THE COTTAGE GAEDENEE AND COUNTEY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION, May 26, 1857. 117 
contrivance can be adopted to allow them space to expand 
themselves trained on strands of twine against walls, fences, 
or old buildings, by pinching off the leaders at every third 
or fourth joint they are kept dwarf and bear pretty well. 
If the weather is dry, liberal waterings to be given to 
Strawberry plantations to increase the size of the fruit, and 
a mulching of clean straw or short grass to prevent rapid 
evaporation, and the fruit from being splashed with dirt by 
heavy showers of rain. 
Wall trees must be attended to as directed in former notes, 
that no more wood may be allowed to encumber the trees than 
will bear fruit next year; the shoots to be laid in carefully 
without a bruise to produce gum or canker. The young 
shoots of Fig trees to be stopped when they have made four 
or five joints, to obtain stocky and fruitful wood for next 
year. To obtain Avell-ripened wood in due season, and to 
increase the size and quality of the fruit of Gooseberry and 
Currant trees, it is advisable now to stop back some, and to 
cut away all superfluous shoots; also to remove all super¬ 
fluous shoots or suckers of Raspberries. The beneficial 
effects of a little attention to such matters now will be per¬ 
ceptible in the produce, and obviate the necessity of much 
winter pruning. 
Auriculas are much injured at this season by exposure to 
the sun; therefore such plants as are growing in frames 
should be removed to a north aspect, and exposed in mild 
weather to the night air. 
The propagation of Carnations , Ficotees, and Pinks by 
pipings may now be commenced. Although there are many 
persons of the old school who still pertinaciously adhere to 
the complicated practice of striking them in a compost of 
many ingredients, in heat, under handlights, or in frames, 
the most simple and natural, which is always the most suc¬ 
cessful plan, is to take off the cuttings or pipings, to strip 
off a few leaves at the bottom, then to cut to a joint, and to 
trim off the top leaves closely. The short, stubby piping is 
then inserted by pressure, which more effectually excludes 
the air than when a dibble is used, into any light, sandy soil 
in a shady situation on the north side of a wall or fence. 
Stuck in rows as closely together as possible, they will emit 
roots and be fit for planting out in showery weather in a 
month or five weeks. Choice Pinks should now have their 
pods carefully examined from day to day, and tied with 
bast to prevent them from bursting. Ranunculuses , when 
the flowers begin to expand and the weather is dry, will 
require a good supply of water to be given in the evening 
between the rows, and protected like Tulips with canvass or 
any other shading material during the hot sunsliining portion 
of the day. Pansies to be now propagated like the Pinks. 
The thin shoots at the base of the plant are the best for the 
purpose. All inferior seedlings to be discarded, and good 
ones retained in their places, as removal now is frequently 
injurious, and is sometimes the cause of their death. When 
the leaves of Tulips are withering the bulbs should he 
taken up and dried in an airy place; the offsets to be 
allowed to remain attached to the parent bulb until all 
are dry. 
As Ranunculuses are very excitable and apt to make a 
second and damaging growth, as soon as their grass withers 
they should be taken up. Dahlias are apt to be left without 
stakes or ties until a high wind sweeps over and mutilates 
them for the season. 
The greenhouse will now be gay with plants in full bloom. 
