80 
THE COTTAGE 
GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, November 10, 185 
the blossoming principle. 1 am here speaking of the 
Neapolitan Violet, for no other will iorce so successfully, 
as far as I am aware, in frames or pits. Let me, then, 
suggest a standard of temperature ; I will merely point 
l g that proper to obtain if possible. From the early 
part of November, then, to the end of Fobmery I 
should desire from 40° to 55° by day, and 34 to 40 by 
nmht But we all know that such precise conditions aie 
noli easily attainable: all X can say, then, is approach 
this standard as nearly as possible only do not let 
them freeze. But there is another feature attendin 
the culture of winter Violets which is of 
importance to any other condition, 1 is 11 . 
avoidance of damp. To this they are very liable 
especially after being shut up lor days, as m the case 
of snowy periods and those ot intense frost. And I may 
here remark that the more gross the plants are, t ie 
more liable are they to a kind of putrefaction in the 
foliage. This is to be particularly guarded against, tor 
it spreads like wildfire, and if not checked will speedily 
undermine the utility of the plants. Dryness ot the 
internal air of the frame or pit is, therefore, one ot the 
leading features in Violet culture, and must he promoted 
by all means in our power. This caution at once points 
to the reason why, as I stated in the outset, hut one 
watering had been given the pit to which 1 alluded. 
Therefore, to plant them in a tolerably dry or mellow 
medium, and to sustain them afterwards with as moderate 
an amount of water, is one ot the grand points to aim 
at. And let no man be alarmed at their looking dry or 
luisky on the surface: this is just as it should he, for 
the Violets are not merely blossoming through the soil 
they are in, but through a disposition which has been 
engendered in them during the outdoor summer culture. 
Once more let me direct attention to their ventilation: 
nothing requires more of this than the Violet. On all 
occasions, therefore, let even the very lights or sashes 
be pulled off in the daytime, providing they neither 
freeze nor receive any rain, or otherwise that there be 
no cutting winds. 
Lily of the Valley.-— This, although a common 
border plant, is a great favourite with the ladies in early 
spring, but it is by no means an easy affair to force it 
early. Strong crowns are indispensable, and these 
must he sought for by high culture during two seasons 
previous to the forcing period. The roots may be taken 
up in the end of October and sorted, selecting the thick 
buds with their roots as entire as possible, and reserving 
the smaller for succession buds if necessary. The 
strong roots may then be placed in pots as thickly as 
possible, and afterwards plunged overhead in cinder 
ashes, and removed to heat as requisite. A moderate 
heat suffices for them: from 60° to 70° maximum of 
bottom warmth, and an air heat of 50° to 55° will be 
better than more, as they are apt to draw, or grow up 
weakly. They should be plunged overhead in old tan, 
or any other light material, until the stems are fairly 
through the soil, and then the surface covering removed 
in order to stiffen the shoots. One caution here is 
necessary—they must not be exposed to light suddenly. 
When first removed from the covering their stems will 
he whitish, and it requires a week to inure them to the 
light, and this must be done gradually, or the shoots 
will suiter. Afterwards they may he placed in any 
situation indoors, even under the greenhouse stage. 
By these remarks it will he seen that a bottom heat is 
essential, and that beyond that they demand little 
except an immunity from the frost. The soil at all 
times must he kept moist; they abhor drought. 
Chrysanthemums. —These do not belong strictly to 
the forcing category, but they are in the main indoor 
plants, and most important in these days to the winter 
; decoration of the plant house and the drawing room. 
At this period they are, of course, all housed, and their 
growth having been completed, it only remains to offer 
a few remarks on their management through the winter. 
In the first place they love a liberal amount of moisture 
at the root, and liquid manure given clear is highly con¬ 
ducive to^size in the flowers, and also to their retention 
of their foliage. A very moderate temperature is 
necessary; with much heat they, soon go out of 
blossom. From 35° to 50° is sufficient; hut, although 
they will hear a little frost, it is not advisable to submit i 
them to it. A dry condition of air is indispensable; ; 
the least lodgment of damp on the expanded blossoms j 
soon rots them or hastens their departure, lo this end j 
it becomes necessary to use fire heat irrespectively of 
frost, in order that a liberal ventilation may he sustained. 
The decaying blossoms must be constantly removed, as j 
also decaying foliage, for when once a leaf has begun to 
decay it never returns to its green condition, if it be j 
necessary to retard them a little shading may be oc¬ 
casionally used; hut it must not be on for a long j 
period continuously, or the foliage will assuredly become \ 
discoloured. One thing I may name as of importance 
to the size and style of the flowers—the buds may be 
thinned when as large as pin heads. Ibis, however, 
must he done with reference to the kinds; some produce 
them thicker than others. 
Lachenalia.— This is a most interesting family of ; 
bulbs, aud well qualified to give an extra feature to the : 
plant house in early spring. There are several kinds, ; 
hut even the old L. tricolor is a most interesting plant. 
These bulbs, after flowering from February to nearly | 
May, die down, like Crocuses, about Midsummer, and 
until that period require proper care in order that their 
foliage does not decay prematurely. After this they 
are allowed to become perfectly dry in their pots, which 
may be laid on their side, if necessary, in any shed. 
Towards the end of August they will begin to sprout 
again, when they should be taken out ot their pots, the 
soil entirely disengaged, and the bulbs sorted; the larger 
put in pots for blossoming, the smaller potted for a suc¬ 
cession stock. Henceforward they may be placed in any 
warm corner of the greenhouse, and receive moderate 
waterings, for they cannot endure excess of moisture. 
I may shortly say more about forced or winter flowers. 
R. Errington. 
SHRUBLAND PARK. 
(Continued from page 35.) 
In general cases the first duty of a gardener is to 
provide his employer’s table with plenty of good-flavoured 
vegetables; the second in importance is plenty of good 
fruit; and the third is abundance of beautiful flowers to 
crown the whole. 
For want of attention to this simple gradation some 
really clever men have never stayed sufficiently long in 
one place to test their abilities satisfactorily. Of course, 
like exceptions to rules, there will be particular cases 
where this gradation must be modified to suit the tastes 
aud the desires of employers, though, if the gardener is j 
prudent as well as anxious, there will he an ever-growing j 
though insensible influence that will act relatively and 
eorrelatively upon the tastes and perceptions of both. 
Shrubland has long been so associated in our mind with 
the ornamental in gardening that I feel peculiar pleasure 
in noticing that, whatever prominence should be given 
to the flower gardens, conservatories, &c., Mr. F’oggo 
was resolved that fruit and vegetables were not to be 
neglected. 
In unison, however, with our present conduct in this 
matter, our few recollections of the preparatory work¬ 
shop will first he directed to the ornamental department, 
merely premising that we shall make no attempt to 
describe, number, or name the many houses and pits, j 
