110 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTEY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION, May 26, 1857. 
covering of about an inch of good earth can be had, so 
much the better. On this let the grass seeds be sown 
at any time when it is ready, and the ground very well 
rolled; nature will usually do the rest. The object in 
removing the stones is to keep them away from the 
scythe, and the more fine earth placed at the top the 
better the quality of the grass lawn, and the less 
likelihood of its burning in hot summers. 
A shallow soil resting on chalk is almost as un¬ 
manageable as the last, not so much from the presence 
of stones as from a disposition it has to produce plants 
inimical to a nice close-bottomed turf, the Plantain being 
the most annoying. Prepare for sowing as directed 
above. Mow as often as possible, and when Plantain 
and other weeds assume an unbecoming growth let 
boys be directed to go over the lawn, and cut each one 
up singly about an inch below the surface, not deeper, 
and put about a tea-spoonful of salt on the cut part.. This 
will not in all cases exterminate these pests, but it kills 
many. The evils of these plants are the naked, raw 
spots seen in the lawn in winter, as they die down then. 
May is, perhaps, the best time to kill them. Dandelions 
may be subjected to a like fate, and, if necessary, Yarrow 
or Milfoil, Saintfoin, Chicory, and some other weeds 
might be extirpated in the same way. 
A rich garden soil for a lawn is as bad as any to 
manage; not but that the grasses grow well on it, and 
their general luxuriance checks the production of Daisies, 
but then the richness of the soil encourages worms, 
which are very troublesome in autumn and in mild 
winters. The only remedy for this is to give a good 
coating of ashes or chalk an inch or so below the 
surface. A partial remedy for the time being is to give 
the lawn a good watering with lime water; but, as may 
be expected, this is not lasting in its effects. 
A dry, black, peaty soil sometimes produces a nice 
agreeable surface, moss being predominant, and to 
those who like this kind of surface black peat earth 
might be added to other soils when it can be obtained; 
but the grasses it produces are hard and wiry, and were 
it not for the presence of moss its surface would not be 
agreeable. 
A loose, running sand is also bad for producing a 
good sward, though it may be done with time and 
patience; but the grasses on this soil are not deep 
rooted, and are easily affected by dry weather, and 
also easily damaged by any one running or stamping 
about. It is, however, free from worms, and sometimes 
becomes mossy. 
Perhaps the best description of soil for a lawn is the 
stiff loam or clayey soils which predominate in so many 
districts. This ought not to be by any means rich, as a 
rapid growth is not wanted in the grasses of a lawn; 
but, in preparing it for laying down, let the surface be 
as much alike in quality as possible, and do not stint the 
quantity of seed. A very stiff clay is no better than a very 
dry sand for resisting drought,"as it is, in a measure, 
sealed up against the insertion of roots, and the surface 
contracting by the withdrawal of moisture, it is liable 
to crack, &c., to a great depth. Nevertheless, a stiff soil 
usually makes the best lawn. 
.1 hough other soils might be enumerated, the above 
are the most common ones, and, as it often happens 
that good turf cannot be had to cover all that is wanted, 
sowing good seed is the next best course. I have at 
various times inoculated naked ground by breaking 
up a lew pieces ol turi into small patches, and scattering 
it regularly over the ground in moist weather, and then 
lolling it. This quickly becomes green, but is uneven 
and tulty, and is some time in becoming a nice, even 
bottom, but when the ground is very poor it mav be 
adopted with advantage. J 
. Sowin S seed, however, is the general way of establish¬ 
ing a lawn, and is, on the whole, a more precarious 
crop than many garden ones we have to manage. Much 
depends on the season and condition of the ground at 
the time of sowing, and still more on the absence of 
small birds, who are very fond of grass and clover seeds, 
and destroy more than is generally supposed. A very 
slight raking in will protect the seeds much, or a sowing 
of wood ashes will render them distasteful. Rolling, 
however, is at all times indispensable, and it is a 
good practice to sow a very thin scattering of barley 
amongst the grass seeds, which, coming up quickly, 
tends to shade and protect the tender grass. 
The best time to sow grass seeds is either in April or 
about the beginning of September. If at the latter time 
the seeds ought to have been the produce of the same 
season. Sowing plenty of them is also advised, as the 
little extra expense for a good lawn ought not to be 
denied. 
One important thing should not be forgotten in the 
preparation of the ground: let it all have a surface of 
about six inches alike, for nothing looks worse than to 
see a lawn grow all in patches. One exception, how¬ 
ever, may be mentioned, and that is, if there be any 
steep slopes facing the south or other exposed places 
let the earth on them be better than in the ground level, 
for the aspect and other causes render such places 
liable to burn with less sun than level places. They 
ought, therefore, to be of better material, and turf 
ought to be provided to lay there if accuracy be ex¬ 
pected. 
It is only proper here to observe that no lawn can 
be maintained long in good order without successive 
rollings, unless it be well used in walking on. Mowing 
alone will not secure a good bottom without that com¬ 
pression which the roller or foot of the pedestrian alike 
tend to give, J. Robson. 
NOTES FOR JUNE. 
Although winter lingered in the lap of spring up to the 
middle of May, when that respectable person, “ the oldest 
inhabitant,” declared that such a season was but rarely seen 
before, nevertheless we have hopes, from the present ap¬ 
pearance of fruit trees and vegetables, that June will be as 
productive as ever of Roses and of flowers. 
Sowings are now to be made of Red Beet and early Horn 
Carrots, Scarlet Runnel's, Dwarf Kidney Beans, Turnips, 
Lettuces, Radishes, Cabbages, Spinach , and Endive for the 
main crop, and Cauliflowers. 
All vacant ground to be manured, trenched, or dug in dry 
weather, that advantage may be taken of showery weather 
to plant out the principal crops of Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, 
Greens of sorts, Savoys, Cabbages, and Celery. Tomatoes , 
Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows, Celery, and ali such things 
as have been recently planted out to be carefully supplied 
with water, and occasionally with liquid manure in dry 
weather, not in small quantities often, but a good soaking 
once or twice a week—what is called puddling ; that is, dip¬ 
ping the roots of Cabbages and all other such vegetables, 
before transplanting them, in a puddle of clay of the con¬ 
sistence of thin mortar, will assist in protecting them from 
the injurious effects of dry weather. When vegetables are 
in active growth under the solidifying influence of strong 
solar light and heat is the time to apply stimulating manures 
Avith good effect; and about one pound of salt to a square yard 
of Asparagus or Sea-kale will supply these vegetables with 
an ingredient that abounds in their native localities. We 
have also, at this season, used liquid manure from horse- 
dung on Asparagus beds with the best results. 
We would specially direct attention to the crops that are 
growing on ground which has been well trenched and pul¬ 
verised as directed in former notes, that the rapidity and 
vigour of their growth may convince the apathetic of its 
superiority at all seasons to single-spit digging. Scarlet 
Runners produce more abundantly when they are staked 
and allowed to grow five or six, or even more feet high; 
but where high stakes are not easily procured, and no simple 
