THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION, May 19, 1857. 
105 
BERBERIS HYPOLEUCA. 
Raised from seeds received from Dr. 
Royle, and said to be from the North of 
India. 
A very fine evergreen, with leaves from 
two to three inches long and one and a half 
broad, of a dull green colour above, white 
beneath, strongly retieulated on both sides, 
and often bordered with reddish purple. 
Flowers pale yellow, small, and in racemes 
not larger than the leaves. 
A hardy shrub, only injured by very 
severe winters. It grows freely in any 
good garden soil, and is increased by seeds, 
which should be sown directly they are ripe. 
It forms a fine, handsome, evergreen bush, 
well suited for planting in sheltered situa¬ 
tions on account of its beautiful foliage. 
It flowers in May .—(Horticultural Society’s 
Journal .) 
QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 
PLANTING OUT LARGE CAMELLIAS. 
“ I am making a considerable addition to 
a greenhouse, and in the neAV part I wish 
to have some of my largest Camellias 
planted, in the ground. Now, do you con¬ 
sider this a favourable time for transplant¬ 
ing them ? I am desirous of taking your 
advice before proceeding in this matter, as 
I should be extremely sorry to lose any of 
the plants, being of very fine growth and 
size. The Camellias have all done flower¬ 
ing, and are now making much new wood. 
Also, supposing it a fit time for transplanting, in what 
manner would you proceed ? Would you lift the plants 
entirely out of the pots and tubs, and loosen the soil 
about the roots ? or would you crack the pots, and so 
place them in the ground, and allow the roots of the plants 
to push their own way through into the soil ? By this latter 
method I thought the growth might, in some degree, be 
checked, and that the plants, instead of turning all their 
strength into wood, might still flower abundantly next 
season.”—A New Subscriber. 
[If you did not wish your plants to become much larger 
we should have no objection to your cracking the pots and 
tubs as you propose; but if you wish them to grow freely, 
as well as bloom freely, then turn the plants out, and, 
provided they have plenty of air and sunlight to perfect the 
buds, there will be no deficiency of flowers. The time 
we should have preferred would have been as soon as they 
had done flowering, and before beginning to grow freely. It 
would be safest now to defer the operation for six weeks or 
two months, until the wood was getting a little hardened, 
unless you could shade for a short time from bright sun¬ 
shine. With this shading at command we would as soon 
do it now as not. We should proceed thus:—Give the plants 
a thorough soaking, so as to make sure that every part 
of the ball is thoroughly wetted, and let them drain then 
for a day or two. Prepare the places for them. Take 
the plants carefully out of the pots, /fee., and place 
them in the desired position, and so that the collar of the 
plant shall stand a little deeper than before ; then pick the 
outside of the ball with a little stick, so as to disentangle the 
roots there as much as possible, but without going very far 
into the ball. The drainage may be all left, and the roots 
near the bottom brought out in the same way, so as to be 
packed in the new compost. Do this regularly all round, and 
finish with a basin round the plant, so that in watering the 
greatest portion of the liquid may be thrown upon the old 
ball, as that is where there will be danger of suffering from 
drought. We should have mentioned that the place so planted 
should have been properly drained, so as to prevent any¬ 
thing like stagnant moisture. Fibry, good loam, with pieces 
of charcoal and bits of soft freestone, should form the main 
portion of the compost. A little rough leaf mould may be 
added, and, at planting, a portion of heath soil and a little 
silver sand may be placed among the loam immediately 
round the ball and among the disentangled roots. We should 
prefer this simple to any more elaborate or rich compost. 
In the loam the shoots will be firm and short-jointed, and 
if strength is wanted it is easily given by manure waterings 
when the plants are growing freely and blooming. If done 
now, and the plants are growing freely, shading and syring¬ 
ing will be required until the plants will stand the sun un¬ 
injured. If plenty of light and air are given afterwards there 
will be no danger of not blooming well next year.] 
VERONICA HENDERSONII AND COCCINEA CUL¬ 
TURE.—CAMELLIAS SHEDDING THEIR BUDS. 
“I have a plant of the former, two years old, which has 
grown too large for the space I can spare in my small green¬ 
house. Will it bear cutting back, and if so, when should it 
be done, and how far back should it be cut ? Will cutting it 
back spoil it for flowering next season ? Should coccinea be 
cut back at the same time ? Also please to say how and 
when to propagate them. 
“ My Camellias this year dropped their flower-buds, although 
looking perfectly healthy in other respects. I have, there¬ 
fore, cut them back, about two months since, nearly to the 
old wood, and they are now breaking nicely in the lower 
parts. Will they, after being cut back, flower next season ? 
I have no pits or forcing beds, only a cool greenhouse with 
north-east aspect. 
“ Does the Eccremocarpus require a large pot to flower in ? 
“ Cyclamens and Deutzia gracilis , though vigorous, are not 
flowering. Can you tell me the reason ? ”—E. C. 
[If your Veronicas are stumped in very much there will 
be little danger of their not breaking nicely, so as to form good 
bushy plants ; but there will be a risk of their not flowering 
next year if you keep them during the summer in a north¬ 
east aspect; but if you could place them in a sunny spot 
out of doors after the middle of August until the middle of 
October there Avould be every chance of their floAvering. If 
you pruned back, after flowering, to near the base of last 
year’s wood, there would be less risk of their not flowering, 
