THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, October 0. 1857, 
the end of October, is deserving of consideration. In 
most cases abundance of new fibres are created, which 
are of much benefit to the tree after that removal. 
As to pruning matters much may be performed in 
early autumn from the beginning of October. Now, it 
should be well understood that the effects of early 
pruning judiciously performed are to cause the subjects 
to grow stronger in the ensuing spring. Therefore, 
whenever reasons exist for increasing the strength of 
trees, shrubs, or bushes, this practice may be carried out. 
As to kitchen-garden affairs the fruits may be taken 
| in their order. The foliage of our bush fruits is soon 
on the decay, even in the end of September in ordinary 
occasions; it is, however, scarcely advisable to com¬ 
mence operations so soon. During any part of October, 
however, such operations may proceed, and the chief 
point is to take them in order; that is to say, as 
the foliage begins to fall. There are many, however, 
which it is not expedient to prune until spring, on 
account of the blossom-buds. Some things are late in 
j showing the real character of the bloom-buds; for 
instance, the Apricot, Plums of some kinds, and, indeed, 
most of those which bear occasionally on the young 
wood, or wood of a half-spur character. The principles 
of pruning are few and simple, and it is really 
astonishing what difficulties seem to present themselves 
to many persons. Last spring a certain gentleman of 
some note, who likes to play the amateur and to 
I superintend his own garden, called on me to have an 
explanation of Peach pruning, and brought a gardener 
| (?) with him; but it seemed almost impossible to 
convey a correct idea of what was requisite to the 
gardener; and as to his employer, strange to say, I 
had explained to him repeatedly the grounds of pro¬ 
cedure in bygone years; but, although a talented gentle¬ 
man, he could not easily comprehend it. Now, to those 
amateur gentlemen who desire to prune, or learn to 
prune, I suggest a classification of the habits of their 
fruit trees to begin with; for instance, the following 
bear on the young shoots of the preceding year:— 
Peaches, Nectarines, Vines, Figs, Morello Cherries, 
Gooseberries, Black Currants, Raspberries. I do not 
wish it to be understood that they bear on this alone, 
but that with such bearing on spurs is the exception. 
Now, the following bear on spurs:—Pears, Plums, 
Cherries, Apples, Red and White Currants. Here, 
again, I would observe that although some kinds may 
bear ou the young shoots, yet such is the exception in 
i about a like ratio to the former. In pruning, then, it 
is plain the objects must be kept separately. 
Be all this as it may, there are two other points or 
principles in pruning which require a few remarks. 
These are “ thinning out” and “ shortening back”—the 
first, above all, an important matter. In ordinary 
cases without this thinning out fruit trees become 
crowded with spray, which is not only worthless 
but injurious, the consequence of which is that the 
quality of the fruits becomes deteriorated, and the tree 
ultimately exhibits a melauclioly spectacle as a cultivated 
tree, for it is of such I speak. It would be all very well 
to meet with a Crab or a Peach tree in its native woods 
in a state of suffocation. A painter may admire them; 
but suppose such trees standing in the midst of a highly- 
cultivated fruit garden, and the most unpractised eye 
would instantly perceive that their condition was in¬ 
compatible with the design of the planter. Plowever, 
therefore, primers may practise shortening hack, it is 
certain that the thinning out must be duly attended to. 
As to shortening back the most experienced differ; in¬ 
deed, there has been too much importance attached to 
this procedure. This shortening back should not be 
performed without a reason, the reasons generally being 
that the development of spurs is required, or that the 
shoots have grown too long to be consistent or to carry 
their own weight, or that there is a necessity for the 
production of more shoots to fill up the tree ; or, finally, 
that the tree is extending too far. In either case the 
operator must just consider the purpose in hand, and 
act accordingly. 
Whilst speaking of fruit trees let me advert to their 
planting as a special aftair, and in so doing I would 
point to the evil of allowing the roots to penetrate into 
an ungenial subsoil. 
Everybody almost has heard of that cankerous cha¬ 
racter of the shoots frequently evinced by trees thus 
situated; but there is yet another view to be taken of 
this matter, and it may be taken either singly or in 
combination. This view consists in the recognition of 
the fact that deep roots, although quite compatible with 
the welfare of some of our hardiest British fruits, does 
not befit equally our tender fruits. Even amongst 
Apples we have those which are termed orchard trees, 
and those called tender kinds; indeed, only look at the 
Newton Pippins of America. Can any one succeed in 
their culture against a Peach wall in Britain? But if 
there is a difference even in the Apple, how much more 
so in such a singular family as the Pear, in which there 
are all grades of hardihood, from the old Swans Egg up 
to the o\(\. D'Audi or Winter Efelis ? It is evident, there¬ 
fore, that, although our old orchard trees may endure 
ordinary subsoils, and he able to “ rough it,” yet such is 
not the case with our more tender kinds. The more 
tender, doubtless, the more pains are requisite both as 
to root and branch. Soils composed chiefly of fresh 
loams, of about eighteen inches deep maximum, will be 
found the best. It is well to observe, also, bow small 
a quantity will suffice. Four barrows to a tree, mixed 
with the ordinary soil, are enough iu most cases. 
R. Errington. 
SHORT CULTURAL NOTES FOR WINDOW 
GARDENERS. 
(Continued from page 342.) 
Fortulacca.— Sow in a pot under a square of glass in 
the first week of April. Keep it near the fireplace until 
the seedlings appear. Place in the window then, but keep 
close and warm, and cover if necessary with a bit of cloth 
or paper at night, or even, if very cold, move the pot to the 
vicinity of the fireplace. Be careful in giving water, or the 
seedlings will damp off. If very dry let the pot stand 
three-fourths of its depth in water for live minutes in 
preference to watering overhead. Prick out in patches in 
May, and plant out in pots or boxes in June, and either 
inside or outside of the window you will have a lovely sight 
when the sun shines. Let the soil be open and light, with 
sandy gravel on the surface. Save the seed-pods as they 
ripen. Heavy waterings and heavy rains are their aversion. 
Schizanthus retusus and porrigens are as useful as 
any of the group. For the balcony sow in the first week of 
April. For fine window plants sow in September, pot off’ in 
small pots, and keep in a light, airy place all the winter, the 
soil being dryish rather than wettish. In March give more 
pot room, or place three or four plants in a six or eight-inch 
pot, using light, rich, sandy loam, and draining well, and be 
careful not to over water until the new pots are getting filled 
with roots, and in June or earlier you will have masses of 
beautiful bloom. Save some pods of seed for next autumn, 
and then throw the plants away whenever they lose their 
brightness. 
Scilla.— The beautiful hyacinthoidcs is, perhaps, the best 
for the window, but every one of them is beautiful, and 
requiring little care except watering them when growing, 
and keeping them dry when in a state of rest. 
Sebum. —These are all hardy. Sieboldii would, perhaps, 
be the most striking inside of a window, and most worthy 
of its protection. Acre , with a little soil sprinkled beneath 
it, would soon cover any unsightly spots, as leads over door¬ 
ways, and cellars, and coal-houses. Jioseum, repens, Ac., 
soon establish themselves in heaps of stones or stumps of 
