387 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, March 26, 1861. 
thoroughly improved the land. While so engaged send often, and only 
two or three questions at one time, unless they are of general interest. 
Your soil is excellent for Roses and for the deep blue Violets; but the large 
grey or Neapolitan Violet often fails in your vicinity. 
Cottage Garden Societies ( J. C. C.).— Let us see the lulesyou mention, 
and then we will decide about publishing them. 
Fruit-tree Stocks and Cuttings {Young Photo). —There is no special 
work on raising these. Probably Mr. Rivers could let you have a few of 
the kinds you mention. You must look to our advertising columns, or 
advertise yourself, for the animals you mention. .Some Apple trees can 
be raised from cuttings—such as the Burr-knot, Codlin, and Joanneting. 
Dwarf French Marigolds (S. Ryder). —We cannot recommend any 
one. Apply to some of the seedsmen who advertise in our columns. 
Ivy Cuttings {C.P.).— When Ivy assumes the tree character, and flowers 
and fruits on spurs, it will not strike root readily from cuttings, only by 
layering; or if it took root, the young growth would be that of common 
creeping Ivju Dwarf Ivy bushes will grow under trees and in the thickest 
plantations almost better than in the open ground, if there is sufficient 
good soil to give it a fair start. Cuttings of Ivy, we believe, will succeed 
put in at any season of the year if the cuttings are of ripe wood—at least, 
we have to do so the year round; but no evergreen pays better to be well 
watered the first two years than Ivy. We do not think it possible to give 
too much water to young Ivy in common soil. 
Soil for Rhododendrons ( Wye-side). —The black tenacious soil full of 
vegetable remains will not do for Rhododendrons, but in your light 
gravelly soil it would make a good bottom for a Rhododendron-bed, and 
this is how to prepare it. Dig out the size of the bed 2 feet deep, put 
9 inches of that black soil in the bottom, and 15 inches deep of the best 
compost you can make for the Rhododendrons to grow in. That compost 
might be made with one-half of the top of the black soil by the brook, the 
other half of rotten leaf mould and sandy loam from the surface of some 
parts of your garden or grounds. Have it thoroughly well mixed in a dry 
state, and after planting the Rhododendrons mulch the bed with some 
litter. Your old, half-starved Rhododendrons will not do at all; only 
healthy young plants will succeed. This bed would not do on a chalky 
soil. 
Ventilating a Greenhouse—-Cucumbers in Pots [Telegraph). —We 
presume your roof is fixed ; and if better could not be done, the making 
holes into the stable would answer, though the stable might be made very 
hot in summer, and, if not cleaned well, the smell from it would not be 
over-pleasant. We should prefer having three small ventilators in the 
roof—say 1 foot by 2 feet, or even a three-cornered sash close to the apex 
made to open at each end. Either plan you propose for growing Cucumbers 
will do. In pots you will have the plants more under your control. See 
answer to-day to another querist about Melons in pots. The pots may be 
from 13 inches to 18 inches in diameter. 
Raising Seed (J. M., Dundee). —We have told the writer of “ The Little 
Market-Gardener ” what you wish for. 
Camellias, &c. (Gridiron). —Our “Greenhouses for the Many” will 
give you general directions. We shall publish separate treatises on all 
you mention, and many others. Cover the side of your south wall with a 
glazed lean-to. It will make an excellent structure for many garden 
purposes. The little work we have named will tell you how to con¬ 
struct it. 
Water Cress (A Subscriber). —We know nothing about raising this from 
seed. The best practical way is to propagate it by cuttings. The work 
you name can be had from our office free by post for Ss. 10 d. 
