THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY 
[Most gardeners prefer a somewhat shady place for their 
Camellias out of doors, as a fierce sun browns, if it does not 
otherwise injure, their leaves. A situation against an east 
wall is very good, and where the full force of even the morn¬ 
ing sun does not strike them. What a plant will bear while 
exposed to one continuous mode of culture, and what is 
desirable when under glass above litter, and in the open air 
again, are different things. The yellowing and parting with 
some of its leaves in summer are as natural for a Camellia 
as for a Laurel or other evergreen—one of the things, in 
fact, that make evergreens troublesome in fine-dressed 
grounds in summer.] 
RAISING VERBENAS FROM SEED.—CLINTONIA 
PULCHELLA AS A VASE PLANT. 
“ ‘ W. W.,’an amateur gardener, thinks of planting several 
large beds of Verbenas next year, and would prefer raising 
his plants from seed if convenient. He would therefore feel 
obliged if you can inform him whether there would be any 
difficulty in so doing by means of an ordinary hotbed (he 
has no greenhouse), in the same way as other half-hardy 
things, such as Linum grandiflorum veritm , Salpiglossis, &c. 
Not hearing of any of his neighbours being in the habit of 
obtaining plants by this means he is under the impression 
that there may, perhaps, be some particular difficulty in 
Accomplishing this that he is not aware of. 
“ In a recent number you have an article on plants 
suitable for culture in vases, and I perceive you omit one 
very beautiful plant from the list of likely subjects, the 
Clintonia pulchella. The writer has- tried it successfully, and 
he never saw any vase such a mass of beautiful bloom, and 
so close to the surface is it that the wind has very little 
effect upon it. He used rich soil and plenty of water.” 
[There is no difficulty in raising Verbenas from seed 
provided you can obtain it good. As you have a frame 
you should make up a gentle hotbed about the end of 
February, and as soon as the heat is sweet and moderate 
you may sow the seeds of your Verbenas either in pots 
or shallow seed-pans. When the seedlings come up you 
should prick them out in pans or shallow boxes, and gradually 
inure them to bear the open air. Towards the middle of 
May you may plant them out in your large beds. Of course, 
you are aware that your beds will have all the colours of the 
rainbow (excepting, probably, yellow), and will therefore be 
all alike in that respect. One thing is possible—you may 
obtain some new and improved varieties, otherwise we 
think your beds will not be very interesting. 
No doubt the Clintonia pulchella would be a good addition to 
our list of plants for vases; but it requires to be raised first 
in a hotbed, which everybody does not possess. We are 
obliged, however, by your notice of it, and should be glad if 
all our correspondents would furnish us with similar in¬ 
formation.] 
WHITE BEDDING PLANT. 
“ In The Cottage Gardener, page 253, James Thomp¬ 
son asks for the best white bedding plant. In reply 1 have 
found that the best for a white bed is the double J Pyrethrmn, 
or Feverfew. Mine makes a bed as white as snow, and the 
plant is easy to grow, needing no protection in winter. 
Leave it in the bed, and it will come up as thickly and bloom 
as early as anything we have for a bed, and it will last until 
frost comes. I think this plant ought to be more grown 
than it is for a white bed. I have not seen anything to 
equal it yet. It grows one foot high, and mine is as double 
as the best Pompone Chrysanthemum we have.”— Hugh 
Howard. 
[You are quite right; the same plant, under various 
names, has often been recommended in these pages.] 
EVERGREEN HANGING PLANTS FOR GREEN¬ 
HOUSES. 
“ Will you give me the names of six evergreen plants 
suitable for growing in baskets hung from the roof of a 
greenhouse during winter? Those that will hang down say 
about a foot will be preferred.”— Pat. 
GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION, August 11, 1857. 297 
[Podolobium scandens, yellow. 
Hibbertia grossulariaefolia, yellow. 
Sollya heterophylla, blue. 
Kennedya rubicunda, brownish red. 
„ prostrata, red and purple. 
Billardiera longiflora, crimson. 
The above are nice plants that will not grow over strong. 
For commoner things that will show well in winter and 
spring, and grow from eighteen inches to some feet in 
length, we would select such as the following:— 
Hibbertia grossulariaffolia. 
Saxifraga sarmentosa. 
Maurandya Barclayana. 
„ semperflorens. 
Lobelia speciosa, old species. 
„ bellidifolia.] 
CLIMBERS FOR A COOL CONSERVATORY. 
‘‘Having a tolerably lofty conservatory, say about thirty feet 
to the ridge of the roof, I am anxious to grow some plants, ; 
chiefly in pots or tubs, which shall run up very rapidly. ! 
Would you kindly mention the names of a few ? I wish them ; 
to be hardy conservatory plants; that is, such as will bear 
uninjured a degree or two of frost if it should accidentally 
get in; for sometimes the weather will change in the night, 
and be frosty when there was no appearance of it the pre¬ 
ceding evening, and consequently no fire made on that 
evening; and then how terribly mortifying to find plants 
grown up into trees with great care and attention cut down 
at once. I wish for none of these, as I know there are 
plenty of desirable ones which will pass unhurt through 
such an ordeal. I want chiefly evergreen shrubs, bearing 
either a very showy or a very sweet-scented flower. I have 
Oranges, Lemons, Camellias, Myrtles, Azaleas, Brugman- 
sias, Chimonanthuses, Wistarias, and Jasminum grandifolium, 
a large leaf and very small flower. Be so good as to name 
some more of the sweet-scented Jasmines that will suit 
such a house, and Honeysuckles or Loniceras, &c. 
“ After that please give me a list of quite hardy plants 
which, growing in pots, will flower early in the conservatory, 
and will make a cheerful appearance or emit an agreeable 
fragrance. I shall be obliged, also, if you will state in what 
way the Eugenia TJgni should be kept from October to - 
March, having forcing houses, but no stove, or any pit or 
house where the temperature is kept up in winter except 
just to keep out frost; the same with regard to the Guava. 
“ Are there any very desirable stove plants which could be 
kept during winter in a window in a room where there is a 
constant fire day and night ?’’— Clericus. 
[The following are evergreen climbers for a cool con¬ 
servatory, and grow very fast and intermediate between 
shrubby and herbaceous, lasting many years, and getting 
over the roof very quickly :—Cobcea scandens; Maurandya 
Barclayana, semperflorens, and antirrhinifolia; Rodochiton 
volubile, and Lophospermum erubescens. The following are 
hardier still and more shrubby, but slower in growing:— 
Clematis odorata, cserulea, and Sieboldii. The following 
will grow rapidly and be somewhat shrubby : — Dolichos 
lignosus, Passiflora coerulea and cserulea racemosa, Lonicera 
Japonica, Jasminum revolutum and gracile, and Sollya 
heterophylla. 
Lists of hardy plants that will flower early in the con¬ 
servatory you will find in a late number, such as Wallflowers, 
Deutzias, Weigelas, &c. 
Eugenia TJgni. —Any cool house will suit it in winter 'where 
many degrees of frost would not enter, and any house not 
kept hot will do for it in summer. The Guava is easily 
managed, but when we had it under our care we never 
allowed it to bo frosted in winter. If frost is excluded both 
plants will do well in a Peach house or a vinery where there 
lias not been much artificial heat. 
We have no knowledge of stove plants that could be kept ! 
in a window in winter, except those that die down to bulbs | 
or tubers, such as Achimenes and Gesnera, and, having 1 
forcing houses in summer, we see nothing to prevent you 
keeping these in a cupboard in the kitcljen in winter, and 
setting them agoing when you commence forcing.] 
