YOUR FLOWER GARDEN 
Some Helpful Hints That Will Bring 
Better Results 
SOWING ANNUALS 
All annuals can be sown in the garden in May 
when the ground is warm, either in a seed-bed or 
directly where they are to grow. There are some, 
such as Poppies, Eschscholtzia, Mignonette, Centau- 
rea, etc., which, on account of lack of fibrous roots, 
cannot be transplanted without great setback. These 
should be sown, either broadcast or in rows, in the 
location desired. Most annual flowers, however, 
benefit by being transplanted so as to develop a bet¬ 
ter root-system. These are better started in a cold- 
frame on a specially prepared seed-bed, deeply dug 
and finely sifted on top Most flower seeds are small 
and should be covered with only about Vs inch of 
soil; the very fine seeds are simply pressed into the 
soil. Water carefully through a fine rose, so as not 
to wash the seed out, and keep the soil moist. On 
warm, sunny days some shade should be given. 
When the seedlings are large enough to handle, 
they can be transplanted 1 inch apart into another 
seed-bed, or if they are not too close together, they 
may be left in the original bed until large enough 
to transplant into permanent places. Always 
remember that flowers need good soil, an open sunny 
situation, and sufficient space between the plants. 
STARTING SEEDS IN HOTBEDS OR IN BOXES 
Many annuals, such as Snapdragons, Stocks, 
Asters, Carnations, Cockscomb, Cosmos, Dahlias, 
Pinks, Heliotrope, Lobelia, Pansies, Petunias, Phlox, 
Salpiglossis, Salvia, Vinca, Verbena, if sown outside 
do not bloom until quite late in the summer, but 
you can have them early if you sow the seed in 
the hotbed. March is about the best 'time to sow, 
except for Lobelias, and Stocks, which can be started 
as early as February. Sow either directly in the 
hotbed in shallow drills or in pans or boxes. The 
soil should be light, finely sifted, and well watered. 
Scatter seeds evenly, but not too thinly. After 
sowing press the soil down with a flat board and 
cover with newspaper to prevent too rapid evapora¬ 
tion. This covering must be removed as soon as 
the seedlings are up. Always water through a fine 
rose, and only when necessary, with tepid water and 
as much as possible in the forenoon or midday on 
bright sunny days, for if the soil is too wet over 
night, the small seedlings will become chilled and 
damp or rot off. When seedlings have four leaves, 
transplant in similar boxes 1 inch apart or singly 
into small pots, shifting into larger ones if neces¬ 
sary. Ventilate more or less according to the 
weather and gradually harden the plants, setting 
them out when all danger of frost is past and the 
soil is warm. Cultivate frequently and stimulate 
plant growth by applying a top dressing of sheep 
manure, poultry manure or bonemeal to the soil at 
frequent intervals. (See back cover page for fer¬ 
tilizers, etc.) Keep seed-pods removed; never allow 
Withered flowers to remain on the plants if you 
want them to bloom right through the season. 
HOW TO GROW PERENNIALS, INCLUDING 
THOSE WHICH ARE BIENNIALS (LAST¬ 
ING BUT TWO YEARS) 
Perennials will bloom the second year from seed 
and are permanent thereafter. Most of them are 
so hardy that they do not require protection during 
winter. We find among them some of our most 
beautiful cut-flowers and many of the old-fashioned 
favorites of grandmother’s garden. A hardy border 
is a continual source of joy; from earliest spring to 
late autumn it will be resplendent with color. Once 
established, such borders need no other attention 
than to be kept free from weeds and to be given an 
occasional topdressing with fertilizer. 
WHEN TO SOW PERENNIALS 
Many of the hardy flowers will bloom the first 
year from seed if sown in the hotbed in February 
or March. Outdoors they may be sown any time 
from May 1st to August. A coldframe is an ideal 
place, but, if you have no coldframe, prepare a seed¬ 
bed of finely sifted light soil, made rich by adding 
and mixing with it poultry manure, sheep manure, 
or bonemeal. See inside front cover. Sow the seed 
in shallow drills or squares of suitable size, parti¬ 
tioned off with laths; cover Vs inch or more, ac¬ 
cording to the size of the seed—the very fine ones 
should only be pressed into the soil with a flat 
board—water gently but thoroughly through a fine 
rose and do not allow the soil to become dry while 
the seed is in process of germination, for as soon 
as the seed has sprouted and until it becomes a 
plant with roots, its life depends entirely on soil- 
moisture, Seed-beds must be shaded from the sun 
in summer and carefully watched and watered until 
the plants have made from four to five leaves. 
While most hardy flower seeds germinate in from 
eight to fourteen days, there are some which take a 
month or more, so do not become impatient. If 
seedlings come up too thick, pull out some and 
transplant elsewhere in boxes or other seed-'beds, 
and when the plants are large enough set them out 
in their permanent places. This, however, should 
not be done later than October 1st, in order to allow 
sufficient time for them to take firm root before 
frost. Cover with leaves or salt hay, applied after 
the ground is frozen. Too early covering some¬ 
times causes heating and consequent decay of plants, 
and it also encourages field-mice. 
Explanation of Symbols Used in This 
Section 
HA—Hardy Annual. 
HHA—Half Hardy 
Annual. 
HP—Hardy Perennial. 
TP—Tender Perennial. 
HB—Hardy Biennial. 
TB—Tender Biennial. 
HP1—Hardy Perennials 
that flower first year. 
Some Tips on Keeping Cut Flowers 
In cutting flowers use a sharp knife. Cut with as short a stem as will be used when finally 
arranged in the vases. The shorter the stem the longer the flowers will keep. Cut early in the 
morning or in the evening. 
During hot weather put stems into a pail of water as soon as they are cut. 
Flowers that wilt quickly should have their stems cut again under water. 
Poppies will last several days in the house if treated properly when cut. Take a pitcher of 
boiling water to the place where the plants are growing. Put the stems into the boiling water 
soon as cut, keep them there a minute or so and then put them into cooler water. 
Pick Oriental Poppies when bud is opening. 
Paeonies may be cut when petals are unfolding and kept in a cool, dark place. They may be 
kept this way for several weeks and when brought to the light will open shortly and be as beauti¬ 
ful as if they had remained on the plant. 
Pick Gladiolus when two lower flowers are open, always leaving a few leaves on the plant to 
ripen the bulb. Cut stems each day and remove flowers as they fade. 
Flowers that have a woody stem should have an inch of the outer bark scraped away. 
This is an excellent formula to use in the water to make the flowers last: One tablespoonful 
of salt, one tablespoonful of bicarbonate of soda and one tablespoonful of household ammonia all 
dissolved in one quart of water. When using add a tablespoonful of this solution to one pint of 
water. Undiluted carbonate water is also good. 
When arranging short-stemmed flowers in bowls half fill the bowls with sand, soak well and 
stick stems into sand. Keep bowls filled with water constantly. 
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