the use of manures in fer¬ 
tilizing lilies. They tend to spread injurious soil organisms such as symphilids 
(garden centipeds) which destroy the tender roots and often attack the bulbs. 
We believe this accounts for the loss of many of the white-bulbed lilies which 
are especially susceptible. Leothrips sometimes attack lily bulbs that are 
planted shallow in loose soil. Deep planting will tend to check the depredations 
of these and other insect pests. Bulbs so infested may be cleaned up by immers¬ 
ing for an hour or more in a solution of oil emulsion spray at the strength pre¬ 
scribed for dormant spray. Much trouble with lilies could be avoided by plant¬ 
ing clean, healthy bulbs in new soil and thenceforth using only leaf-mold from 
under deciduous trees as fertilizer. 
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