■C3« 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, October 27, 1857. 
useful to many this coming winter. From seventeen inches 
to the largest size are those most liable to these mishaps, 
and new vessels are more likely to crack than old ones. 
Hence we may conclude that there is sometimes an in¬ 
equality in the glass, or some slight original defect, which 
a slight cause may develope into a fracture. This, however, 
is only to be discovered by actual use, and when a large 
vessel has weathered a few months safely it is often as durable 
under even rapid changes of temperature as those of smaller 
size. I ought to mention that Messrs. Phillips, 116, Bishops- 
gate Street Without, have greatly improved the form and 
texture of the bellglasses for aquaria by producing them 
in a clear white metal and a graceful convolvulus shape, far 
superior to the green, heavy-looking vessels in common use, 
and at a very slight increase of price. This was done at a 
suggestion of my own, for I always felt that the production of 
elegant vessels for aquaria at a very low rate would produce 
public good; and, considering how many thousands have 
been sold, we may infer that not a few humble folks derive, 
from the expenditure of a few shillings, a source of 
recreation and home adornment of a kind which must 
instruct both head and heart, and increase that love of 
beautiful objects in nature out of which so many refined 
feelings are educed.— Shirley Hibberd. 
NEW WHITE BEDDING DAHLIA. 
Mr. Dodds, gardener to Col. Baker, Salisbury, sent to us 
a new dwarf seedling Dahlia in full bloom in the middle of 
October. It was cut off at the roots, and stood nearly a yard 
high, and over three feet in diameter. The habit is nearer 
to that of the old purple Zelinda than any Dahlia we have 
seen; the whole surface was covered with bloom and bloom- 
buds. Our opinion of it is that it is superior to any we have 
seen for bedding. It is a double white kind, and named 
Alba floribunda, liana. "Why not give it the same name in 
English ?— The many-flowered dwarf white% 
SUPPORTING FLOWERS. 
Having observed some remarks lately in your valuable 
paper upon the best methods of tying up flowers I would 
mention one which I have seen used in America, which I 
think answers the purpose better than anything I have met 
with. It consists of a circle of stout iron wire, varying in 
size, according to the nature of the plant to be kept in 
order, from a diameter of six to eighteen inches or two feet. 
This is supported by three or four upright stakes of the 
same wire fastened to it at equal distances, sufficiently long 
to raise the ring eight or ten inches above the ground, being 
buried themselves about the same distance for steadiness. 
It should be painted green, which answers the double 
purpose of rendering it nearly invisible as well as securing 
the wire from rust. This apparatus costs little, is very 
efficient, and would probably last a lifetime if occasionally 
repainted.— An Observer. 
BRITISH FERNS.* 
We are very glad to welcome the third edition of this 
volume, for it is an excellent work and deserving of success. 
It is strictly true, as stated on the title page, that it contains 
numerous additions and “ new illustrations.” It is some¬ 
what too scientific for those who are not conversant with 
botanical nomenclature. Stronger evidences of the prevail¬ 
ing taste for Ferns cannot be cited than that this work has 
reached a third edition, and that a second edition of “ The 
British Ferns ” will be published in a few days at our 
office; This also has fresh illustrations and additions, and 
the descriptions and cultural directions are very full and in 
popular language. 
* The Handbook of British Ferns; being descriptions with engravings 
of the species and their varieties, together with instructions for their 
culture. By T. Moore, F.L.S. Third Edition, with numerous additions 
and new illustrations. London. 
QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 
I 
GREENHOUSE GRAPES WITHERED. 
“ About one-third of the berries on almost all the bunches 
of my greenhouse Grapes have lately become withered and ' 
sour to the taste. I imagine it arises from too deep a 
border. They have been planted five years, and are now in 
full bearing. Will you be good enough to point out a 
remedy for this ? ” —One anxious to learn. 
[If your Vine roots are moderately near the surface try j 
what drainage will effect if that is defective. If the roots 
have got very deep, in addition to securing good drainage ! 
raise the roots, and place them Within from six to nine 
inches of the surface, placing them in rough, fresh com¬ 
post, with road drift and lime rubbish about them, to 
incite them to root freely. The sooner you can do this 
work after the Vines are cut the better. Keep the border 
warm and dry afterwards, and your Vines will not suffer 
much next year if you do the work well. See answers to 
other correspondents on the same subject, and see a pre¬ 
vious volume for more directions.] 
WHITE BROMPTON STOCKS DAMPED OFF. 
“ Can you give me an idea what is the matter with my 
While Brompton Stocks?- Fully two-thirds of them are 
suffering from some apparent disease in the collar of the 
plants, or* as a sailor would say, ‘ between wind and water.’ j 
The part affected looks just as if it were suffering from the 
Potato disease , and smells bad when removed by a knife or i 
thumb-nail. Not one of my red or purple Bromptons are 
failing; they look so strong, as though nothing could hurt j 
them. This is the more curious as all three varieties were 
sown on the same day in the same soil, and have received 
exactly the same treatment up to this time, and yet I fear I 
shall not save a single white Stock out of the lot, as the i 
lower leaves of those I have left are most of them turning 
yellow—one symptom ©f the disease. The white seed from 
which the plants complained of were reared was saved 
last year, the red and the purple four years ago. Can this I 
have anything to do with it ? ” — Stockbroker. 
[Such a case as yours never came before under our notice. 
The White Brompton Stock we always considered quite as 
hardy as any other variety. Are your plants of the white 
variety more dwarf than the others ? Do their leaves touch | 
the ground, covering the sterns completely? because if j 
they do the stems will be kept wet longer than if they were j 
exposed, and consequently more liable to damp off. Your | 
question, What are you to do to obtain a supply of bloom j 
next Whitsuntide ? is a poser. All that we can advise is j 
that you should purchase the required number of plants 
early in the spring, and plant them in a good, sound, fresh 
loam mixed with old lime rubbish. The age of your seed 
has nothing to do with the disease. New seed would be j 
more likely to produce stronger plants, though we believe 
old seed is more apt to give double flowers than new. We 
should have been glad to have given you more satisfactory 
reasons for the disease, and might have done so had all 
your Stocks been diseased. If any of our readers have had 
a similar disease in their Stocks we shall be glad of then- 
opinion as to the cause and the probable remedy.] 
POMEGBANATE NOT FLOWERING. 
“A Pomegranate which we have planted against a south 
wall seven years has never flowered. What can I do to it 
to cause it to flower? It grows very well and looks healthy.” 
—L W. 
[“It grows very well,” and something more; it grows 
very much too well, and as long as it continues to do so it 
will not flower freely for the next thirty years to come. 
Except for the top leading shoots three to four inches 
growth in a season is the right standard for the flower-spurs 
of the Pomegranate in our climate. Take up your Pome¬ 
granate at once, cut away three or four of the strongest 
roots to within one foot of the root-stock, put a barrowful 