To prolong their beauty it is necessary to shade them from 
strong sun bursts or a scorching sun during the middle of 
the day. When seed is not required, and it is desirable, 
which it is with all lovers of flowers, to prolong their bloom, 
it may be interesting and useful to know that three penny¬ 
worth of liquid gum arabic will be sufficient for a whole 
houseful during the season. The liquid being in a small 
phial, a camel-hair pencil or small feather is dipped in the 
liquid, and is thus applied to the centre of the flower, 
where it appears like a dewdrop, and cements the petals to 
the base of the corolla. As the early blooms of Camellias , 
Azaleas, Pelargoniums, &c., are retained until a full suc¬ 
cession of blooms is expanded, fine plants thickly set with 
bloom, and all fully expanded at the same time, are the 
pleasing result. Pelargoniums in bloom will now require 
plenty of air, but no cold draughts, a regular supply of 
liquid manure, and the destruction of insects. The early 
forced varieties, when done blooming, to be cut back to two 
or three eyes at the bottom of each branch, to be kept 
rather dry until they have made fresh shoots an inch or two 
long, when they should be repotted into smaller-sized pots 
in fresh soil, removed to a cold frame, kept close for several 
days until they have made fresh growth, and then exposed 
to all the light and air possible by pushing off the./lights, 
which will always be convenient for use and protection to 
the plants during heavy rains, thunder storms, or other 
inclement weather during the summer and autumn months, 
until they are returned to their winter quarters. 
The flower-stems of Cinerarias and herbaceous Calceo¬ 
larias done blooming, and not required for seed, to be cut 
down, and treated as recommended for Cinerarias last month. 
Heaths and New Holland plants should now, in accordance 
with the increased influence of solar light and heat, be en¬ 
couraged to make their growth by frequent waterings and 
syringings, liberal shifts if necessary, sturdy growth hy 
pinching back luxuriant shoots, free supply of air, and 
no draughts to cause a rusty or spotted and unhealthy 
appearance. 
If Balsams, Globe Amaranthuses, Cockscombs , or other such 
annuals are grown for filling up vacant spaces in the green¬ 
house, they should be frequently shifted, and kept in a good 
brisk bottom heat near the glass. The first flowers of 
Balsams to be picked off as they appear until the plants 
attain a large size, when they will bloom in greater per¬ 
fection. The climbers will now be making rapid growth, 
when the side-shoots should be frequently stopped to keep 
’ them at home, from rambling, and for the increase of bloom. 
Wherever there is space allow them to grow in festoons, 
which will give a natural and pleasing variety to the scene. 
—-William Keane. 
THE PEACH TREE. 
{Continued from page 7J.) 
TEAINING THE PEINCIPAL BEANCIIES. 
This, to speak properly, is the first nailing which is made 
after the winter pruning. It consists in fastening to the 
Avail, or trellis, all the principal branches of the tree. By 
this operation we give the Peach tree the regular form that 
it ought to present, maintaining its branches at proper dis¬ 
tances and in a suitable position. The earlier the pruning, 
the more important it is to train in the branches immediately; 
because, should a sudden change in the temperature take 
place, its bad effects are not so much felt by the tree when 
nailed, and protected by the copings, and by straw mats in the 
worst aspects. It is absolutely necessary that all the Avood- 
hranches should be trained in a perfectly straight line, 
because the least curve might draw the sap to the shoots 
that may be there, and give them a disproportionate strength, 
and thus render them troublesome. Training in the principal 
branches is of greater importance on this account than on 
that of its giving a regular appearance to the tree. Although 
this operation appears very easy, it is not Avithout its merit 
Avhen well done; and sometimes Ave cannot do it Avell at the 
first attempt. The intelligent cultivator, who is fond of his 
calling, never hesitates about going over his work a second 
time, in order to give it the desired regularity. 
This training affords an excellent opportunity of restoring 
the balance of strength between two wings, one of Avhieh is 
stronger than the other; as also between principle branches 
on the same wing, where the sap does not circulate equally. 
To attain this end it is sufficient either to nail the stronger 
part closely against the Avail to hinder its groAvth, or to give 
greater liberty to the feeble part; so that, being more freely 
surrounded with air, the vigorous development of its shoots 
may be promoted. These two means may be employed 
separately or combined, according to circumstances. Some¬ 
times we even bring the weak side forward from four to 
eight inches from the Avail, supporting it by props placed for 
that purpose; and when the equilibrium is restored it is 
put back in its place. This method must only be adopted 
when there is no longer any fear of frost. 
Again, in training the branches of the Peach tree, we can 
fasten the weak part more vertically and the strong more 
horizontally. The sap consequently flows with greater force 
