THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, November 24, 1857. 
115 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
ROSE CULTURE IN OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER. 
(Continued frontpage 108.) 
In my last two papers on this so emphatically and 
deservedly called the “ queen of flowers ” I endeavoured 
to describe the general culture of all the classes of 
Roses, more especially directing my attention to situa¬ 
tions for an entirely new rosary and collection. I now 
purpose to give a few hints on what culture is required 
in places where the Rose is already pretty largely or very 
largely grown. The Rose retains its leaves much later 
than any other deciduous shrub; hence no pruning can 
be performed nor the ground tilled till the leaves are 
fallen. This year especially, on account of the mildness 
of the season so far, the Rose appears to be almost an 
evergreen. As soon, however, as the leaves fall all 
dwarf Rose3 may be partially pruned; that is, strong 
branches may be shortened in, and small twigs pruned 
clean off, of all kinds excepting the China and Tea 
varieties. Dwarfs of these varieties may be severely 
pruned, with the purpose of protecting them by some 
kind of covering, such a§ short litter, fern, or moss. 
Then, when all are pruned, rake the beds clear of leaves 
and twigs, and lay on a good covering of well-rotted 
dung. Let this be carefully forked in, and after that 
lay on the tender sorts a covering to protect them from 
the severe frost. 
No other care will be necessary till spring. Standards 
of the tender varieties should have their branches tied 
round with hay or moss bands. It is really surprising 
how much this slight covering will preserve the young 
wood of these tender Roses. Strong growers should be 
shortened in, and the small spray cut clean out. This 
half pruning will be of service to prevent the winter 
winds having so much power over the tops. See that 
the ties are all sound and the stakes firm. If any of 
the standards are weak and sickly the best plan to 
recover them to health is to take them up carefully, 
remove all the old soil two feet square, and bring fresh 
good loam, mixed with well-rotted dung, to replace it. 
Then replant the sickly tree, staking and tying it securely, 
aud give a coat of mulching litter to keep out the frost. 
Climbing Roses on pillars and walls should have a 
regular good pruning. Such as make long, strong shoots 
should have all the small wood cut away, the long 
shoots shortened in one-third, and then tie them to the 
pillars, or nail them in at equal distances on the wall. 
Varieties such as the Banksian Rose, that bloom on 
small twigs, require, at this season, pruning very 
sparingly. If the climbers appear weak and puny in 
growth take the soil away from the stems, forming, in 
so doing, a hollow. Fill that hollow with liquid manure, 
and let it gradually soak into the soil. It will be 
enriched thereby, and the winter-made roots will quickly 
gather up fresh nutriment for the trees, which will, in 
consequence, grow stronger the following year. 
The Roses in pots intended for forcing would also be 
benefited by an application of the same enriching fluid, 
and should now be moved under shelter; but I purpose 
very shortly to give a short paper on the culture of 
Roses in pots, and therefore I will say no more about 
them just now. 
It only remains now to fulfil my promise of giving a 
selected list of new Roses. I would advise all growers 
intending to purchase to order such as they intend to 
buy in at once, excepting the more delicate Tea and 
China varieties, which had better be left under the 
nurseryman’s care till March, unless the grower has a 
good pit to place them in through the winter. The 
season for planting out of doors, the soil, and after 
management I have already given in my former 
papers. 
NEW VARIETIES OF ROSES. 
* Marie de Bids, bright rose, with very mossy 
buds; m. 
Adelaide Fontaine , deep pink, extra large; a mag¬ 
nificent Rose ; h.p. 
* Arthur de Sansalles, deep rich velvety crimson 
purple, intensely dark, and well formed ; distinct; h.p. 
Bacchus (Paul’s), crimson scarlet, well cupped; a very 
: fine new Rose; h.p. 
* Cardinal Patrizzi, deep rich velvety crimson, intensely 
I dark; one of the finest new Roses of the season; h.p. 
General Simpson, bright carmine; a fine-shaped, good 
j Rose; h.p. 
Lord Raglan, crimson scarlet, larger and better 
shaped than Geant des Batailles ; h.p. 
Louise Mar/nan, white, tinged with yellow; a beautiful 
Rose; h.p. 
*Maflame Knorr, deep pink, with rosy centre ex¬ 
panded; flower large and double; its buds are peculiarly 
beautiful; h.p. 
Madame Masson, deep crimson purple, large and 
full; very fine ; h.p. 
*Madame Phelip, deep flesh colour, large, and very 
double; fine form; a delicious, lovely flower; h.p. 
* Mademoiselle Leroy, delicate rose, large, reflexed, 
j and double; very beautiful; h.p. 
Prince Imperial, dark shaded rose, deeper in the 
centre ; immense size and good quality ; h.p. 
Toujours Fleuri, rosy crimson, shaded with violet, 
: large and full; very fine variety, but of a rather delicate 
: habit; h.p. 
Imperatrice Eugenie, rosy blush, with deeper colour 
in the centre ; a superb Rose ; b. 
Louise de Savoie, lemon yellow, large and double; 
superb ; t. 
Melanie Oger , yellowish white, with deeper centre; 
very large and double ; t. 
Melanie Willermosz, white, with salmon centre; 
good; t. 
*Madame Schulz, canary centre, shaded with carmine, 
fragrant, and very double; extra; n. 
Miss Gray (Paul’s), yellow; very excellent; n. 
Triomphe des Rennes, yellow canary, very double, and 
' a most superior variety. 
All good, but those marked with an asterisk are the 
best. * 
Abbreviations. — M. Moss. H.P. Hybrid Perpetual. 
B. Bourbon. T. Tea-scented. N. Noisette. 
T. Appleby. 
PLANTING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES. 
I am about to transplant some Apple trees from a deep, 
stiff, rather damp soil to a newly-made garden; soil, a good 
mellow loam, about eighteen inches deep, resting on a thin 
bed, say about three inches, of marly clay, which again rests 
on sand. I have cut my garden walks through the clay, anti 
filled up with stones, so as to form a drain. They are dwarf 
trees on Paradise stocks, hut rather overgrown, being ten to 
twelve feet high, and, from my having been from home in 
summer, have missed the proper pruning. 
I propose planting over a flagstone about a yard square. 
How deep should this he under the surface? [About two 
feet.] 
Should the clay be excavated, and broken stones filled in, 
so as to form a drain under the tree ? [Yes.] 
Should I cut back and thin the branches to the size I 
wish the trees to be ? and should that be done at the time 
of transplanting, or before or after it? and when should 1 
transplant ? [Prune after transplanting, and transplant any 
time between now and next March.] 
I have a Black Hamburgh Vine , which, being an old 
friend, I wish to transplant. It has been growing in the 
open border on the front of a house for ten years. Will it 
bear transplanting ? [Yes, well.]— An Amateur. 
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