4 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION, April 7, 1837. 
bed, where it can have a high temperature and a moist 
atmosphere. When it is in a large pot or tub it is less 
dependent upon this; but even then, if likely to be ex¬ 
posed to a cold temperature, it would be well to have 
the pot not far from the heating medium. A tub is 
better than a pot exposed, as the roots are not cooled 
so much by radiation. If the temperature is likely to 
average 45° for any great length of time, and the plant 
is in a pot, not only should the pot be placed near the 
heating medium in winter, but it would be all the better 
to be plunged or covered over with some non-conducting 
medium, such as moss or sawdust. Supposing, now, 
that the plant is beginning to grow freely, let it have a 
moist atmosphere, and a temperature ranging from 60° 
to 65° at night, and from 70° to 85° during the day, with 
sunshine. When the flowers open keep the temperature 
a few degrees lower and the atmosphere drier. When 
done flowering encourage the continuance of growth 
with heat and moisture; but by September give all the 
sunlight and heat possible, with no more watering than 
will keep the leaves from feeling the dryness. As the 
short days come, gradually lower the temperature until 
November, from which time to March the heat may 
average from 45° to 55°, with a rise of from 5° to 10° 
from sunshine. As the days lengthen in March and 
onwards, increase the temperature gradually and the 
amount of moisture. The warm vinery will do very 
well for it if not often below 45° in winter, for the heat 
of a vinery will just suit it in summer, and the dry 
heat in the autumn, for the benefit of the fruit and the 
Vine wood, will suit it likewise. 
Watering.— From what has been said it will be seen 
that copious supplies will be wanted in summer, and 
manure waterings will not be objected to; but very little 
will be required in winter. 
To resume, water freely and give plenty of heat in 
the first part of spring and summer; ripen with heat 
and comparative dryness in autumn; rest in winter, 
and there will be no difficulty. R. Fish. 
ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 
Few vegetables have passed through more fashionable 
changes than Asparagus, and none present such a 
fewness of varieties. Many years ago it was thought 
impossible to have the ground too rich for this crop, 
and a heavy coating of earth in winter was also deemed 
necessary to protect it from frost. By-and-by it was 
shrewdly said that moisture and sand were necessary 
components in the mixture it was grown in, and finally 
salt in liberal quantities was recommended; besides 
which, much difference of opinion has existed on the 
condition it ought to present when sent to table, some 
insisting that every inch of the part cut ought to be 
green and grown above ground; others, and by far the 
greater number, preferring strong heads, with at least 
two-thirds of their length blanched as white as good 
Celery. Leaving the latter dispute I will at once proceed 
to the cultivation of the plant. 
In most gardens the proportion of ground under 
Asparagus amounts to about one-tenth or more of the 
whole space, and it likewise is often treated with the 
best position. Nevertheless in some soils it is with 
difficulty reared, and does not at all do well. There 
seems a something inherent in some soils opposed to 
the well-being of Asparagus, and it is no easy matter to 
overcome these difficulties. Being itself a native of the 
seashore, salt enters largely into its wants; and perhaps 
the ingredient most opposed to its welfare is iron, which 
abounds in many soils. Chemists will give some hard 
names to the ingredients which do not agree with its 
welfare; but usually these ingredients may be partially 
counteracted by judicious means. 
When there are gardens on a heavy, tenacious clay, in 
which the water, after standing some time, presents a 
rusty-looking scum at the top, such a soil generally 
contains iron, and is unfit for Asparagus, do what you 
will with it; but if it be determined to try, let the soil be 
thoroughly drained, and in trenching add as much of 
coal ashes as can be had; lime in this case may also be 
allowed. The roughest dung, stones, wood, sawdust, or 
chips, and similar refuse may also be incorporated with 
the soil, and the whole worked to a good depth, so that 
a wide range may be given to the roots. I would 
not advise too much dung to be buried, as it is better to 
add such substances afterwards. 
I may here mention that I am no advocate for 
burying good dung in a wholesale manner two feet deep 
for Asparagus, for it often becomes a solid sour mass in 
wet ground before it is occupied by the roots of the 
plant. It is certainly better to drain the soil well, and 
in trenching to mix a something that will tend to keep 
the ground open for some years. Soft stones, road 
sand, coal ashes, and refuse from the carpenter’s yard 
are all useful things, and at the same time I would 
advise abundance of drain-pipes laid about two feet 
deep; these are to act as air-drains (deeper ones may 
take the water). These air-drains are to allow the 
ground to become dry and sweet by air being allowed to 
circulate through them, to assist which they ought to 
communicate with each other, and several outlets 
be provided to the open air. It is hardly necessary to say 
that a large importation of soil of a suitable kind for 
Asparagus will be beneficial, but do not remove any of 
the natural soil to make room for it; rather let the beds 
be raised above the surface by heaping the new material 
on the old, for it is not unusual to find the good soil 
that is buried so deeply under the surface converted into 
the same strong, tenacious loam which prevails all 
around it, whereas elevating the beds will materially 
check that, and the result be more satisfactory. 
The preparation of very light soils must be equally 
liberal if good Asparagus be wanted; trenching and 
removing all useless stones, hungry sand, and gravel, and 
the substitution of a more generous soil for it, with a 
liberal allowance of dung or other good manure, and in 
summer a plentiful supply of liquid manure and salt. 
We sometimes see good Asparagus even on dry, chalky 
soils, which do not answer well for many other crops; 
but the best of all situations for this crop are the rich 
alluvial soils which form the levels bordering rivers. 
Thus the banks of the Thames are, perhaps, the best of 
any for the growth of this and some other vegetables. 
When the ground suits this vegetable it is not by any 
means prudent to plant it thickly. Single rows about 
three feet apart have been recommended as producing 
the best heads; but it is more common to plant two rows 
in a bed, say two rows two feet apart, and then three 
feet before another row takes its place. I would not 
advise the plants to be less than fifteen inches apart for 
the single-row system, and more than that for the double 
rows; the ground in both cases to be wholly devoted 
to the crop, and due care taken to prevent weeds finding 
their way there, more especially perennial weeds of all j 
kinds. 
Although much of the general success of Asparagus | 
culture depends on the care and liberality displayed in 
the first formation of the beds or plots, still it is not to 
be inferred that after attention is to be dispensed with. 
On the contrary, Asparagus, more than most plants, i 
is benefited by a judicious application of manurial 
substances in summer. Liquid manure may then be 
administered with advantage, as likewise may salt. The 
latter is best applied in small quantities during rain, or 
immediately before it, and during the whole of the growing 
season this may often be repeated. One thing, however, I 
would not by any means allow, namely, the beds to be 
