178 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, December 25, 1800. 
but we would say, “Let our enemy build a house after his own 
unaided devices.’’ Smothering in a hod of mortar would many 
a time be a blessing to such a mau. Now, the volume before us 
prevents the necessity for that bold man to be unaided. It is 
full of the information which will prevent him falling into 
building dilemmas, or help him out if he has rushed into them. 
Let us justify this commendation by a quotation. 
234 cubic feet of sand, 17J do. of clay, 13 do. of chalk, equal 1 ton. 
A cubic yard of earth before digging, 'will occupy 1 j cubic yards when 
dug. 
27 cubic feet, or 1 cubic yard, contains 21 striked bushels, which is con¬ 
sidered a single load, and double these quantities a double load. 
Ins. Ins. Ins. lbs. ozs. 
A stock or plain brick. 
8f- long, 
, 44 wide, 
2 k thick, weighs 
5 
0 
YVell-made country do. 
9 
44 
99 
3 
99 
6 
0 
Paving brick. 
9 
44 
99 
1? 
99 
4 
0 
Dutoh clinker . 
6? 
3 
14 
99 
1 
8 
Pantile . 
134 
94 
99 
1 
99 
5 
4 
Bridgewater do. 
14 
99 
14 
99 
l 
99 
6 
0 
Plain tile. 
101 
64 
99 
99 
2 
5 
Foot-paving tile . 
12 
99 
12 
99 
4 
„ 
13 
0 
Ten-inch do. 
10 
10 
1 
99 
8 
9 
Pantile laths, 10 ft. bundle 
120 
feet 
14 
1 
99 
4 
6 
99 99 12 ft, )« 
144 
99 
14 
99 
1 
99 
5 
0 
Plain laths for tiling . 500 ,, 1 „ $ ,, 3 0 
Thirty bundles of laths one load. 
272 feet superficial is a rod of brickwork, 11, brick brick, or 131, inches 
thick, called in London the standard thickness, to w T hich all brickwork of 
whatever thickness is reduced. 
306 cubic feet or 11J cubic yards, equal to 1 rod of reduced brickwork. 
4300 stock bricks to 1 rod reduced, 4 courses 11 inches high. 
4500 „ ,, if the 4 courses measure 11., high. 
4900 ,, ,, laid dry in wells or cesspools to a rod. 
A rod of brickwork contains 235 feet cube of bricks, and 71 feet of mortar 
(4 courses to a foot) : which will weigh, upon an average calculation, 15 tons. 
A rod of brickwork requires 1J cubic yards of chalk lime, and 3 single 
loads or yards of drift; or 1 cubic yard of stone lime, and 34 single loads or 
yards of sand; or 36 bushels of cement, and 36 bushels of sharp sand. 
16 bricks to a foot of reduced brickwork. 
7 ,, to a foot super, of facing. 
10 ,, to a foot super, of gauged arches. 
SO ,, on edge and 45 bricks flat to 1 yard super, brick Hogging. 
36 stocks laid flat and 52 stocks on edge to 1 yard of paving. 
36 paving bricks laid flat and 82 do. on edge to 1 yard of paving. 
9 foot tiles, or 13 ten-inch do., to 1 yard of paving. 
140 Dutch clinkers on edge to 1 yard of paving. 
A load of mortar, 27 feet cube, requires 9 bushels of lime and 1 yard of 
sand. 
Lime and sand loses one-third of its bulk when made into mortar. 
Plain tiles will require to a square, if each tile shows on the face 4 inches. 
600 ; 8£ inches, 700 ; 3 inches, 800. 1 bundle of laths and nails, 1 peck of 
tile pins, and 3 hods of mortar; or 210 tiles to a square of flat roofing. 
Pantiles will require for a square, 180 to a 10-inch guage; 154 to an 
ll.-inch; and 130 to a 12-inch guage; 1 bundle of laths and 1,} lb. of 6 d, 
nails. 
Bridgewater pantiles, 100 to a square. 
A hod contains 20 bricks. 
Lime, or cement and sand, to make mortar, requires as much water as is 
equal to one-third of their bulk, or about 54 barrels for a rod of brickwork 
built with mortar. 
