THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, December 15, 1857. 
161 
no old garden about Windsor where a plant exists 
from the royal garden, which was, probably, levelled 
down when the present garden was made F , Mr. 
Ingram must recollect the Windsor JEsperiones , and 
what came of them at last. D. Deaton. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
THE PHLOX. 
Most of the writers in The Cottage Gardener 
strongly recommend the Phlox for flower gardens ; yet 
I seldom meet with a good collection well managed. 
| I think there is no class of herbaceous plants so well 
adapted for general cultivation. To show them off to 
the greatest advantage, they require to be grown in 
masses, so that each variety may have space enough 
to display its beauty. I see them in most gardens 
l grown in single clumps, scattered amongst other 
flowers or shrubs. Here they remain year after year, 
the side shoots spreading more and more in search of 
nutriment from the centre, till that perishes, and the. 
plants become unsightly, sick, and weak. In order, 
as far as lies within my power, to redeem these lovely 
flowers from such gross neglect, I purpose to give a 
course of culture, together with hints for grouping, 
and a list of the best kinds known at present. 
The Phlox has been greatly improved of late years. 
New varieties of superior form, size, and colour have 
been raised from seeds. I apprehend, however, that 
these varieties will not come true again from seed ; 
and, therefore, to preserve any good seedling, it must 
be propagated from cuttings or division. It will be 
necessary to arrange my instructions in some order, 
so that they may be more readily understood and 
stored up in the memory. 
1st. Soil and Situation .—Such kinds of Phlox as I 
! am recommending are perfectly hardy, and easy to 
cultivate. The best soil for these is a rather strong 
j loam, well mixed with sand, and enriched with decayed 
leaves and hotbed dung. The ground should be well 
drained, and trenched eighteen inches deep, then well 
mixed with the sand and manure. It will be improved 
greatly if it be laid up in ridges, or very roughly dug, 
in the autumn, and allowed to lay so till spring. The 
situation should be neither very high, nor very low; 
I and the plants must be sheltered from high winds. 
Shelters of evergreens at a few yards’ distance will be 
the best of all protection from high, boisterous winds. 
The aspect is not of much importance, but that facing 
the east is to be preferred ; because the south is too 
hot, the west too windy, and the north too cold. Of 
course, protection will modify any of these aspects, 
providing the sun has free access to the Phlox garden 
on east, west, and north aspects. 
2nd. Propagation. —Phloxes may be increased three 
ways : by seed, by cuttings, and by division. 
By seeds: To raise new and improved varieties, 
seed must be resorted to. The raiser had better by 
far save the seed himself; ho should choose the best- 
formed and brightest-coloured varieties to save seed 
from. In this class of florists’ flowers there is great 
room for improvement. We have no scarlet ones, no 
pure yellow, no blue, and no purple, nor yet dark 
moreen; yet I am fully persuaded these colours 
might all be obtained by diligence and perseverance. 
As soon as the seed is ripe it ought to be gathered im¬ 
mediately, or it Mill be scattered, as the seed vessel is 
an open one. As it will be autumn before the seed is 
ripe, it will be wise to save the seed till spring. 
Clean it well from the husks, and put it in paper, in a 
drawer in a dry room till it is wanted. Though the 
Phlox is hardy, it will be advisable to sow the seeds 
in shallow wide pans, placed upon a gentle hotbed in 
March. They will soon come up, and then should be 
gradually inured to bear the open air. If time and 
space will allow, it will be a good plan to prick out 
the seedlings as soon as they can be handled, in similar 
pans or shallow boxes, filled with light compost firmly 
pressed down. Give each plant an inch square to 
grow in and establish itself. Place such paus or boxes 
under a cold frame or pit; give water when required, 
and plenty of air on all favourable occasions. Whilst 
these seedlings are growing and acquiring strength, let 
a piece of ground be prepared for their reception ; lay 
it out in three-feet beds, with a-foot-and-a-half walks 
between. Enrich it with a compost of decayed leaves, 
dung, and sand. Then, as soon as the weather is mild, 
and the plants strong enough, bring them out, and 
transplant them into the beds. Plant them in rows 
across the beds, five inches apart, and about four 
inches from plant to plant in the rows. Give water if 
the weather be dry ; and look after slugs and grubs, 
and other vermin, and destroy them. Then, in autumn, 
you may expect some to bloom. Mark those carefully 
that are of a circular form, petals flat, and head of 
flowers compact. Y r ou can scarcely judge the average 
height they will grow, till the following year. The 
most useful height is from a foot to a foot and a half. 
Taller growers, though, if good in other points, must 
not be despised, they are always useful as shrubbery 
ornaments. Any flowers that may come in the beds of 
seedlings that are small, with pointed petals, and bad, 
indistinct colour, pull up and throw away at once; 
they are not worth even giving away. As the blooms 
open, name each variety to be saved, describe the 
colour, form, height, and habit in your garden book, 
and take care of plants so named. 
The safest plan is to take them up as soon as they 
have finished blooming, and keep them under a cool 
shelter till spring. T. Appleby. 
(To be continued.) 
CLAY-CROSS VILLAGE GARDEN 
EXHIBITION. 
I. Object ancl Funds. To encourage useful and ornamental 
gardening, and promote habits of industry, and domestic 
tastes, among the working classes. 
It is supported by the subscriptions of Members, the dona¬ 
tions of friends, and the money received at the doors for 
admission on show-days. 
II. The Society consists of such inhabitants of the above 
district, together with those of the neighbouring districts of 
Normanton, Calow, and Wingerworth, as subscribe to its 
funds, and agree to be bound by its rules ; and is managed by 
a Committee chosen equally from among the Honorary and 
Ordinary Members. 
III. The Member's are of two classes. 1st, Honorary 
Members, who subscribe five shillings or more yearly. (These 
need not be residents ; and while they are invited to become 
Exhibiters, it is not intended that they shall receive prizes in 
money from the Society’s funds.) 2nd, Ordinary Members. 
Those who pay one shilling yearly to the fluids of the Society. 
Subscriptions are due on the 1st of May ; and if not paid 
by any Member within a fortnight of the show-day, such 
Member will be disqualified from showing on that day. 
IV. The Show-days are two every year. The first in the 
beginning of July. The second about the middle of Septem¬ 
ber. The day of each Show is fixed according to the for¬ 
wardness of the season, of which due notice is given. 
The Shows are held, by permission, in the field near the 
private road leading to Hasland Hall. 
Y. Specimens. All specimens shown for the purpose of 
gaining any prize, must really belong to the Members showing 
them ; and must have been raised by him, or must have been ? 
in his possession at least two months before the Show. 
Any Member exhibiting specimens contrary to this rule 
will not only forfeit all claim to any prize awarded, but be 
j declared incapable of competing for prizes at any future time. 