Variegated Plants (D. L.).— Six good variegated plants for specimens 
to exhibit for prizes are, 1, Farfugium grande, to be grown in strong, 
rich, loamy soil; and to have stove treatment from April to September, 
and a greenhouse for the rest of the year. 2, Begonia Rex, or Marshalli, 
or Madame Aldicnrdt, or the three, in open loamy compost, with a little 
peat and leaf mould, with one-sixth of sand, to be in the stove the year 
round. 3, Pandanus javanicus variegatus, strong loamy soil and peat, 
liquid manure in June, July, and August, and stove heat. 4, Caladium 
argyrites, a little gem with bulb-like roots, rests or dies down in winter, 
to be plunged in a hotbed in March ; and when the leaves are full grown, 
then to be in the stove the rest of the year, and be kept quite dry in winter. 
5, Caladium Chantini, a much stronger plant than the last with the same 
habit, requiring stronger soil—that is, one-third loam, one-third peat, and 
one-third leaf mould and sand, hotbed in spring and stove afterwards. 
6, Cyanophyllum magnificum, very open turfy loam, turfy peat, leaf mould 
and sand ; hotbed in'spring and stove the rest of the year. 
Gladiolus in Pots (Idem).— There must be one bulb in a No. 24-pot, 
three bulbs in a No. 1G, and five bulbs in a No. 12-pot. To be potted early 
in April, and kept in a cold frame to the middle of May, if it is convenient; 
but if not, plunge the pots at once under a south wall till Midsummer, then to 
a more open andless sunny situation, and not to be taken to the conservatory 
till the flowers begin to open. Gladioluses in large masses in No. 12-pots are 
splendid object 1 * for the conservatory from July to October, as we used to 
have them for very many years; and we often had as many as ten large bulbs 
in one No. 12-pot, also in single pots and in threes. To get the succession 
we made four pottings—the first early in February, the second in March 
(the first week), the third at the beginning of April, and the fourth not 
till May was in. The first two pottings we had in cold frames till May 
was well in ; the other two were plunged in the open ground, the last 
being set behind a north wall. Soil just the same as for Hyacinths, and 
no watering till the leaves were 2 inches or 3 inches long. There is not a 
single bulb in cultivation more suitable for pots than the Gladiolus. The 
late Mr. Jenkinson, brother to Lord Liverpool, used to grow a thousand of 
th m in pots for many years almost next door to us, and every root of 
them sold at its full market value at the sale close to Kingston three years 
since; and some of these very “roots” we have seen this week in Mr. 
•Jackson’s nursery on the geothermal border in front of the stoves, with 
leaves 6 inches long. If wo had anything to do with exhibitions, we would 
require every Gladiolus to be exhibited in pots. Any one can grow them 
in the open ground if the soil is good, or if it would produce splendid 
Carrots; but a man would need the perseverance usually found only in a 
woman to grow them well in pots—that is, to keep them from the red 
spider, and from the soil getting soddened by bad drainage and injudicious 
watering. ' i 
Asphalte Walks (A Constant Subscriber). —Write to Mr. Appleby, 
Hobson’s Grove, Longsight, Manchester. He contracts for the formation 
of such walks. 
Mistletoe Seeds ( Edward Collins).— Any seedsman can procure them 
for you. 
Camellia Leaves Discoloured and Falling (J.M.). —Your Camellia 
leaves might be injured by the frost, but they show more signs of scalding 
—such as would be done by standing with the leaves in a damp state 
exposed to a bright sun, and little or no ventilation to the house. Examine 
and see if there are not spots in the glass opposite where the plant stood ; 
and if there are, dull them by rubbing a little putty over them. We 
have seen leaves affected in the same way by being too cold, and the soil 
too w'et in a frosty night. We should not be surprised if you find the roots 
are decaying. 
Lily of the Valley—Melons in Pots ( P .).—An answer to an inquirer 
about the Lily of the Valley in another of our columns to-day will suit you. 