1 bushel of cement will cover 1J square yards 1 inch thick; IJ yards 
J-inch thick; 2J yards 4-inch thick. 
1 bushel of cement and 1 bushel of sand will cover 2.j square yards l inch 
thick; 3 yards f-inch thick ; 4) yards4-inch thick. 
1 bushel of cement and 2 bushels of sand will cover 3J square yards 1 inch 
thick ; 4J yards J-inch thick ; 6J yards 4-inch thick. 
1 bushel of cement and 3 bushels of sand will cover 4,j square yards 
1 inch thick; 6 yards J-inch thick; 9 yards 4-ineh thick. 
1 cubic yard of chalk lime, 2 yards of road drift or sand, and 3 bushels of 
hair, will cover 75 yards of render and set on brick, and 70 yards on lath ; 
or 65 yards of plaster or render 2 coats and set on brick, and 60 yards on 
lath ; floated work will require about the same as 2 coats and set. 
1 bundle of laths and 500 nails will cover about 4 4 yards. weighs 
Slates called doubles, are 13 in. by 6 in., 1000 will cover 2 squares, J- ton. 
»» »» ladies, 16 ,, 8 ,, ,, 4.$ ,, If- ,, 
„ „ countesses, 20 „ 10 „ „ 7 „ 2 „ 
1 ton of 6-inch and 7-inch granite paving will cover 4 yards super. 
1 ton of 9-inch do., 24 yards ; 1 ton of pebble paving, 4| yards. 
70 feet super. 24-inch York paving, weight 1 ton ; 58 feet of 3-inch do., 
1 ton; 54 feet of 3-inch granite, 1 ton. 
We must not have our readers suppose, however, that Mr. 
Bernard does not pay especial attention to the construction of 
unexceptionable cottages for the labouring classes—almost every 
page contains something regardful of that object. It is the 
main theme of the book; and it is scarcely possible to imagine 
a fitting labourer’s cottage that a plan with full directions and 
estimates for its construction could not be found in its pages. 
It is impossible for us to transfer them to our columns, but we 
will find space for one quotation from the more general directions. 
“ A sink should be placed in the scullery, through which slops 
of every description can pass through a trapped stoneware or 
iron sink (stoneware, as the most cleanly, preferred), to a 
trapped stoneware drain to the manure-tank (a most indis¬ 
pensable requisite to the cultivation of a garden). Nothing will 
contribute so much to cleanliness in the house and at the door 
as for the wife to find that it is less trouble to deposit the slops 
m the sink than to carry them to the door. 
“The manure-tank to be placed at least 30 feet at the rear of 
the house, to contain about 200 gallons—say about 4 feet by 
2 feet and 4 feet deep. Form in the tank a well 12 inches deep 
and 16 inches square, with a man-hole level with the surface of 
the ground to dip out the liquid as may be required. Over the 
tank form the ash-bin. Acting as the back-wall to the necessaire, 
the excreta will fall into the tank by a four-inch drain-pipe, to 
finish within four inches of the bottom of the well; thus pre¬ 
venting the escape of the gas into the necessaire. Adjoining the 
necessaire could be placed the pigsty, with a drain to well in 
tank. A man’s stoneware watering-sink should always be pro¬ 
vided, to drain also into the tank. The tank will thus receive 
from these four sources of supply such a fertilising material, if 
properly mixed as to quality and applied with judgment, as 
would quadruple the produce from the garden. 
“ A wattle-screen, for the sake of decency, should be placed 
four feet from front of pigsty, &c., about six feet in height, 
against which could be planted evergreen Ivy. 
“ Surface and rain-water drainage onno account to be connected 
with the manure-tank.” 
We strongly recommend the volume to every one who is 
purposing to build a house, whether it be for the upper or lower 
“ten-thousands.” 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
Daisied Lawn—Pears Cracking [An Old Pembrokeshire Subscriber).— 
You will see at page 164 of our last Number that we know of no conqueror 
of the Daisy hut the spud. If your Beurre Ranee is grafted on a Quince 
stock, and grows on a dry soil, the fruit will be liable to crack whilst 
growing. 
