THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN’S COBIPANION, May 19, 1857. 
101 
dangling shoots will come, and you must let them 
dangle; probably they will not show flower that year. 
Curtail water again in autumn, cut back these shoots to 
a foot or so, and bring the main stem to the back wall 
again. Next spring thin out these spurs to one or two 
prominent buds, and they may give you shoots a 
yard or two in length in summer, with plenty of flowers 
near their points. ThusTreated year after year, success 
will be certain; placed near the front glass in such a 
house, or kept growing by watering late in autumn, and 
success will be unlikely, from cold in the one case, and 
unripened wood in the other, which, though it may 
furnish you with plenty of shoots the following year, 
will most likely be destitute of bloom. 
Your Acacia with the pinnated foliage is most likely 
one of the lopliantha, decurrens , or julibrissin species, 
and will succeed admirably in such a house, and so will 
pulchella , armata, juniperina , taxifolia, grandis, and the 
whole lot of greenhouse Acacias. The foliage of many 
of the pinnated kinds is exceedingly beautiful, and their 
sleep, by shutting and twisting up the back of their 
foliage, not only at night, but also in dull weather, is 
very interesting. They are easily managed, growing 
freely in loam, with a little peat at first, requiring but 
little water when the temperature is low, but abundance 
at the roots and plenty over the foliage in an evening in 
summer. 
The Incarvillea Sinensis I am unacquainted with, 
unless it be a synonyme for Bignonia Ghinensis, which 
again is a synonyme for Bignonia grandifiora, and that 
again for Tecoma grandifiora, a fine climber from China 
and Japan, which would thrive admirably in the coldest 
part of such a house, as it has stood against a wall with 
slight protection near London. 
The Mandevilla suaveolens will succeed if the roots are 
kept moderately dry in winter, and the wood is well 
ripened in autumn. I have some time ago mentioned 
the mode of treating this plant at Stockwood. It is 
planted at one end of the house, trained as one main 
stem along the house about eighteen inches from the 
glass, the main stem being studded with largish spurs, 
looking like thick-set spurs on a Pear branch against a 
wall; these are cut back and thinned in spring, and the 
result is a huge, long garland of white flowers. Syringe 
well when the flowers are gone, and keep down red 
spider. 
The Clianthus puniceus will just be at home in such a 
house if kept moderately dry in winter when the tem¬ 
perature is low, and abundance of air given in sunny 
days to prevent excitement into growth. As the sun 
gains power it will want more water, and the house may 
be kept warmer by sun heat. Before and after blooming 
it will want a free use of the syringe, as the red spider 
otherwise will be sure to attack it. It will be better out 
of doors in summer than in auy house. Loam and peat 
will suit it well. 
Erythrina Caffra may be treated somewhat similarly. 
I have grown its neighbours, cristagalli and laurifolia, 
in such a cool house, much the same as I would a 
Willow stool out of doors. When the shoots had finished 
blooming they were inured to the open air and full sun¬ 
light by degrees; in the end of autumn the shoots were 
cut down close to the stool, and the pots kept cool and 
dry, just free from frost; in spring, when the shoots 
began to push, a little water at first, and more by 
degrees, was given, and the plant placed in a good 
position, any extra number of shoots being thinned out 
to give extra strength and room to those left. When 
growing freely abundance of water is necessary, and a 
frequent sprinkle over the foliage in an afternoon. 
The Anagallis Phillipsii is one of the best of the 
Pimpernels, or Shepherd’s Weather-glasses, a small 
herbaceous plant, brilliant with blue flowers when the 
sun shines. It is easily managed, and should be propa¬ 
gated by cuttings every year, as young plants do best. 
It looks best when hanging from the sides of a vase or 
basket. You will thus perceive that, with the exception 
of the Acacias, Clianthus, and Erythrina, most of your 
seedlings will be best grown on pillars or along the roof 
of your house. 
2nd. Keeping in view what has been said of Choro- 
zema, Boronia, Hovea, and Zichya, and referring 'to 
previous volumes for full accounts of management, I 
would just premise here that it would be as well if even 
the others following should not be for long periods much 
below 40°, as, if they are, just so much more care will 
be requisite to keep the plants in a state of comparative 
rest. The following are the hardiest of the hard-woodod 
plants you mention:— 
Chorozema angustifolia, ilicifolia, and ovata; Polygala 
cordifolia, latifolia, and oppositifolia; Pimelea decus- j 
sata, Hendersoui, and hispida; Boronia pinnata, tri- ! 
phylla, and latifolia; Pultensea stricta, aristata, and j 
oxalidifolia; Correa speciosa, pulchella, and rufa; 
Hovea ilicifolia, latifolia, and rosmarinifolia; Kennedya j 
prostrata, Marryattae, and ovata; Zichya coccinea, ino- 
phylla, and tricolor; Diosma virgata, cupressina, and 
ericaefolia; Eutaxia myrtifolia, pungens, and Baxteri. 
All these will require a compost of heath soil and 
fibry loam, the former to predominate when the plants 
are young; plenty of water when growing and flowering; 
the soil to be rough and open, and drainage perfect; all 
the dead flowers removed as soon as flowering is over; 
pruning according to the variety to take place then; 
wood to be grown in summer, hardened in autumn, 
and rested comparatively in winter, by plenty of air 
when possible, and little water then. As the sun gains 
power more will be wanted. 
Of the others Olea fragrans is the sweetest, and 
latifolia and buxifolia may be added if deemed desirable, 
and, though requiring similar soil to the above, will not 
need so much attention. 
CUironia linoides, fioribunda, and angustifolia are 
almost as much herbaceous as shrubby, require more 
loam than peat, and should be cut back freely when 
done flowering. Some should be propagated every year, j 
as plants rising two years old bloom and look best. The 
Linum trigynum may be treated somewhat similarly, 
freely cut down after flowering, and receiving but little 
water in winter. 
Clematis ccerulea, Sieboldii, and odorata will just be at 
home in such a house, growing in a large pot trained to 
some sort of trellis, and removed to the open air in July, 
and housed in the end of October. 
Jasminum gracile, grandifiorwn, and odoratissimum 
may receive similar treatment, but be housed by the 
middle of October. 
Habrothamnus fascicidaris will do best against a 
pillar, but it is not so good in our opinion as elegans. 
Having already exceeded our space, I can 
ordly, mereiy mention a few others that will do well 
in such a house. Azaleas, the best kinds, to bloom from 
April to the middle of June; Camellias, which will com¬ 
mence blooming in March; Bossisea of many kinds; 
Callistacliys retusa; Coronilla glauca ; Cytisus Attleana 
and proliferus ; Crotalaria latifolia; Daviesia acicularis; 
Grevillea rosmarinifolia; Indigofera australis, &c.; Me- 
trosideros lanceolatus; Myoporum parvifolium, &c.; Pas- 
siflora caerulea, racemosa. cmrulea; Pittosporum tobira 
and undulatum ; Proteas of sorts; Sparmania Africana; 
Sutherlandia frutescens, &c. 
Then the whole tribe of Fuchsias would just be at 
home, and so would small plants of Calceolarias, Cine¬ 
rarias, and Pelargoniums, if care be taken in watering; 
and in such a house scarlet Geraniums and a whole host 
of things for bedding would be kept as safe, and often 
do much better aftenvards, than if they had received 
! nroro heat in winter. The great thing is to give air in 