We have never had such Melons so heavy for their size, and so well 
flavoured, as when grown in thirteen-inch pots as you propose. We 
wmuld place a couple of bricks with a space between them on the top of 
the flue for each pot to stand on; and, in the places between, evaporating- 
basins filled with water. As the Melons approach their ripening let these 
evaporating-basins get dry. We do not give a theory as to the reason ; 
but we have astonished many by the weight of Melons so grown and 
trained on a trellis; and in general a heavy Melon for its size, if well 
ripened, almost uniformly proves a good one. 
Raising Seedlings ( J.H. ). —Seeds of Lobelia, Mignonette, Phlox Drum- 
mondi, &c., are better sown in seed-pans and placed in a hot frame. The 
double Zinnia should also be raised in heat in the same way, and shaded 
from too much sun. The objection to sowing in the bed is, that you cannot 
harden off the seedlings without exposing the whole bed. Do not think of 
raising seedlings in a room. 
Insects (Ovcrdessel). —The minute insects found in considerable numbers 
on the surface of some Sycamore boards that were sawn out about eight or 
nine months ago are the white, fleshy, immature states (larvae and pup®), 
of a minute Beetle, belonging, most probably, to the genus Latridius, 
which feeds on mould and decaying vegetable matter.—W. 
Names of Plants (Amateur, Stockton-on-Tees ).—They are, Clematis, 
cosrulea, Phlebodium aureum, and Passiflora edulis, apparently. 
POULTRY AND BEE-KEEPER’S CHRONICLE. 
POULTRY SHOWS. 
April 1st and 2nd. Sunderland. Sec., John Littlefair, G, Bridge Street. 
Entries close March 19th. 
May 21st, 22nd, and 23rd. Chesterfield and Scarsdai.e. Mon. Sec., 
Mr. Thos. P. Wood, jun., Boythorpe House, near Chesterfield. Entries 
close May 1st. 
May 22nd and 23rd. Beverley. Mon. Sec., II. Adams. Entries close 
May 4th. 
June 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th. Bath and West of England. Steward, 
S. Pitman, Esq. Entries close May 1st. 
June 19th, 20th, and 21st. Coalbrookdalh. Secs., J. B. Chune, and 
Henry Boycroft, Conlbrookdale. 
June 28tli. Driffield. Sec., Mr. R. Davison. Entries close June 22nd. 
June 28th and 29th. Taunton. Sec., Mr. Charles Ballauce. Entries 
close June 14th. 
July 2nd and 3rd. Blackpool. Sec., Mr. E. Fowler, jun. 
N.B.— Secretaries will oblige us by sending early cojries of their lists. 
DORKINGS TOO LARGE TO EXHIBIT. 
In jour “ Letter Box ” you state, “ there is no limit to the 
weight of Dorkings.” I beg to differ from your opinion, having 
proved the reverse upon several occasions. I have exhibited 
pens of Dorkings of immense bone and frame, but in low con¬ 
dition, otherwise I have taken first prizes with them in that 
condition; and directly I get them in good, healthy, laying 
condition, I am told by our so-styled great authorities on 
poultry matters that I have got them too large—in other w'ords, 
too fat and heavy. 
I admit our present judges have not been used to such immense 
frames in poultry : therefore they have no conception what 
weight of flesh can be carried upon such birds, and still to be 
in good store condition. 
I claim to know when a fowl is in good condition as well as 
any of our great authorities, having no doubt hut I have bred 
and reared more poultry personally than all our so-styled great 
authorities put together. 
In fact, weight has had very little to do with prizes in some 
of our late poultry exhibitions.— John Douglas. 
[When w T e said that Dorkings cannot he too large for exhi¬ 
bition, we did not say, as our correspondent seems to think, 
that great weight would compensate for other great deficiencies. 
What we said we say again:—Dorkings cannot be too large; 
and if two pens are equal in all other points, the largest ought 
to he adjudged the best. “ Immense hone,” large “ frames,” if 
accompanied by “low condition” or excess of “fat, may 
constitute a large, coarse, unsymmetrical fowl, deservedly defeated 
by a pen of less heavy birds, superior in symmetry, condition, 
and feather.] 