Edging Tiles (D. II.). —Apply for patterns to Messrs. Eastwood, 
Belvidcre Road, Lambeth, S. Write about a drake to some one or more 
of those who exhibited at Birmingham or elsewhere. 
Vines (J. B — d). —Y’ou had better buy another Black Hamburgh, rather 
than wait for grafting or inarching on the Frontignan. 
Making a Vine-dorder ( W. S. W.). —If the border is inside the house, 
perhaps it would be as well to make it at once to avoid trouble afterwards, 
though we think the Vines do better when the border is made at different 
times, as they have fresh soil so often to run into. If the border is outside, 
we would make it at three or four times, if twelve feet wide, beginning 
with five feet or so, and adding eighteen inches or so every year after the 
second. The border will be as well if mostly above the ground level. 
Secure good drainage, open rubble for nine inches over the bottom of the 
border, then the roughest of the compost. Mix your loam with about 
one-third of lime rubbish, and, if you like, one-twelfth of leaf mould, and, 
if you can get them, a good spadeful of broken bones for every two barrow¬ 
loads of compost. Make your border from twenty to twenty-four inches 
deep. It will get shallower by compression and time; that will enable 
you to apply the top dressings after the border is fully made. The sort of 
Vines would depend on whether you forced or not. For a forced house 
we would recommend Dutch Sweetwater, Royal Muscadine, Golden Ham¬ 
burgh, Muscat of Alexandria, and West’s St. Peter’s. For a late house 
not to be forced, we would substitute a West’s St. Peter’s for the Muscat, 
or another Muscadine. In either case the Sweetwater will enable you to 
have Grapes nearly a month before the others. 
Training Wire (J. (?.).—We have bought it of many ironmongers, and 
any one of them could obtain it for you if he chose to do so. It is a com¬ 
pound of zinc and other metals made of various sizes, and is more easily 
twisted than lead. 
Propagating Case too Hot from Sunshine (J. Brown). —Ivniphovia 
uvaria and Tritoma uvaria are synonymes. We presume your glass slopes 
to the sun. In such a case turning it round so that the slope faces the 
room will be advisable, and will be preferable to much shading. In very 
hot days, and the sun bright, even that would be insufficient. Of course, 
if glass all round, the part next the sun must also he shaded. The more 
light cuttings will stand the better will they strike, but a little too much 
kills them: therefore the necessity of watchfulness. See “ Window 
Gardening for the Many ” for the reasons and directions. 
Pine Apple Culture — Forced Flowers in May (M. O.). —There are 
some good articles on the Pine Apple in our former volumes, and the mass 
of information of the kind you want will, perhaps, be repeated ere long. 
Mills’ and Hamilton’s books on the subject are both good in their way. 
You can have forced flowers in May of Mignonette, Musk, Wallflowers, 
Camellias, Epacrises, Heaths, Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Cytisuses, Coio- 
nillas, Hyacinths, Tulips, Jonquils, &c , without any forcing ; and with less 
or more forcing, Lily of the Valley, Deutzia (of kinds), Roses, Lilacs, Jas¬ 
mines, Callas, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Pelargoniums, &c. We do not 
know if you have a plant-stove. 
Climbers for a Conservatory (A. B .).—Mandevilla suaveolens, Ipo- 
meea Learii, Lophospermum Hendersonii, Passiflora racemosa, P. coorulea, 
Lapageria rosea, Coboea scandens, Rbyncospermum jasminoides, Sollya 
heterophylla, Dolichos lignosus, Rhodochiton volubile, Jasminum rev’o- 
lutum, Tecomas. All the above plants, which you name, will do very well 
and grow strong ; hut I pom as a Learii, Lapageria losea and Rhyncospermum 
jasminoides, Tecomas and Mandevilla, would be better in eighteen or 
twenty-four-inch boxes inside the house. If that cannot well be managed, 
the roots should be covered over with eighteen inches of dry litter by the 
middle of October, and a tarpaulin or a board covering placed over them. 
A border eighteen inches deep, well drained, and from three to four feet 
wide, will do for such climbers. The stems must he protected; and the 
border, as a whole, be covered and kept dryish from October to the end of 
April. 
