THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION, April 21, 1857. 
41 
during the following year ? In this case, where are the 
branches trained during their year of growth ? and, if stopped 
at eighteen inches, how do they prevent the fruit-buds from 
breaking? It may be that the natural power of the sun at 
Thomery will enable a Vine to do what can only be done in 
this country by artificial heat, and that even the gentlemen 
of the walking-stick school could there obtain fruit on the 
open walls; but this is exactly what I wish to know, and 
your explanation will be most thankfully received.”—H. S. 
Watson. 
[At Thomery the shoots of the Vine Avhich have borne 
fruit are cut back to within one or two eyes of the horizontal 
branch, as represented in the Vine a. In summer the best 
young shoot of those resulting from the eyes left at the 
winter pruning is allowed to grow upright till it reaches the 
next horizontal course, and it is then stopped by pinching. 
One or two laterals usually push ; they are pinched back to 
two eyes, and from these laterals will push before any of the 
principal eyes break. You will find that in this country 
perpendicular shoots from horizontal branches will bear 
well, and the fruit will ripen better than it would by any other 
mode of training.] 
TREATMENT OF NEWLY-BUDDED ROSES. 
“ Last autumn I budded a good many Roses of various 
kinds on the Wild stock. They are now pushing vigorously, 
and I wish for information as to their treatment. 
“I see that all good standards got from the nurseryman 
have at least two branches from each eye inserted in the 
stock. How is this obtained ? Should they be pinched back 
while they are young ? ”—W. 
[Standard Roses are twice budded to give two chances of 
success, and two small heads on one stock look bigger than 
one head. Buyers who do not know better like to have 
plenty for their money, therefore the two buds are allowed 
to make two heads as one on a stock, which is the very worst 
practice of the present age. Always cut away the weakest 
of the two as soon as you are sure of a “ take.” But you are 
not out of the wood yet; your greatest trial is before you. 
If there is nothing to tie the new shoots to as soon as they 
are a few inches long away they go with the first high wind. 
Every standard Rose which was budded last autumn ought 
to have had the new shoot stopped by nipping off the top 
bud as soon as it was six inches long, and no sooner; and 
every stone-fruit tree, as Apricot, Peach, Plum, and Cherry, 
if it is to be trained, ought to be done exactly as the Rose. 
To allow a Rose or Peach to grow on one whole season from 
the bud without stopping for trainage is one of the most 
injurious practices, and is forced on nurserymen by the 
ignorance of their customers.] 
SCARLET PASSION-FLOWERS. 
“ A week or two since I ordered of a Gloucester florist a 
scarlet Passion-Flower, and he has sent me one labelled 
Passijlora Loudoni, and on referring to The Cottage Gar¬ 
deners’ Dictionary (last edition, 1857) I find the colour 
of the flower given as purple. Still the gardener who sold 
it persists that it is, if not quite scarlet, of a very bright pink 
or red colour, and certainly not purple. Will you kindly 
tell me what is the colour of Passijlora Loudoni , as I have 
always regarded The Cottage Gardeners’ Dictionary 
as law in these matters ? I have since bought a plant of 
another man as a scarlet Passion-Flower, who has sent me a 
plant labelled Passijlora Guyion . It is a fine healthy-looking 
plant; but I should like to be assured that the colour of the 
blossoms, if I should ever succeed in obtaining any, will be 
scarlet, and I see no such name in The Cottage Gardeners’ 
Dictionary.”—C. Webb Shith. 
[Passijlora racemosa is the only real scarlet we know of. 
Loudoni is a cross seedling between the crimson kermesina 
and an old purple cross from carulea by the pollenof racemosa; 
but there is more crimson than purple in it, and those who 
cannot distinguish crimson from scarlet call Loudoni a 
scarlet flower. Its true colour is a purplish crimson. It is 
a splendid thing ; so is kermesina, but racemosa is brighter 
than either, and than all other Passion-Flowers. We do 
not know Guyion .] 
CAMPANULA PYRAMIDALIS, LILIUM GIGAN- 
TEUM, AND TALL LOBELIAS AS BEDDING 
PLANTS. 
One of the oldest flower-garden plants we have, and 
the one which gardeners of the last generation took 
the greatest pride in preparing to “ blow ” out in the 
borders, is Campanula pyramiclalis, blue and white. 
But, previously to that, this pyramidal Bell-flower was 
grown to “ adorn halls, and to place before chimneys in 
the summer when it is in flower, for which purpose 
there is no plant more proper; for when the roqts are 
strong they will send out four or five stalks, which will 
rise as many feet high—yea, eight or aine stalks, 
which rise as many feet high-—and are garnished 
with flowers great part of their length. When the 
flowers begin to open the pots are removed into the 
rooms, where, being shaded from the sun and kept frorfi 
the rain, the flowers will continue (two months) long in 
beauty, and if the pots are every night removed into a 
more airy situation, but not exposed to heavy rains, the 
flowers ivill he fairer, and continue much longer in 
beauty .” Thus wrote Philip- Miller, “ Prince of Gar¬ 
deners;” but the italics are mine, to mark more 
especially the estimation in which Miller held night 
air for his plants and flowers—a most essential step in 
the progress of cultivation, which half the gardening 
world of the present age have yet overlooked. But 
without “learning the steps” a man might as well 
pretend to be a soldier, or a woman to whirl in a polka, 
as for a gardener to believe himself “ capable of all the 
branches ” of the craft without taking the influence of 
the night air into the account. 
The next oldest of the best old plants, which required 
the skill of an age to “ bring out ” into the open flower 
border, was not known to Philip Miller when he wrote 
that paragraph. Lobelia fulgens was not then intro¬ 
duced, and none of the Philip Millers of the present 
day have yet associated the gigantic Lily of India as a 
fit and proper subjeet for the flower borders, requiring 
much the same kind of treatment for that purpose as 
the Lobelia fulgens, splendens , and cardinalis, when it is to 
be raised like them from side-suckers of the old stool, 
or very much like the Campanula aforesaid when it is to 
be had from seeds. , 
When the gardening world was not so fast as it is in 
our day, and when the gardener had time to do things 
as they should be done, the fact was well known that 
seedling plants of these favourites were much better 
than plants from suckers. “ The plants of Campanula 
which are raised from seed are always stronger, and the 
stalks will rise higher, and produce a greater number of 
flowers.” Since those days, however, the art of cultivation 
has so much improved that suckers and root cuttings ot 
this Campanula, and suckers only of the scarlet Lobelias, 
can be made to bloom as stately as any seedling plants 
of the same kinds were ever known to do ; and so it is, 
and will still more prove to be, with the half-hardy 
Lilium giganteum of India. Content yourself with 
suckers from it as from the scarlet Lobelias, and treat 
them both exactly alike from October to next June, 
and the one will flower out of doors in the common 
border just as well as the other, and both of them 
equally so with the tall Campanulas—not; however, 
if our gardeners are doomed to be for ever bed¬ 
ridden with Tom Thumbs , and creatures of “ that 
there sort.” Yes, October is the right time of the 
year to begin to make specimen plants of Fuchsias, 
seedling herbaceous Calceolarias, scarlet Lobelias, 
pyramidal and several other tall Campanulas, Hud 
many others, as well as of the gigantic Lily. To 
have given up the Campanulas for the conservatory 
may well be excused; but to put all the old stools of 
Lobelias into rest for the winter is not the proper way 
